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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> Do i need ultra wide?
Showing posts 1 - 9 of 9, (reverse)
10/19/2009 10:23:25 AM · #1
i have a d90 and 18-105mm mainly shooting landscapes. Question is how much difference is there from 10mm to 18mm?

there are no camera shops near here to try one :(

so could i please ask anybody if they have a spare second or 2 to stick a camera on a tripod and take a shot at 10mm and then the same at 18mm please, i know there is the thing on the tamron site but don't realy get a feel for it.

10/19/2009 10:32:23 AM · #2
What would you be looking to photograph with an ultra-wide?

I use mine (10-22mm) for landscapes and for real estate photography for the MLS listings. It is also good for close-quarters photography (kids around a birthday cake, shooting inside of a car, etc).

At the moment, I can't take some sample shots that you requested, but if someones does, they should do both a landscape scene as well as in a room (close quarters). The room shots will show the most distortion. On my 10-22, even at 10mm, I can control the amount of distortion. I am able to add just enough (distortion) to be interesting. I can choose to not have any, or I can really distort for a dramatic effect.

Here are some of my wide-angle photographs.


Message edited by author 2009-10-19 10:32:37.
10/19/2009 11:08:28 AM · #3
The difference between 10mm and 18mm, in terms of angular coverage, is HUGE: 18mm is 80% longer than 10mm. So the difference is the same as going from 100mm to 180mm, on the telephoto end, if that helps any.

Stand upright, facing forward, and extend your arms out to each side at shoulder height, thumbs pointing up. Bring your hands forward until you can just glimpse the thumbs in your peripheral vision whilst keeping your eyes straight forward; that's how wide the 10mm is, for me at least. They don't call them "ultrawide" for nothing :-)

When you use the 10mm on a tripod, you have to be careful you don't get the tripod feet in the picture, that's how wide it is...

Here's a Flickr page showing the difference, on an interior: //www.flickr.com/photos/ndw/513721257/

Hope this helps,

10/19/2009 12:28:47 PM · #4
wow brilliant thanks for that!

so the answer is yes, have been saying to myself what's the point of spending £400 on 8mm?

now i know and finally sorted in my head. Thanks!

As i've been framing stuff i would run out of space which i can see as a great way to use a lens like this.

problem solved not to find the cash :)
10/19/2009 12:41:07 PM · #5
If you ever feel the urge you can hire a 10-20mm for a week for £28 + postage in each direction from here (UK)

I used them to hire a circular fisheye and was very impressed with the service from them.
10/20/2009 05:22:52 PM · #6
that is an excellent idea!! thanks for the link
10/21/2009 11:32:47 AM · #7
Beware that the distorsion becomes (or can be) a significant problem when you go with ultra-wide angle. I personally don't go lower than 12 mm (angle of view eq. to 18 mm on APS-C sensor), which is already very wide.

Some people may appreciate the extra 2mm (between 10-12mm), but I doubt it is extremely useful for landscapes unless your subject is close enough.

There are plenty of lenses to choose from. Personally, I will go with the old 12-24 mm from Nikon/Tokina, or the 11-16mm from Tokina (I found a range a bit too limited on that one, but it is a very high quality lens).


Message edited by author 2009-10-21 11:33:09.
10/21/2009 02:39:18 PM · #8
You can get distortion-free images at the ultra-wide lengths (e.g. 10mm). It all depends on the subject(s) distance as well as the angle of pitch relative to said subjects.

I use the wide end of my ultra-wide lens (Canon 10-22mm) quite a bit for both landscapes and for home interiors and can usually control whether I want some distortion (and the amount of it) or none at all.

10/21/2009 04:42:00 PM · #9
Yes, a wide angle lens will have distortions. Sometimes that is the reason to use one- to emphasize a subject by having it closer to the camera which makes it much larger compared to everything else. But sometimes you just want to be able to get everything in and can't get any farther back from a subject. A couple of options there- use a wider angle lens or use the lens you have and try to create a panorama which you need to stitch together later. Sometimes that works nice, sometimes not. I love using wide angle. For my Nikon D80 I had a Sigma 10- 20mm and liked it. I thought I may want a bit faster so I later bought a Tokina 11- 16mm f/2.8 which I love and sold the Sigma. The Sigma is a good lens and one of the lower priced options for those on a budget- that is what made it attractive to me. The Tokina is more but to me is better in both build and image quality. But you could not go wrong with either. The Tokina is useful in low light sitiuations.

Hand held- ISO 400 at f/2.8:
' . substr('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_challenge/1000-1999/1056/120/Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_802657.jpg', strrpos('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_challenge/1000-1999/1056/120/Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_802657.jpg', '/') + 1) . '

As for using the lens, you can try to miminize the distortions a couple of ways. One is to keep the plane of your camera parallel to whatever you are shooting- say a building. Then it does not look like it is leaning so much. Second some software programs can be used to take away some of the distortions too. In Photoshop that is under Filters- Distortion- Lens Correction.
They are fun to use. Once you get one you will wonder how you got along without it.
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