Help using my alienbee Light setup... i am lost...

Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II

10/02/2008 10:14:39 PM · #1

Hi, I just got an alienbee B1600, 12x36 softbox, vagabond b1600 power supply, and I'm lost... I tried some pics and they sucked... i was very unpleased with my colour studio portrait entry... the lighting is terrible... i know i can do some amazing shots with this setup, but have been unsucessful so far... I will be using it this weekend for my grimm entry and i want to take it out for some pics of random people around the town... BUT i need help using it properly... does anyone have any tips? i know how to actually Use it technically... I just can't get any good results...

These are some pics I took... but i really don't like the colours... maybe it's just my skin...

[thumb]727791[/thumb]

I want to be more creative with the lighting... are there any specific light setups anyone can suggest?

any input would be greatly appreciated... thanks

nsoroma79

Nikon Coolpix P7000

10/02/2008 10:22:48 PM · #2

Can you post a model of your setup? I have 2 AB's. I have a AB400 and an AB800.... and I do pretty good with that. :)

Mike_Adams

Canon EOS-40D

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM

10/02/2008 10:23:06 PM · #3

Well, I think for a one light set up these look pretty good. A one light set up will almost always give a moody look because of the shadows that result from having one light. If you want more of a "typical" look with a one light setup I would go Paramount. (Light at a 15 degree angle to model) The other question I have is if you have a cheapy flash. Firing that and the AB would probably give you much more of what you had in mind when you bought the light.

Based upon your past results you probably are far past this advice but I hope it helps.

Mike

10/02/2008 10:28:23 PM · #4

well, I have a sb-600 and an sb-800... I can use all three at once... I can mount the sb-800 on the camera, trigger the AB with a sync cord from the sb-800 and then the sb-600 will fire wirelessly when the sb-800 fires... now, with all three of those, how should I set them up?

I will try the 15 degree angle... good idea

10/02/2008 10:29:10 PM · #5

one more question... my lips seem so pink... is that just my lips, or is it the lighting?

Carl Zeiss 50mm ZE f/1.4 Planar T for Canon

10/02/2008 10:30:18 PM · #6

... and while we are on the topic... if I am using a dedicated flash on slave, how should I use it? should i get a shoot through unbrella?

yanko

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

10/02/2008 10:34:38 PM · #7

Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:

... and while we are on the topic... if I am using a dedicated flash on slave, how should I use it? should i get a shoot through unbrella?

Depends on what you are going for. If you use it as an edge light then I would use it without an umbrella. Lately I've been using two harsh lights (i.e. not diffused) for edge/hair lighting and an umbrella or beauty dish for the key light. It's been working great for me.

yanko

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

Carl Zeiss 50mm ZE f/1.4 Planar T for Canon

10/02/2008 10:37:02 PM · #8

Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:

one more question... my lips seem so pink... is that just my lips, or is it the lighting?

You could be picking up ambient light if your shutter is slow or picking up some bounce light from the walls. Are your walls and ceiling neutral in color? Also, you didn't drink juice recently did you? :P

Message edited by author 2008-10-02 22:38:27.

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II

10/02/2008 10:48:22 PM · #9

hahaha... nope, no grape juice...

ok, here is a test shot taken at about 15 degrees

[thumb]727799[/thumb]
.
.
.

The details of the shot are:

f/2.8
1/1600
iso 200

with a 50mm f/1.8

it's a D50 with an electric shutter so I can flash sync up to 1/4000... =) (don't need an ND filter...)

.
.
.

and here is the setup (you can see is you look the direction of the camera...)

MattO

Nikon D4

10/02/2008 10:51:09 PM · #10

Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:

And here lies the problem. I dont think you can sync to the 1600 at those speeds. Take your camera to these settings and see how they look

F8
1/125th
ISO 100
WB 5600
AB on 1/16th power and see what you get. Turn the light up or down and see what happens.

Matt

Message edited by author 2008-10-02 22:51:41.

Mike_Adams

Canon EOS-40D

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM

10/02/2008 10:54:55 PM · #11

I wouldn't suggest an umbrella till you see how it looks harsh (without umbrella or softbox) you also could consider a reflector for one or both of the sb's. My theory on pro lighting is this. You can read and read and read and what you learn hands on is what really matters. Book knowledge isn't as important as what you like the look of. General rule of thumb for me though is fewer lights typically equals more moody because of shadows. More lights you can use the more full and spread the lighting will appear. The bottom one looks really moody and I really like it from an artistic perspective. If I had those three lights I would use one of four setups. 1. and 2. Main light straight on and just a little above. Fill light on whichever side you want to highlight but at a lower or higher angle than the main light. For 1. use third light as a hair light. For 2. use third light as a background light i you have a cool background to light up. 3. Main light and second light at equal angle and third light as hair or background light. 4. Main light straight on and above and lights 2 and 3 at same angle from each other to balance each other out.

10/02/2008 11:08:43 PM · #12

hmmm... ok, lets get this straight here... i'm looking through the manual now... it says that the flash duration is 1/1800 at full power (t.5 method) and 1/600 at full power (t.1 method)...

i kinda see what you are saying... but what are these two method thingies?

it also says "When you reduce the flashpower on a unit, the flash duration actually increases. The duration gets longer by roughly 1/4 to 1/2 as you lower the power from full down to 1/32 power."

ok... now it's time to make up a cart to stick on the side of the flash unit... =)

SOOOOO when I fire the shutter at 1/1600 at 1/32 power, the shutter isn't actually open for the entire flash, thus messing up the lighting for the pic?

10/02/2008 11:10:13 PM · #13

looking back now, of the two pics I first posted, the lower one looks better, and that's probably because I had an ND8 filter on the lens and shot at 1/100... interesting...

10/02/2008 11:10:29 PM · #14

Originally posted by MattO:

Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:
The details of the shot are:
f/2.8
1/1600
iso 200
with a 50mm f/1.8

And here lies the problem. I dont think you can sync to the 1600 at those speeds. Take your camera to these settings and see how they look

F8
1/125th
ISO 100
WB 5600
AB on 1/16th power and see what you get. Turn the light up or down and see what happens.

Matt

Yup. What Matt said. I set my ISO to 100, WB to flash (or dial in AB Kelvin rating), shutter to 1/200 (max sync speed for AB's) or just below, dial in the desired F-stop (depending on what I want me field of view to be), then adjust the power of the light units to properly expose. With 1/1600 second shutter speed, your sensor is covered before the flash goes off. Shutter speed really shouldn't matter too much for portraits, unless you are dragging it for ambient light (as long as you are below the max synch speed).

-drew

10/02/2008 11:11:45 PM · #15

shutter duration doesn't have much to do with your problem, you need to look at synch speed.

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II

10/02/2008 11:13:35 PM · #16

the D50 will sync up to 1/4000 because it has an electronic shutter...

MattO

Nikon D4

10/02/2008 11:26:16 PM · #17

Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:

the D50 will sync up to 1/4000 because it has an electronic shutter...

I would say OK to that with flash, you are using a strobe...........two different beasts IMHO. Have you taken a shot with the settings I gave you?

Matt

10/02/2008 11:26:57 PM · #18

I think your sync speed is limited by the strobe unit. Paul Buff recommends a shutter speed for portraits with his lights (AB & WhiteLightning) between 1/60 and 1/200.

Message edited by author 2008-10-02 23:27:21.

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II

10/02/2008 11:37:07 PM · #19

ok... here is another test shot with the settings you gave me (no iso 100... so iso200 f/11)

.
.
.
[thumb]727812[/thumb]
.
.
.

Much better (under exposed a bit... )

MattO

Nikon D4

10/02/2008 11:38:23 PM · #20

Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:

ok... here is another test shot with the settings you gave me (no iso 100... so iso200 f/11)

.
.
.
[thumb]727812[/thumb]
.
.
.

Much better (under exposed a bit... )

There you go, now turn up your strobe power and watch your histogram, or use your lightmeter and you are set.

Matt

violinist123

Canon EOS-6D

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

10/02/2008 11:39:43 PM · #21

You asked about the two speed ratings. This is from the AB page on your 1600:

When a flash system fires, although it may appear so to humans, the light emitted does not come on and go off instantaneously. In reality, the flash tube 'turns on' very quickly and then dims gradually as the flash capacitors discharge. Short flash durations are important to prevent blurring when the subject is in rapid motion such as a pirouetting ballerina or a Michael Jordan slam-dunk. Flash manufacturers do not rate flash duration as the entire time the flash tube is emitting light however, because the end of the slowly dimming 'tail' does not contribute much to the overall exposure (or to blur). t.1 is defined as the time during which the flash lamp output is above 0.1 (or 1/10) it's peak intensity. t.3 you may guess is the time the output is greater than 0.3 (about 1/3) peak, and t.5 is how long it's above 0.5 (half) the peak value.

10/02/2008 11:43:03 PM · #22

cool! thanks everyone =)

10/02/2008 11:50:41 PM · #23

Originally posted by MattO:

Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:
Much better (under exposed a bit... )

There you go, now turn up your strobe power and watch your histogram, or use your lightmeter and you are set.

Matt

Or open up your aperature to let more light in and isolate your subject (self) with shallower depth of field.

Message edited by author 2008-10-02 23:50:58.

10/02/2008 11:54:50 PM · #24

also if coloration is a problem, reset your camera's in house settings (color, contrast, sharpening, ect) to zeros and play from there. And when using strobes set a constant WB either a Kelvin temp (like Matt suggested) or "flash" setting. and don't forget that reflected light is not constant, nor balanced (off white walls create off white light bouncing around).

Message edited by author 2008-10-02 23:56:45.