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10/16/2009 07:37:25 PM · #1 |
Originally posted by Bugzeye:
I went out this afternoon and took some pictures, We had less than perfect weather today, Grey Skies and hazy. I thought it would be a good challenge to try some of the things I read in this thread. Here are the results. So anyone who has problems getting good results processing RAW files. Read this thread carefully and try it. Very helpful info.
Original RAW converted to jpeg and resized. No other editing done.
This is the edited version, Opened in RAW Then followed some steps mentioned here. Did a slight crop and leveled the horizion. Opened in PS 4 tweaked a few sliders and saved as jpeg. My goal was to remove the ill effect from the overcast skies and give the impression that it was a sunny day.
If you care to give me some critque, I will welcome it with open arms, ears and eyes. |
no critique from here but usually i am able to get satisfactory results from jpegs. I use jpeg 99% of time and think no reason to shoot raw.
I am not against using raw but what i am getting at is, after practice and learning one can do good with jpegs too.
Shooting jpegs is no sin, as it made out sometimes. (not blaming you though).
this is shot in jpeg on an overcast day
//farm4.static.flickr.com/3080/3120396168_5256abe3f3_b.jpg
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10/16/2009 05:55:12 PM · #2 |
Originally posted by Hot Karl:
Also I generally shoot a stop or 2/3 under knowing that I can bring shadows up, but can't recover clipped highlights.
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It is generally much better to shoot so your histogram is pushed to the right, rather than the left. Digital cameras perform drastically better when slightly overexposed, producing near-noiseless images. Yes, shooting to the left allows you to be careless and get back data that might have otherwise been clipped, but it comes at the expense of detail in the image due to noise.
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10/15/2009 08:17:27 PM · #3 |
Thanks for the advice, also thanks to Trevor for the comment, this was somewhat of an experiment to see how far I could get with the basic rule set in mind so I didn't do any selective editing apart from some minor cloning in the upper left and lower right corners, If this were for a challenge I would have just did a tighter crop or perhaps covered those areas with a border.
The answer to your question is Yes, I did a little adjustment to the HSL. When I tried to boost the green it made the green rooftops look oversaturated so I backed it off til they looked normal, The green rooftops are quite dark to begin with as well (Darker than they appear in this photo) as are the trees on the hill, especially on a cloudy day.
I kind of like the darker green in the back because it gives nice contrast to the colorful houses below. I am going to re-shoot this next time I am in that area on a clear day and follow the same editing steps and see how much of a difference it makes. I will post results when that happens.
Originally posted by Hot Karl:
[
First of all, your hazy day probably helped give you diffused lighting so you don't have to worry as much about the houses being blown out. Also I generally shoot a stop or 2/3 under knowing that I can bring shadows up, but can't recover clipped highlights.
Did you use the HSL (Hue, Saturation, Luminance) tab at all? The greens in this photo are very dark, and if you click on the Luminace tab inside the HSL tab and give the greens, and possibly the yellows a boost until they look even with the rest of the picture. |
Message edited by author 2009-10-15 20:18:09. |
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10/15/2009 07:11:24 PM · #4 |
Originally posted by Bugzeye:
I went out this afternoon and took some pictures, We had less than perfect weather today, Grey Skies and hazy. I thought it would be a good challenge to try some of the things I read in this thread. Here are the results. So anyone who has problems getting good results processing RAW files. Read this thread carefully and try it. Very helpful info.
Original RAW converted to jpeg and resized. No other editing done.
This is the edited version, Opened in RAW Then followed some steps mentioned here. Did a slight crop and leveled the horizion. Opened in PS 4 tweaked a few sliders and saved as jpeg. My goal was to remove the ill effect from the overcast skies and give the impression that it was a sunny day.
If you care to give me some critque, I will welcome it with open arms, ears and eyes. |
First of all, your hazy day probably helped give you diffused lighting so you don't have to worry as much about the houses being blown out. Also I generally shoot a stop or 2/3 under knowing that I can bring shadows up, but can't recover clipped highlights.
Did you use the HSL (Hue, Saturation, Luminance) tab at all? The greens in this photo are very dark, and if you click on the Luminace tab inside the HSL tab and give the greens, and possibly the yellows a boost until they look even with the rest of the picture. |
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10/15/2009 06:34:14 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by AperturePriority:
Originally posted by Bugzeye:
I went out this afternoon and took some pictures, We had less than perfect weather today, Grey Skies and hazy. I thought it would be a good challenge to try some of the things I read in this thread. Here are the results. So anyone who has problems getting good results processing RAW files. Read this thread carefully and try it. Very helpful info.
Original RAW converted to jpeg and resized. No other editing done.
This is the edited version, Opened in RAW Then followed some steps mentioned here. Did a slight crop and leveled the horizion. Opened in PS 4 tweaked a few sliders and saved as jpeg. My goal was to remove the ill effect from the overcast skies and give the impression that it was a sunny day.
If you care to give me some critque, I will welcome it with open arms, ears and eyes. |
Excellent job, Brian! The final result is a very optically stimulating photograph. I like the colored roofs (which add great contrast to the green hillside) and I like the repeating pattern of the sailboat masts. |
I agree, definitely a big improvement. nice job! |
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10/15/2009 06:28:46 PM · #6 |
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10/15/2009 10:37:24 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by Bugzeye:
I went out this afternoon and took some pictures, We had less than perfect weather today, Grey Skies and hazy. I thought it would be a good challenge to try some of the things I read in this thread. Here are the results. So anyone who has problems getting good results processing RAW files. Read this thread carefully and try it. Very helpful info.
Original RAW converted to jpeg and resized. No other editing done.
This is the edited version, Opened in RAW Then followed some steps mentioned here. Did a slight crop and leveled the horizion. Opened in PS 4 tweaked a few sliders and saved as jpeg. My goal was to remove the ill effect from the overcast skies and give the impression that it was a sunny day.
If you care to give me some critque, I will welcome it with open arms, ears and eyes. |
Excellent job, Brian! The final result is a very optically stimulating photograph. I like the colored roofs (which add great contrast to the green hillside) and I like the repeating pattern of the sailboat masts.
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10/15/2009 04:17:09 AM · #8 |
I went out this afternoon and took some pictures, We had less than perfect weather today, Grey Skies and hazy. I thought it would be a good challenge to try some of the things I read in this thread. Here are the results. So anyone who has problems getting good results processing RAW files. Read this thread carefully and try it. Very helpful info.
Original RAW converted to jpeg and resized. No other editing done.
This is the edited version, Opened in RAW Then followed some steps mentioned here. Did a slight crop and leveled the horizion. Opened in PS 4 tweaked a few sliders and saved as jpeg. My goal was to remove the ill effect from the overcast skies and give the impression that it was a sunny day.
If you care to give me some critque, I will welcome it with open arms, ears and eyes. |
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10/14/2009 11:45:57 PM · #9 |
| Lightroom defaults to ProPhoto RGB so if you have not changed the default that is likely the problem when sending it to PS. |
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10/14/2009 09:43:14 PM · #10 |
Thank you for the responces. I don't remember what the Lightroom preferences were but if I opened the image in Photoshop after Lightroom and did some more editing there and saved as jpeg I still had the problem. I thought I was expording from Lightroom to Photoshop in PSD format. Anyhow, I have stopped using Lightroom to edit for now. I will probably have to try using the vibrance again in Photoshop raw and see how it goes. Thanks again for the help!
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10/14/2009 08:46:56 PM · #11 |
I really expected more people to run these types of edits in Lightroom. Lightroom is basically my workflow, especially with the addition of the Spot Brush + Auto Mask.
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10/14/2009 08:35:57 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by JeffryZ:
While on the subject of Raw- does jpeg strip out vibrance when it compresses the info? I had tried using it and got colors to where I liked them- only to look lousy in jpeg. I stopped using vibrance and do not seem to have the problem. For a while I was trying to use Lightroom so I could not say for certain if this was a Lightroom 2 issue or Photoshop. For now, I use Lightroom to download/ sort my images and use Photoshop to process. I was having all kinds of problems getting to jpegs from Lightroom anyways and am much more familiar with Photoshop so I gave up on trying to learn more on Lightroom. |
In a word, no. If you have color issues moving from Lr to Ps, then it almost certainly has to do with the way your color management is set up. Specifically, make sure Ps is set up to either use the same color space as Lr is exporting in, or have it convert (not assign)on opening. Preferably the first option.
It *is* possible to see some shifts on very saturated colors if you are converting profiles from, say, Adobe RGB to sRGB, since the latter space is smaller. It will not normally be noticeable however. |
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10/14/2009 07:51:51 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by JeffryZ:
While on the subject of Raw- does jpeg strip out vibrance when it compresses the info? I had tried using it and got colors to where I liked them- only to look lousy in jpeg. I stopped using vibrance and do not seem to have the problem. For a while I was trying to use Lightroom so I could not say for certain if this was a Lightroom 2 issue or Photoshop. For now, I use Lightroom to download/ sort my images and use Photoshop to process. I was having all kinds of problems getting to jpegs from Lightroom anyways and am much more familiar with Photoshop so I gave up on trying to learn more on Lightroom. |
Your problem may lie in the fact that ACR is a 16-bit editing program but, by default, it exports to PS in 8-bit format. You can change that by clicking on the file description under your image in ACR; whatever you opt for, I believe, becomes the new default until you change it.
R.
ETA: I see it may be more of a lightroom issue for you, I am only marginally familiar with that...
Message edited by author 2009-10-14 19:52:52. |
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10/14/2009 07:26:21 PM · #14 |
While on the subject of Raw- does jpeg strip out vibrance when it compresses the info? I had tried using it and got colors to where I liked them- only to look lousy in jpeg. I stopped using vibrance and do not seem to have the problem. For a while I was trying to use Lightroom so I could not say for certain if this was a Lightroom 2 issue or Photoshop. For now, I use Lightroom to download/ sort my images and use Photoshop to process. I was having all kinds of problems getting to jpegs from Lightroom anyways and am much more familiar with Photoshop so I gave up on trying to learn more on Lightroom.
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10/14/2009 07:05:02 PM · #15 |
Originally posted by ikopanas:
Ligthroom VS ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) any opinions? |
I hate the way lightroom doesn't let you actually move, delete, or organize files. My workflow is such that I upload to my laptop, edit, upload/print, then export to my external hard drive, and lightroom doesn't support that very well at all.
My MUCH preferred method is highlight all images I want to edit in bridge, opening them at the same time in ACR, going through and editing, then using the save all button at the bottom to export (usually to JPEG for output).
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Originally posted by Bugzeye:
Wow this thread has a boatload of useful info, I am still pretty new to processing in RAW and I learned something today. Thanks Everyone. |
It IS a hell of a thread, isn't it? Reminds me of the good old days when tons of these were floating around...
R. |
Me too. I haven't been around here much since the old days when I was asking all the questions, and now that I know some of the answers I figured it might be valuable to share.
Maybe I'll even enter some challenges for the first time in ages :)
Btw, I used to be known as "Mo."
Also, whatever happened to DPCfanatics?
Message edited by author 2009-10-14 19:05:50.
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10/14/2009 01:19:20 PM · #16 |
I can sort of remember them days.. :)
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Originally posted by Bugzeye:
Wow this thread has a boatload of useful info, I am still pretty new to processing in RAW and I learned something today. Thanks Everyone. |
It IS a hell of a thread, isn't it? Reminds me of the good old days when tons of these were floating around...
R. |
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10/14/2009 01:18:45 PM · #17 |
Originally posted by robshookphoto:
clarity: increases contrast of the midtones
vibrance: better than saturation; less destructive. raises the value of the color channels rather than adding more color |
Thanks, I was never quite sure what these two adjustments did. |
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10/14/2009 12:56:36 PM · #18 |
Originally posted by Bugzeye:
Wow this thread has a boatload of useful info, I am still pretty new to processing in RAW and I learned something today. Thanks Everyone. |
It IS a hell of a thread, isn't it? Reminds me of the good old days when tons of these were floating around...
R. |
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10/14/2009 12:38:50 PM · #19 |
| Wow this thread has a boatload of useful info, I am still pretty new to processing in RAW and I learned something today. Thanks Everyone. |
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10/14/2009 12:21:00 PM · #20 |
Originally posted by hankk:
Originally posted by AperturePriority:
In addition, many Canons have the "Highlight Alert" option, where the clipped regions blink when you are previewing the image in the LCD screen. |
IIRC, Highlights are measured on the JPG image, even if you shoot RAW. So even if you have a few blown areas, your RAW file may be ok. |
I agree since (even when shooting RAW), the embedded JPG file is what is displayed on the LCD. That said, if you have blown-out (or under-exposed) areas in a JPG, your chances are high that the RAW file will contain similar effects. Nevertheless, the RAW file will give you a higher probability of recovery from that.
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10/14/2009 12:17:42 PM · #21 |
Originally posted by AperturePriority:
In addition, many Canons have the "Highlight Alert" option, where the clipped regions blink when you are previewing the image in the LCD screen. |
IIRC, Highlights are measured on the JPG image, even if you shoot RAW. So even if you have a few blown areas, your RAW file may be ok.
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10/14/2009 03:46:32 AM · #22 |
| Ligthroom VS ACR (Adobe Camera Raw) any opinions? |
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10/13/2009 09:06:35 PM · #23 |
Originally posted by nfessel:
Originally posted by AperturePriority:
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Originally posted by gwe21:
This is really great!! I have a dumb question now. What do you mean by clipping. I probably know and am over thinking it.... |
Clipping is when an area of the image is moved beyond the tonal range of the histogram, either to the right (pure white) or the left (pure black). If you use an extreme contrast adjustment, for example, you can push near-whites into pure whites and pull near blacks into pure blacks, robbing those areas of any trace of detail; you are *clipping* highlights and/or shadows when you do this.
If you have an image, as shot, with clipped highlights, you can try to rescue it in RAW by reducing exposure, but when you do that you may clip the shadows. By adjusting the "fill light" you can then try to rescue the shadows from the state of being clipped. That's just one, simplistic, example. |
And on the flip-side, you can attempt to "unclip" highlights (blown-out areas of an image) by using the highlight recovery feature (Recovery slider), which works well in many cases.
Back to Robert's "fill light" recommendation--I find that after using this feature I usually have to add a couple of units from the "Blacks" slider to keep the image from looking too washed out.
Tip: to emphasize the clipped areas (highlights or shadows), you can click on the small triangles at the top of the histogram. The right triangle for showing the clipped highlights, and the left triangle for showing the clipped shadows. |
Alternatively, if you have a camera with a built-in histogram, you can look at your camera's histogram of the image. If the histogram shows clipping, adjust exposure and shoot again. Getting a correct exposure in-camera is often the best method, rather than having to adjust improper exposures in software. |
In addition, many Canons have the "Highlight Alert" option, where the clipped regions blink when you are previewing the image in the LCD screen.
Also, if you have a modern Canon EOS camera, you can use the built-in "Highlight Tone Priority" mode (HTP). The purpose of HTP is to minimize blown (washed out) highlights when taking photos in brightly lit scenes. HTP is said to bring out more detail and dynamic range in highlighted areas. The gradation between grays and highlights become smoother. According to Canon..."Highlight Tone Priority mode gives wedding and landscape photographers the option to boost dynamic range for highlights when shooting above ISO 200 – reproducing more tonal detail from wedding dresses, clouds and other light colored objects..."
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10/13/2009 08:43:45 PM · #24 |
Originally posted by AperturePriority:
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Originally posted by gwe21:
This is really great!! I have a dumb question now. What do you mean by clipping. I probably know and am over thinking it.... |
Clipping is when an area of the image is moved beyond the tonal range of the histogram, either to the right (pure white) or the left (pure black). If you use an extreme contrast adjustment, for example, you can push near-whites into pure whites and pull near blacks into pure blacks, robbing those areas of any trace of detail; you are *clipping* highlights and/or shadows when you do this.
If you have an image, as shot, with clipped highlights, you can try to rescue it in RAW by reducing exposure, but when you do that you may clip the shadows. By adjusting the "fill light" you can then try to rescue the shadows from the state of being clipped. That's just one, simplistic, example. |
And on the flip-side, you can attempt to "unclip" highlights (blown-out areas of an image) by using the highlight recovery feature (Recovery slider), which works well in many cases.
Back to Robert's "fill light" recommendation--I find that after using this feature I usually have to add a couple of units from the "Blacks" slider to keep the image from looking too washed out.
Tip: to emphasize the clipped areas (highlights or shadows), you can click on the small triangles at the top of the histogram. The right triangle for showing the clipped highlights, and the left triangle for showing the clipped shadows. |
Alternatively, if you have a camera with a built-in histogram, you can look at your camera's histogram of the image. If the histogram shows clipping, adjust exposure and shoot again. Getting a correct exposure in-camera is often the best method, rather than having to adjust improper exposures in software.
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10/13/2009 08:13:11 PM · #25 |
I am editing in sRGB and I still have that washed out look when I upload..
okay here is one I uploaded. How does it look? I have about 200 more baby photos to process through. this was just the first one I grabbed. I actually saved this photo for web for here.
Message edited by author 2009-10-13 20:19:23. |
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