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01/07/2009 12:59:09 AM · #1 |
| i have my camera in full manual, and i hit the little lightening button by the lens mount to activate the built in flash and it wont let me go faster than 200 on my shutter speed? |
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01/07/2009 01:00:17 AM · #2 |
The x-sync speed tops out at 1/200 Sec.
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01/07/2009 01:00:21 AM · #3 |
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01/07/2009 01:04:31 AM · #4 |
I'm by no means an expert, but as I understand it, the flash has a window of time to be effective, otherwise the shutter is too fast to capture the light and you don't get the full flash. I think I'm a little off, but it's something like that. You'll get dark corners/edges with a small bright spot if it went faster.
Message edited by author 2009-01-07 01:05:18.
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01/07/2009 01:09:47 AM · #5 |
Pretty well stated for not being an expert. That's exactly what it will do.
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01/07/2009 01:12:46 AM · #6 |
| thanks, you guys are cool! |
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01/07/2009 01:45:06 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by goinskiing:
I'm by no means an expert, but as I understand it, the flash has a window of time to be effective, otherwise the shutter is too fast to capture the light and you don't get the full flash. I think I'm a little off, but it's something like that. You'll get dark corners/edges with a small bright spot if it went faster. |
It's actually the opposite.
The flash is faster than the shutter, and because of how the shutter slides across, the complete scene is not lit for the entire duration of the shutter sliding across, hence dark areas. If you mess around you may find that you can sync with some flashes higher than the body claims you can without getting light falloff.
Strobist has a good explanation of this and some general info surrounding it, found here.
Also, what specifically happens if you use too fast a shutter is you will get dark "bars", not corners... the bottom third or so will be darker.
Here is another link about using this to your advantage.
Article/video here
Sorry for not posting this with my initial post... couldn't dredge it up quickly
ETA: for you Nikonians that may go to my second link, yes, the SB800 "overclock" or "diagnostic mode" is an april fool's joke.
Message edited by author 2009-01-07 02:11:11. |
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01/07/2009 01:56:57 AM · #8 |
Originally posted by smardaz:
thanks, you guys are cool! |
i take it back, derek is cool, you guys are not as cool :P |
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01/07/2009 02:13:07 AM · #9 |
Originally posted by smardaz:
Originally posted by smardaz:
thanks, you guys are cool! |
i take it back, derek is cool, you guys are not as cool :P |
Hahaha
Glad my coolness has finally been realized. ;)
Glad to help! |
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01/10/2009 02:19:51 PM · #10 |
| It was 1AM. It sounded correct at the time. Sorry. :) |
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01/10/2009 02:34:06 PM · #11 |
Even though you will be shooting with a shutter speed of 1/200 sec, if you are using the flash for the primary lighting, the effective exposure will be only the duration of the flash, which is very brief. If you are just using the flash for fill light, then you will be limited to the 1/200 sec for the exposures since most of the light for the exposure will be existing light reflected from the subject.
In other words, if you want to use the flash for stop action shooting, shoot where it's dark, or early/late in the twilight, or at night.
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01/10/2009 03:40:05 PM · #12 |
with the camera in manual mode and the flash ON. you can also adjust the exposure by adjusting the aperture setting. this will affect the amount of light the flash records. ( wider aperture - more light from flash hits the sensor )
adjusting the shutter speed ( at or below the sync speed ) will affect the amount of ambient light exposed. ( slower shutter speed - more ambient light hits the sensor ).
so you can use a combination of ambient and 'flash' light by toying with those two options.
i never use the built in flsh - so i am not exactly sure if it will work the same as with a hotshoe mount flash. but the priciple should hold up.
correct me if i'm wrong.
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