Anybody ever move a 10-12' tree in their yard?

04/06/2009 04:50:41 PM · #1

More projects for me to do! :) I noticed that I have what looks to be a nice cherry tree smack against the south side of my garage. Nobody can see it there and I am going to be constantly fighting to keep it away from the siding. Basically it was a really stupid place to plant a tree.

Right now the tree is probably eight feet tall with branches reaching higher to about 12 feet. At the base it is probably 4-5 inches in diameter and at six feet high it is probably 2-3 inches in diameter. I should take a picture of it tonight and post it.

So I want to move it. Now I've moved small stuff before (rose bushes, etc.) so I know the basic idea, but I've never attempted something so large. I'm wondering what I should expect for the rootball and how heavy it will all be. Would it be draggable with a tarp? I'm guessing I'd actually have to do some lopping of roots and wonder how far away from the base I should go? Three feet to all sides? (the house is actually about 18" on one side so that should make it easier there)

Any advice people have from experience would be nice before I go wrecking a nice tree.

Message edited by author 2009-04-06 16:51:42.

njsabs

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM

04/06/2009 05:09:55 PM · #2

Hi Doc....we moved a 10' apple tree this winter. It was quite heavy...taking three men to move it. We wrapped it in burlap and moved the tree root-ball manually. We did call a tree expert to ask a few questions about the "shock" the tree would experience. The proper fertilizer is needed once moved too! We called a nursery and they were able to steer us in the right direction with the correct chemicals. The worst time to move a tree is in the spring, when it is beginning to grow. The best time is early winter....when no growth is happening. Can you wait until the fall/winter to move it? It will have the best chance of survival if you move it then.

EDIT to add: we dug a 4' foot diameter around the base, and about 4' deep. The root ball ended up being about 3' x 3'.

Message edited by author 2009-04-06 17:12:06.

Judi

Canon EOS-5D Mark III

04/06/2009 05:12:46 PM · #3

When we bought our house, there was a massive mango tree in the backyard. It was about 10 meters tall and the trunks diameter was over a meter. The branches covered most of our small backyard. We have a large house, so there isn't much yard space as it is. Because of the tree there was no grass....it didn't help that the previous owners chose to use small stones for the entire backyard, (not good in high 40 degree summers). The children were small and needed a place to play.

Quotes to remove the tree were in the $1000's and required council permits. Yeah right. Hubby (the determined Greek) got out a hand saw and a mates chainsaw. And over a couple of weeks climbed the branches and begun trimming. Until he got down to the 3 main branches which were over a foot thick each and hung well over all the neighbours fences. I remember at one stage he was in the tree with the chainsaw and he took down one of the main branches and the damn thing swang back into him knocking him off his perch. He was hanging there by one hand, the chainsaw in the other. Crazy fool. (no...he didn't believe in ropes or safety equipment.) I have learnt over the years, not to say anything...just let him go....it's less dangerous...lmao! The branches came down, covering all 4 house yards with wood and foliage. The way he figured...he was only pruning the tree....and pruning some more...and then some more...until the tree was pruned...he didn't just chop it down in one hit...hmmmmm! So therefore he didn't need that permit...well...that was his story.

We then brought the council in and they spent many hours chipping all the debris. We kept that for our gardens. We then had a bobcat brought in to level the backyard (they couldn't budge the remaining stump) and then new lawn for the yard. The large portions of the branches, we sliced in half length ways and we turned them into bench seats. When varnished they looked awesome and did us for many years. The stump...that became a feature in our new walk in aviaries.

A few years later, when I had no time to continue with the birds (we had over 300 at that stage) we removed the aviaries and attempted to remove the stump. We weren't allowed to burn it (against fire and council regulations), so over a period of a month, hubby chipped away day after day and finally removed it...leaving a massive 2 meter hole in the ground. We couldn't get a dingo (small bobcat)in there by that stage. But it has now gone.

I hope some of this info helps....in some way and shows you it can be done...but think about every step of the way...both for safety and regulations of your area.

Lydia

Canon EOS-6D

Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L Macro IS USM

04/06/2009 05:16:56 PM · #4

We just moved a twenty-five foot tree... but it was before the new growth started happening. We used a Bobcat and just got one 'scoop' of a bulldozer-sized scoop. I guess we got roots about 4' x 3'. We had the new hole all dug with some BlackCow in it and plopped it in. Had to support it with ropes so it wouldn't blow over. It's been in about two weeks now and leaves are coming on perfectly. We've kept it watered/damp ALL the time.

BrennanOB

Canon EOS-1D Mark II

Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di for Canon

04/06/2009 05:20:52 PM · #5

You might be a bit late on this for the season, you want to do this about the same time you do your hard pruning, in mid winter when the tree is as dormant as it can get, to minimize the loss of sap and reduce shock. Three feet all around will give you a lot of dirt, around 27 cubic feet, with a ballpark weight of 100 lbs per foot you are looking at a ton of soil easy. I'm not sure how creaky you back is, but just thinking about that makes my back spasm.

A few years ago I moved a 12' mature but spindly plumb tree and I basically did the following. Cut a channel 3 feet deep around the drip line, cutting every root. Then I used a hose to blast out the dirt from the roots leaving the roots pretty much exposed and then let it drain out overnight (sump pump as needed). Cut the remaining exposed roots with a sawsall that went deeper than 3' down and swaddled up the remaining root ball on burlap. Wrap the branches in a trap to keep them from getting hurt, the tip the tree over onto the burlap, and you and your friends (1-4 of them) drag the tree to its new home, a well prepared nest of loose soil and fertilizer. Carefully re-set the remaining roots and pack moist soil around them. Trim the burlap you can, but the reason you want to use burlap is that it will rot and is easily premeated by new roots and you want to minimize how much you scruff up the cambium on the roots. Make sure that the tree is pretty mounded since cherries like good drainage, and the soil will settle no matter how well you pack it down, and you don't want the tree's base sitting in a hollow in a few years.

Prof_Fate

04/06/2009 05:23:08 PM · #6

if it as tight against the building as you say you may have more difficulty with that than anything else.

The roots run out to the edge of the canopy on a normal tree so the rule is to trim the tree back cause you're reducing the roots upon transplanting. Now I don't know being against a building will change the root growth -a bit tap root or roots that into/under the building foundation, etc.

I tried to move a lilac last fall that is in the way of a driveway expansion and it turned out to be very rocky and hard to dig so I just buried the part I dug and figured this spring I'd try hooking to a truck and giving it a good yank - it comes out with roots or not as it sees fit. About 1/3 of the leaves are not turning green...so even not moving it killed a good third of it.

good luck!

Message edited by author 2009-04-06 17:25:34.

Fisher Price Kid-Tough Digital

04/06/2009 05:34:56 PM · #7

Thanks guys. Ya, I know I'm on the late end of things. There are buds on the tree, but few flowers (just one or two). I'm a bit worried about waiting a year as I'm guessing it will add another foot or two and make it even harder next year. I suppose I could do a moderate prune right now and leave it for next year. Maybe that's the best idea.

Bugzeye

04/06/2009 05:38:00 PM · #8

When I was a kid my dad and I moved a 15 foot oak tree from our yard at home to our weekend retreat. It lived there for 3 months then we got rain for a week followed by some 70 MPH winds. The tree was laying roots up on the ground when we found it. We tried to transplant it, braced it up with ropes and stakes but it never took hold, We ended up digging it up and eventually burned it. I think the tree might have survived had we left the ropes on longer the first time.

raish

Olympus C-2500L

Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D

04/06/2009 05:51:05 PM · #9

You'll have to move it next year (my inexpert verdict, NB). Do a cost analysis in the meantime. You can dig a huge great hole around it - not so huge on the garage side - and prepare another to drop it in. Could it be worth renting a mobile crane for the lift and drop? Some consultation with tree surgeons (or whatever specialist you decide on) makes sense. Like all 'good' professionals, they'll no doubt recommend not trying to do it yourself. Then there are questions as to how much you can do yourself and how little you can leave to the pros.

All in all, I suspect the high effort/low cost alternative of digging it up and moving it yourself carries a high risk of failure in terms of the tree's survival. The cost of getting the boys in, you might weigh against the cost of buying another tree. I think the best time to move it is just as, or before, the sap starts to rise - February, maybe, depending on where you are etc.

I've no doubt you've thought of all this, but I'm only too happy to shoot my mouth off :)

soup

Canon EOS-30D

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM

04/06/2009 05:53:51 PM · #10

prune it this year and move it when it goes into hibernation in the fall.

as far as cherry trees go - my parents place had one fall - stood 105' +/- tall and the trunk at the base was over 40" in diameter.

the tree guy that came to clean up the mess said it was the biggest cherry tree ( by far ) that he'd ever seen.

i have a 4" thick slice of the trunk drying - gonna make a table out of it.

the tree guy was sure to take a slab too :)

Message edited by author 2009-04-06 17:57:08.

SteveJ

Canon EOS-7D

Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS

04/06/2009 05:55:07 PM · #11

We regularly move trees and large shrubs at work. Most people think that because the rootball is trimmed everything will be fine.

Spring is the worst time of the year to move a mature tree. Leave it until Autumn when the sap is dropping. Cut a good wide hole and try to keep as much of the rootball as possible, hacking off the tap root at 18" will certainly kill off the tree. You will be surprised just how hardy plants are, but once you have the tree out, move it and relocate it as soon as possible, rootballs dry out really fast. Keep as much of the fiborous roots as possible as these are the feeders. The taproot is the anchor.

Prepare the new hole before starting so it is ready for replanting. Make sure it is big enough and has a good fertiliser dug into the bottom. Once you have moved the tree and got it in the new hole, backfill and tread in the soil to avoid air pockets and stake the tree until it has had a chance to put out new roots. And, this is most important, prune back branches. If you reduce the rootball, reduce the upper growth as the roots will not be able to feed the rest of the tree if left.

One last tip, get a few strong volunteers to help move the tree. A few beers and a BBQ help persuade reluctant helpers.

:))

Message edited by author 2009-04-06 17:55:32.

kirbic

Canon EOS R5

Canon RF 24-70 f2.8 L IS

04/06/2009 05:59:04 PM · #12

The best way to move it would be a tree spade, which is a big 4-part conical device on the back of a truck. Because of the proximity to the structure, it may not be possible to do it this way, but you should check into it, it will make your life *much* easier. They can dig the new hole with the spade as well, and you can back-fill the old hole with the ground from the new hole.
If you have to manually move it, the recommendation is normally one foot of root ball diameter per inch of trunk diameter.

04/06/2009 06:05:17 PM · #13

Originally posted by kirbic:

To complicate that, we can't get any vehicles in the back yard because it's encircled by a wrought iron fence. It's probably all going to be by hand.

kirbic

Canon EOS R5

Canon RF 24-70 f2.8 L IS

04/06/2009 06:10:50 PM · #14

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

To complicate that, we can't get any vehicles in the back yard because it's encircled by a wrought iron fence. It's probably all going to be by hand.

Uuuu-gly!
But I can sure understand why you'd want to save the tree. Make sure you have a grub axe available (sometimes referred to as a Mattock). Makes digging a *lot* easier. Here's hoping that you don't have too many rocks in your soil. I know that in our neck of the woods, I wouldn't even consider digging that by hand. We're sitting on top of glacial deposits containing lots & lots of rocks of all sizes.

Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark III

04/06/2009 06:17:46 PM · #15

Originally posted by kirbic:

Originally posted by DrAchoo:

To complicate that, we can't get any vehicles in the back yard because it's encircled by a wrought iron fence. It's probably all going to be by hand.

Uuuu-gly!
But I can sure understand why you'd want to save the tree. Make sure you have a grub axe available (sometimes referred to as a Mattock). Makes digging a *lot* easier. Here's hoping that you don't have too many rocks in your soil. I know that in our neck of the woods, I wouldn't even consider digging that by hand. We're sitting on top of glacial deposits containing lots & lots of rocks of all sizes.

By my understanding the neighborhood has a lot of fill dirt. There are definitely rocks as I can attest because I just repaird part of the sprinkler system this weekend, but they are fist sized and not melon sized. I've never heard of a grub axe. I'm gonna head over to the home depot site to see what that's all about.

EDIT: Oh, I have one of those. :) I just call it a pick-axe, although I suppose that's incorrect.

Message edited by author 2009-04-06 18:19:03.

GinaRothfels

Olympus 8mm f/1.8 M.Zuiko Digital ED Fisheye PRO Lens

04/06/2009 07:14:39 PM · #16

You'll probably think it's a crazy idea, but you could always try cutting it down to 1-2 foot high and turning it into a bonsai. The reduced height would make it a whole lot easier to move.

I must add I've never tried this myself (though I have a small lemon tree I may dig up), but there's a lot of info out there on the net if anyone wants to try.

Apple iPhone 5

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 ED

04/06/2009 07:22:14 PM · #17

I moved a 7' mountain ash from one side of the garden to the other a few years ago (I was having a wall built, and the tree was in the way) - It was Autumn iirc.

So I dug a large root ball and used a wheelbarrow to move it. Damn, it was heavy.

I used plenty fertiliser etc in the new hole. But, it 'missed' a year, no leaves, nothing. I was convinced it was dead. Then the following spring there were new buds etc. And now it's back to normal.

Ozzie

Nikon D90

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 24-120mm f/4G ED VR

04/06/2009 07:45:33 PM · #18

Any chance of just cutting the whole thing down, and making cuttings from the tree to grow new ones?

It sounds like it's more trouble than it's worth, with the wrought iron fence, up against the garage and so on.

Message edited by author 2009-04-06 19:47:44.

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM

04/06/2009 07:48:43 PM · #19

Originally posted by heatherd:

Well, that's the second option, but I don't want to lose a nice 10 foot tree if I can help it.

soup

Canon EOS-30D

04/06/2009 07:52:37 PM · #20

a sawzall could take care of the fence.

a welder could put it back together.

Message edited by author 2009-04-06 19:55:00.

NathanWert

Canon EOS-90D

Sigma 18-250 f/3.5 - 6.3 DC OS HSM

04/06/2009 07:52:53 PM · #21

We've never moved a tree, but we blew a stump up with some gasoline once when I was a kid (or should I say my dad did).

Pentax DA 18-135mm F3.5-5.6ED AL [IF] WR DC

04/06/2009 10:02:50 PM · #22

Here's a picture of the varmint. I think I will listen to the people who say it's too late to move it this year. Even in 24 hours the buds have really sprouted and the tree is probably needing maximal energy as we speak. I think I'll move it next January.

I know it's hard to see, but any guesses as to what it is?

I am, however, thinking of moving that little cedar next to it.

Message edited by author 2009-04-06 22:03:46.

fldave

Pentax K5II

04/06/2009 10:13:03 PM · #23

Could be a magnolia?

SteveJ

Canon EOS-7D

Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS

04/07/2009 02:46:20 PM · #24

It is a Cherry of some sort(Prunus), as to variety, can't tell from the picture. What colour are the flowers? Does the bark look like a Birch? If so it could be Prunus Serrula(Birch Bark Cherry)