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DPChallenge Forums >> Photography Discussion >> photographing artwork for show - size restriction
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12/05/2009 06:12:37 PM · #1
Hello,
I just bought a Canon 7d, and am going to use it to shoot a painting of mine for an art show. The requirements are to present a digital image of 4 X 6 inches at 150 dpi jpg files.
Can someone help me out, as to what I need to do to shoot properly. The default on my old Canon was 72 dpi.
12/05/2009 06:18:23 PM · #2
Using Photoshop's Image Resize dialog. I put in 4x6 for the document size and 150 as the resolution. Thus you need to resize your image to 900x600 pixels. DPI is a print setting to help you adjust the quality of the printout. So in essence they're really asking you sumbit an image which is 900x600px. A 4x6 printed at 300dpi(which will be a more detailed print) the image size would need to be 1200x1800. More on that here //photo.net/learn/resize

Don't forget to sharpen up the image after resizing. Even if it looks slightly oversharpened, that's ok too. The print will look good. And please remember to save your image(after you've done contrast/color corrections,etc) before you do the final resize.

Quick question, did they mention that to the be minimum quality of a file you can submit?

Message edited by author 2009-12-05 18:28:55.
12/05/2009 06:32:11 PM · #3
Wow, thanks, and, no, they didn't....usually submissions are at 300 dpi. I would imagine that they will use the CD or email attachment to view the painting submissions for jurying on a slide show??? I do lots of photos on automatic for painting refs, but I really need to learn to leave the automatic setting. For this project, though, is it OK to stay on automatic? Thanks again...
12/05/2009 06:51:58 PM · #4
Hi Carol,

If you're working with a tripod(which is so much easier, so you don't have to worry about the shutter speed settings) then I'd suggest setting the camera to P mode and set the iso to 100. Even 200 is great. So you get the best quality image, don't let the camera choose the iso. If shooting without a tripod and the light is good, you can shoot in P mode at iso400 with good results. I wouldn't go up to iso400 with a point and shoot camera but with the latest DSLRs it's acceptable. If shooting at iso400 , preview and zoom into the shot, if you find it a tad blurry... I'd really recommend a tripod or something you can set the camera on. Depending on which lens you use, that will determine the optimal shutter speed to use and check for. I'd reckon you'd want the very best archival shots of your work so shoot in JPG+RAW. Just so you have the RAW for the future and an easy JPG to work with now.

And if you're only submitting the shot for display on the PC screen, then please disregard my post about oversharpening. Don't want that ;)

Good luck with the show!

p.s.
Come to think of it. If you're shooting on the tripod, the best way would be to shoot in A mode. Iso set to 100 or 200 and aperture set to f8. F8 is usually the sharpest f-stop setting across most lenses. Shooting handheld and without knowing which lens you use and the lighting conditions, P mode still wins, as long as the artwork is standing perfectly straight or hanging on the wall already.

Message edited by author 2009-12-05 19:12:55.
12/05/2009 06:59:42 PM · #5
Originally posted by carolmcs:

For this project, though, is it OK to stay on automatic? Thanks again...


Automatic is fine for a lot of things, but if you're an artist, I believe it would be a good idea for you to learn what each of the basic settings mean on your camera, and go from there.

You already know composition techniques. Remember that the difference from photos and drawing is that while you put everything you want into a painting, with photos, you're trying to limit what is seen in the result to only what you want them to see.

As for cameras, depending on how much time you have, I would consider learning what the 3 fundamental settings (aperture, shutter speed and ISO) your digital camera has (if it's an SLR or expensive point-and-shoot), and learn to work with them. If it's a simpler point and shoot, consider what setting the photograph you're trying to take would most fit. "Am I doing a landscape, where I want everything to be in focus? Then I should go with landscape mode, or some other wide depth of field image", or "will the entities in the photograph be moving? then I want the action mode" and so on.

What sort of camera do you own?
12/05/2009 08:45:58 PM · #6
Long ago in a film galaxy far, far away, I did some photographic duplication of antique photos - with no "equipment". The things I learned are:
1) Watch depth of field - you want your whole target in-focus - so you need a decent amount of light.
2) Watch the lighting, so it does not create hot spots or patterns on your subject. Nice even lighting is your goal. My best success was sunlight through a larger window with sheer non-patterned curtains. That gave enough light to hand-hold, and diffused the light enough to avoid hot spots, etc.
3) To avoid distortion, your subject should be parallel with the film (sensor, in the digital world) - though this can now be corrected with photo editors.
Now, I'll admit that my "stand" was a bed - antique pictures there. I stood next to the bed (so my shadow stayed away from the pictures) and shot down at them. Orientation is not important, because you can rotate the image as needed. Also, I'd suggest shooting a bit more than your actual painting, and trim it down in editing.
You'll also need to figure out a solution if the height:width ratio of your picture is different than that of a 4x6 photo - either trim a bit off your painting or add a filler border to make up the difference.
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