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04/27/2008 10:12:25 AM · #26 |
Left some comments. Only just now came back to read the text you wrote ... which answers one of my comment/questions about the light in the lower part of the eye.
Although the light on their faces looks fine (and in the end, that's what really matters), I don't think I care for the second light down low. I think taking that 2nd light and throwing it on the background would have solved your background lighting problems and if you still needed a bit more fill on their faces then a reflector would have worked.
In spite of that criticism for technique ... I think the images themselves turned out great. So whatever works. :-)
Good work!
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04/27/2008 04:52:32 PM · #27 |
Originally posted by breadfan35:
Set up:
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Oh, I'll have to get one of those reflector holders. It would make things less complicated if I only used one light and a reflector for now.
I was looking at this: Impact Telescopic Collapsible Reflector Holder from BHPhoto.
That or get one of those Potato Chip Bag Clips.
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04/27/2008 05:16:52 PM · #28 |
| That reflector, stand, and holding arm are all part of a kit my friend bought and let me borrow. The kit was only $100 at Wolf Camera and from the box it looked cheap to me, so I avoided it. But he bought it and I'm actually pretty impressed with the quality of it. I plan to pick one up myself. |
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04/27/2008 05:41:18 PM · #29 |
Originally posted by breadfan35:
That reflector, stand, and holding arm are all part of a kit my friend bought and let me borrow. The kit was only $100 at Wolf Camera and from the box it looked cheap to me, so I avoided it. But he bought it and I'm actually pretty impressed with the quality of it. I plan to pick one up myself. |
I have been looking to buy a refelctor stand/holder. Do you have a link to the one your friend bought? I will try and find one on B&H
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04/28/2008 01:40:47 AM · #30 |
Thanks for the comments everyone and David especially for going through an commenting individually.
Yes, looking back at them, I do like the ones where I had the second umbrella behind the model, and I'm mixed about the two catch lights. I'll clone the second one out as suggested. FWIW, I had the front left umbrella (main light) at 1 to 1/2 power, and the fill light from 1/8 to 1/16 power during the shoot.
In retrospect, I think it would have been interesting to stick a Lightsphere on the second flash pointed up and use that as a hair light and general backlight fill. That might have given better light to the backdrop while lighting the hair and serving as a backlight/hairlight as well. Anyone ever try that.
(I'll have to post a picture of my homemade lightsphere here--it works really well, better than the real one I had with my Canon, since I designed it to throw more light forward than the real one did. Though it looks REAL hokey--even more than the lightsphere itself.)
(PS. thanks for the cropping suggestion, David. I agree 100% and my 8x10 version is already cropped like that (but in some cases, the 8x10 version I cropped with my client isn't as good IMHO as the 2:3 out-of-the-camera versions, so I elected to post that set instead.]
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04/28/2008 10:24:00 AM · #31 |
I'd definitely like to be a part of this group...my strobist gear is coming in pieces but will all be here by the end of may or June at the latest.
So far I've got:
Three light stands (from hotlights I used to have)
One dual-purpose umbrella (white w/ removable silver cover)
430EX w/ 2ft sync cord
Sunpak 333
Here's what else I need:
At least one more umbrella
Another Sunpak (if i like the first one)
3 to 4 Pocket Wizards (this is the part that sucks, but I need reliability)
Oh, and about 1000 AA batteries.
Then my setup should be complete! |
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04/28/2008 08:54:07 PM · #32 |
Originally posted by KevinG:
Here's what else I need:
At least one more umbrella
Another Sunpak (if i like the first one)
3 to 4 Pocket Wizards (this is the part that sucks, but I need reliability)
Oh, and about 1000 AA batteries.
Then my setup should be complete! |
For what it is worth the ST-E2 seems to work quite nice and ifyou want to keep TTL from what I larned earlier in this thread is you might want to check into radio poppers instead of the Pocket wizards.
I also have tons of AA rechargeables. I think strobist suggested 2 sets for each flash. i have that now and would feel more comfortable with three sets. Also found this as well if anyone needs a better way to carry batteries:
//www.powerpax.net
We went and got the girls a trampoline yesterday so look for some night shots of them jumping probably by this weekend. I eally want to find a local skate park and get some skaters to jump for me so i can practice some of that as well.
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04/28/2008 09:08:33 PM · #33 |
Ok, back to my question-e :P
I am getting my strobe light This and my 34X40 softbox. also this week I am getting my remote trigger and backdrop (white) with stand.
Now am I a strobist? I think I am, no?
Can't wait to see what I can do with little better lights. |
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04/28/2008 10:51:31 PM · #34 |
Originally posted by James:
Originally posted by KevinG:
Here's what else I need:
At least one more umbrella
Another Sunpak (if i like the first one)
3 to 4 Pocket Wizards (this is the part that sucks, but I need reliability)
Oh, and about 1000 AA batteries.
Then my setup should be complete! |
For what it is worth the ST-E2 seems to work quite nice and ifyou want to keep TTL from what I larned earlier in this thread is you might want to check into radio poppers instead of the Pocket wizards.
I also have tons of AA rechargeables. I think strobist suggested 2 sets for each flash. i have that now and would feel more comfortable with three sets. Also found this as well if anyone needs a better way to carry batteries:
//www.powerpax.net
We went and got the girls a trampoline yesterday so look for some night shots of them jumping probably by this weekend. I eally want to find a local skate park and get some skaters to jump for me so i can practice some of that as well. |
I'm not planning on using TTL and I don't want to fool with IR stuff cause it's only line of sight. Also, won't work with the Sunpaks. It's also expensive for what it does. |
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04/29/2008 02:49:46 PM · #35 |
I am trying a couple of things with my current light setup to see how long I can go without having to buy more lights. Right now I use a 420ex and a 580exII. The 580 spends most of its time on my camera as the master only (I dont use it much as a flash other then to fire the 420). The 420 spends its time on a light stand with either one of my umbrellas. With that configuration I can get cool moody lighting with the 420 doing all the work. These are a couple of examples.
    
But what I want to be able to do is use a white background and have it be white rather than grey. One of the problems I run into is that the 420 can not be set manually. With the shots above its not an issue as the 420 is doing the only lighting of my shot. But I havent figured out how to set it up so that the 420 can light my backdrop and use the 580 off camera to light my subject proper (I have one of those hot shoe cords that can get my 580 off camera by about 2 feet). So this is what I tried. I have my 420 on a 45' angle and slightly above from my subject and I also have my 580 on a tripod right next to the 420 but with the bounce card up and the flash pointing straight up. This gave me a decent background and lit my subjects pretty well without losing all of the shadows that I like. They arent as dark like in the images above - but they might be workable. The only editing done on these was a RAW conversion, NI, and sharpen after resize (maybe some small healing on bruises or nicks).
     
I am open to any suggestions as to different lighting techniques for indoor studio shots using this combo of units. I am not in a position yet to trade in the 420 and pick up a couple of 430s (though I have considered just going full blown strobist style and picking up 2 or 3 vivtars and the strobist kits from Midwest and doing full manual). Any suggestions? |
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04/29/2008 03:13:35 PM · #36 |
Originally posted by timfythetoo:
Any suggestions? |
Those are wonderful. I don't see any problem with that setup at all! |
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04/29/2008 03:20:00 PM · #37 |
I use a similar setup. I usually leave a 580 on camera and have a 430 on stand. The 580 IS contributing light to the scene.
Which (after working on the bg a bit) yields:
 
Adding a second 430 (one one each side of subject) I get:
Or as a hair/rim/spill I get:
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04/29/2008 03:34:46 PM · #38 |
Originally posted by Bernard_Marx:
I use a similar setup. I usually leave a 580 on camera and have a 430 on stand. The 580 IS contributing light to the scene. |
Are you working in manual mode or with ETTL? I wonder if I would be able to use a 430 as a hair light/background light along with my 420 and 580. How do you set up your flash controls? |
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04/29/2008 04:02:47 PM · #39 |
Woooo, just ordered 2 of the Lumopro 6ft stands and a couple swivels and brollys from midwest... no more 4ft el cheapo tripods for lightstands!
A few recent-ish snow-strobist shots... lit with 2 sb800s, triggered via cls.
   
Message edited by author 2008-04-29 16:03:29. |
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04/29/2008 04:47:22 PM · #40 |
Originally posted by timfythetoo:
Originally posted by Bernard_Marx:
I use a similar setup. I usually leave a 580 on camera and have a 430 on stand. The 580 IS contributing light to the scene. |
Are you working in manual mode or with ETTL? I wonder if I would be able to use a 430 as a hair light/background light along with my 420 and 580. How do you set up your flash controls? |
I use ETTL. And yes - you could use a 430 along with your 420 and 580... although it would make more sense to use the 420 as the bg/hair light and use the 30 and 80 to light the subject.
How do I set my controls? I set the 580 to chan1 (it is automatically A). I set the 430s to chan1 (B) slaves. The two 430s then are treated collectively. I set my ratios A:B differently depending on what I want. Try to keep in mind that the slaves (B) are generally much closer to the subject than the master (A), so ratios must reflect that difference.
Edit to add: I have never come close to scoring well in a challenge... so follow any advice I give you with that in mind (!)
Edit to also add: Most everything I know about using the strobes in combination, I have learned by combing the threads. Search for 580EX, master, slave etc. Pay close attention to anything by David ( dwterry)
Message edited by author 2008-04-29 16:55:36. |
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04/29/2008 04:55:52 PM · #41 |
Originally posted by Bernard_Marx:
How do I set my controls? I set the 580 to chan1 (it is automatically A). I set the 430s to chan1 (B) slaves. The two 430s then are treated collectively. I set my ratios A:B differently depending on what I want. Try to keep in mind that the slaves (B) are generally much closer to the subject than the master (A), so ratios must reflect that difference.
Edit to add: I have never come close to scoring well in a challenge... so follow any advice I give you with that in mind (!) |
The advice I need is basically to understand how the flashes work together. Right now I am pretty much just flying on what I was able to do out of the box. I havent played with different channels and ratios yet so i dont really understand whats going on there. Now I have a project for tomorrow. Thank you! |
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04/29/2008 04:57:12 PM · #42 |
Originally posted by Bernard_Marx:
Edit to also add: Most everything I know about using the strobes in combination, I have learned by combing the threads. Search for 580EX, master, slave etc. Pay close attention to anything by David ( dwterry) |
I too read as much as I can from his work. I have learned some cool stuff from his details. I just know there is so much more to learn. Wish i had someone physically near where I live to hold my hand through some of this stuff. |
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04/29/2008 07:34:17 PM · #43 |
Originally posted by FocusPoint:
Ok, back to my question-e :P
I am getting my strobe light This and my 34X40 softbox. also this week I am getting my remote trigger and backdrop (white) with stand.
Now am I a strobist? I think I am, no?
Can't wait to see what I can do with little better lights. |
Simple answer "YES"
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04/29/2008 07:50:43 PM · #44 |
Originally posted by timfythetoo:
Originally posted by Bernard_Marx:
Edit to also add: Most everything I know about using the strobes in combination, I have learned by combing the threads. Search for 580EX, master, slave etc. Pay close attention to anything by David ( dwterry) |
I too read as much as I can from his work. I have learned some cool stuff from his details. I just know there is so much more to learn. Wish i had someone physically near where I live to hold my hand through some of this stuff. |
Whoa... okay, I'll admit I know a lot of technical stuff and am more than happy to share. But seriously, I wish I was even half as creative as you! It goes back to the "can you learn to be creative" thread. I think I'm better off today than I was a few years ago, but I'm scratching and clawing my way to the surface! The technical stuff only carries me so far....
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04/30/2008 02:09:32 PM · #45 |
Originally posted by Bernard_Marx:
How do I set my controls? I set the 580 to chan1 (it is automatically A). I set the 430s to chan1 (B) slaves. The two 430s then are treated collectively. I set my ratios A:B differently depending on what I want. Try to keep in mind that the slaves (B) are generally much closer to the subject than the master (A), so ratios must reflect that difference.
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The A, B, & C thing on Canon Flashes are used as groups. Say you have three flashes. Say A is your main light, Group B is you fill light, and Group C is your background light. You can make an adjustment to the light in B and it doesn't change anything with group A or C. And if you have more than that and set three flashes to "A" they are treated as one flash.
This comes in handy with a Canon ST-E2 Transmitter. You can set one to A and one to B and change the Ratio on the Speedlite Transmitter.
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04/30/2008 05:22:13 PM · #46 |
Originally posted by James:
Originally posted by FocusPoint:
Ok, back to my question-e :P
I am getting my strobe light This and my 34X40 softbox. also this week I am getting my remote trigger and backdrop (white) with stand.
Now am I a strobist? I think I am, no?
Can't wait to see what I can do with little better lights. |
Simple answer "YES" |
Hey  James... thanks. I was starting to think I am invisible or something :)
I am going to receive my camera attachment and wireless trigger this week, I can't wait to show off my work here :P |
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04/30/2008 06:02:19 PM · #47 |
Originally posted by FocusPoint:
Originally posted by James:
[quote=FocusPoint] Ok, back to my question-e :P
Now am I a strobist? I think I am, no? |
Simple answer "YES" |
Hey James... thanks. I was starting to think I am invisible or something :)
I didn't want to answer because I felt the answer was no... to my understanding, strobist is primarily flash based for portability reasons (not strobes, which seems odd when you consider the name, and so I think I may be wrong, and that's why I didn't answer).
If others think of strobes as "strobist" (and, again, the name tends to agree), then great! :-)
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04/30/2008 06:09:38 PM · #48 |
Originally posted by dwterry:
I didn't want to answer because I felt the answer was no... to my understanding, strobist is primarily flash based for portability reasons (not strobes, which seems odd when you consider the name, and so I think I may be wrong, and that's why I didn't answer).
If others think of strobes as "strobist" (and, again, the name tends to agree), then great! :-) |
Actually recent posts at Strobist.com are leaning to the new year focusing more on non speedlight type flashes and more just on strobe type lighting. We can all learn from the guys who are using the mondo monolights and "professional" lighting gear to get a better grasp of lighting setups and possibilities for us speedlight type folk. |
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04/30/2008 06:33:19 PM · #49 |
Lighting on this image consisted of one Vivitar 285HV bare, pointed down directly onto the subject. You can spot this by the shadows around the nose and neck and reverse engineer this to figure out the direction of the light, and also by the lack of gradation between dark and light, we can deduce it was a hard lighting source.
Because the light was pretty close, not diffused and on the brightest part of him (the skin) I stopped down to about F/14 to compensate for the light and get the exposure correct.
I also asked John to put his head back a little bit so the shadow wouldn't be overly long and also to get some light on his face. I have another one (used on a magazine cover) where his head was forward in its normal position and it looks rather scary.
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04/30/2008 06:40:30 PM · #50 |
| I would love to have flashes via remote trigger. I don't know what to look for. what kind of flashes that I can get and transmitters to run them? Any help would be appreciated. I also thought strobists use flashes not strobe light, that's why I wanted to make sure. |
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