Panning Technique - DPChallenge Forums

03/13/2008 06:04:11 PM · #1

I'm trying to get some good panning shots on some cars this weekend and am going to start with the following settings:

(D40)
Continuous Focus
Continuous Shooting Mode
Shutter priority of about 1/320 speed to start off with
Centre focusing

So two questions, Can anyone give me any tips on the settings above, any better suggestions?

And does anyone know in continuous shooting and focusing mode, does the lens refocus between shots, or is the focus fixed when the shutter release is pressed, and then it only refocuses when released and pressed again?

geoffb

03/13/2008 06:23:28 PM · #2

Originally posted by rob_smith:

does anyone know in continuous shooting and focusing mode, does the lens refocus between shots, or is the focus fixed when the shutter release is pressed, and then it only refocuses when released and pressed again?

It not only refocuses between shots, but refocuses as frequently as it can and thinks it needs to (including while the shutter is half-depressed).

Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM

03/13/2008 06:27:09 PM · #3

For panning, I tend to pre-focus on where the subject is going to be, with a touch of zone focusing (picking a suitable aperture so there's enough depth of field where you think the subject is going to be)

This is easy enough with a track with a known line - focus on the middle of where the car will be when it is closest to you.

Hopefully the car will be moving parallel to your position which makes it easier to pan than say if the car is coming directly at or away from you!

So I'd prefocus then either disable focus or switch to manual focus. Depending on the speed of the cars, I'd probably use a shutter speed down around 1/60s or so (but if it is race cars, much faster - pays to play around with this) I shoot a lot of cyclists so shoot even slower. Shutter priority is the way to go.

The key to a good pan shot is to have the camera tracking before you push the shutter and after the shutter closes again - sort of like a golf swing - it's all in the follow through. You want a good solid position, arms tucked in to your side, one hand supporting the lens and rotate from your trunk.

Shoot a _lot_ you'll get plenty of almost or not quites. Watch out for the backgrounds too - either try to get something that'll be clean across the whole pan, or at least consistent. A bright orange cone can ruin a pan shot in the background.

Practice, try different things, see how it goes.

Ecce_Signum

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

03/13/2008 06:32:09 PM · #4

ok so I'm no expert however, to get a good movement of the background a shutter speed of 1/320 seems a little fast unless the car is 100mph+. I'd like to say play with shutter speeds but if you only get one shot (or sequence) of each car then you'll be under pressure.

I tried it out for a recent challenge at Santa Pod and found that different cars/bikes required differing shutter speeds as their speed varied considerably.

Have never seen a Lambo at Santa Pod before and there were 2 when I last visited!

Shot at 1/50, F/10 and ISO200

Brad

Olympus OM-D E-M1

Olympus 40-150mm f/2.8 PRO M.Zuiko

03/13/2008 06:42:28 PM · #5

There are a few panning shots of cars in here, with exposure data included on them if it helps any:

03/13/2008 07:05:34 PM · #6

Thanks everyone, I took these using manual focus and a slower shutter speed, they are OK but not perfect. That's why I was going to try the continuous focus approach.

03/13/2008 07:10:29 PM · #7

Originally posted by rob_smith:

Thanks everyone, I took these using manual focus and a slower shutter speed, they are OK but not perfect. That's why I was going to try the continuous focus approach.

The first one could potentially be sharper, but I don't think it is a focus issue - its probably more technique and smoothness of the pan - tough on a slope as your body doesn't twist 'that way' so easily.

The second one is going to be just about impossible to get sharp - the car is coming towards you, so is changing size all through the pan. Even if the camera kept focusing it would be roughly equivalent to a zoom blur - the subject is moving and getting bigger, it'll always blur.

Message edited by author 2008-03-13 20:05:36.

03/13/2008 07:57:11 PM · #8

I spend alot of time panning birds and fiddling with shutterspeed. I'm technically impaired so I break down my shots into pieces before I put it all together.

1. First, I take test shots to get blur only. This is a shutterspeed test and learning how your lens will capture blur. At this point, I'm not worried about focus. Your apeture "sweet" point will be crucial here for your lens and getting good blur and adding your subject into that sweet point later for the focus. Also, keep in mind that the D40 has a 1.50 aspect ratio. So, if you shoot at 400mm, you are really at 600mm. 320 seems really high for full sun. My shutterspeed is usually much lower.

2. After I get the shutterspeed that I want for good blur given the lighting conditions, then I shoot for the focus of the lens I'm using and add that point to my blur. The lens I use seems to have a "sweet" point that it likes given the lighting of the subject. This process is about practice. You, your camera, and the part you want to be in focus on your subject must be in complete synchronization to get the focus perfect. Lighting on your subject is also crucial to get your subject to standout from the blurry background.

I shoot alot of panning in manual focus because as you know, the D40 has limits with lenses and the 80-400 I shoot birds with cannot be autofocused with our model of camera. So, this is not entirely by choice...but I have found effective nonetheless.

Panning is such an interactive way of shooting. I know you will have a blast!!

Do post your results and Good Luck!

glad2badad

DJI Mavic Air 2

Sears 55mm f/1.4 M42

03/13/2008 08:37:10 PM · #9

Hey. Sounds like you're having fun. :-) My responses in bold. I set my camera up to shoot in shutter mode priority with basically sports mode settings (continuous focus & burst mode with wide area focusing). Experiment with shutter speed...usually start at 1/30.

Smile and keep having fun!

Originally posted by rob_smith:

I'm trying to get some good panning shots on some cars this weekend and am going to start with the following settings:

(D40)
Continuous Focus - Yes
Continuous Shooting Mode - Yes
Shutter priority of about 1/320 speed to start off with - Too fast, start around 1/60, maybe even 1/30.
Centre focusing - I use wide area for panning.

So two questions, Can anyone give me any tips on the settings above, any better suggestions?

And does anyone know in continuous shooting and focusing mode, does the lens refocus between shots, or is the focus fixed when the shutter release is pressed, and then it only refocuses when released and pressed again? - Good question. I thought in continuous focus it kept adjusting...now I need to check this out too!

03/13/2008 10:16:11 PM · #10

For the D40, to lock focus in continuous mode, you have to control the focus using the little AE-L/AF-L button. The shutter release button cannot be used to lock focus in continous mode (pg 26 of the manual).

Of course, with manual focus you will have complete control of focus at your finger tips...;-)

03/13/2008 10:55:32 PM · #11

Don't know if Nikon's do this (I assume they do) but I set my Canon up so that the focus is on a different button and the shutter is only exposure lock and take the picture. Focus is independent of taking the picture then. Basically there is a mode that swaps exposure lock and focus lock around.

But I use that all the time, not just for panning (though it helps a lot for panning too)

03/14/2008 12:24:27 AM · #12

Originally posted by Gordon:

Yah...the little AE-L/AF-L button can be configured on the D40 to separate the focus and/or the exposure from the primary shutter button. The shutter button can be configured as well for the half-way focus or not. I'm not sure about other more expensive Nikons...

Are any of my Nikon Heros with BIG brothers to my little Nikon out there with that answer?

geoffb

03/14/2008 01:50:30 AM · #13

Originally posted by hihosilver:

Originally posted by Gordon:
Don't know if Nikon's do this (I assume they do) but I set my Canon up so that the focus is on a different button and the shutter is only exposure lock and take the picture. Focus is independent of taking the picture then. Basically there is a mode that swaps exposure lock and focus lock around.

But I use that all the time, not just for panning (though it helps a lot for panning too)

Yah...the little AE-L/AF-L button can be configured on the D40 to separate the focus and/or the exposure from the primary shutter button. The shutter button can be configured as well for the half-way focus or not. I'm not sure about other more expensive Nikons...

Are any of my Nikon Heros with BIG brothers to my little Nikon out there with that answer?

Yeah, the D200 definitely does that. I tried using the button to run autofocus (following Craig Tanner's advice), but it got tiring for me.

Message edited by author 2008-03-14 01:51:17.

03/14/2008 05:49:25 AM · #14

Originally posted by hihosilver:

That's OK, I actually want the focus to change as I shoot continuous.

03/14/2008 10:26:34 AM · #15

Originally posted by rob_smith:

That's OK, I actually want the focus to change as I shoot continuous.

Well, then keeping the focus tied to the shutter button should achieve your goal. I can't wait to see your photos! Good Luck!

03/14/2008 10:34:39 AM · #16

Originally posted by geoffb:

Yeah, the D200 definitely does that. I tried using the button to run autofocus (following Craig Tanner's advice), but it got tiring for me.

I picked the technique up from one of the Canon 1D configuration booklets several years ago. It took a few days of use to get used to. Now I find it weird if the camera doesn't work that way. Probably depends a lot on what you shoot, if it is important and or useful to you or not.

Message edited by author 2008-03-14 10:35:24.

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 ED

03/24/2008 06:40:02 PM · #17

Originally posted by hihosilver:

Thanks everyone for the fantastic advice, in the end I did a load of test shots on random passing cars to try out different settings, ended up with:

Continuous Focus
Continuous Shooting Mode
Shutter priority of 1/125
Centre focusing

Here are a couple:

and a select few from the car shoot:

Rob Smith Photography

The rest of the panning ones are on flickr:

//www.flickr.com/photos/rob_smith_photography/2341250591/in/set-72157603867108936/

thanks again for the help!

:)

Message edited by author 2008-03-24 18:40:47.

rhino_ry4n

Nikon D50

04/09/2008 04:18:26 PM · #18

im an absolute begginner and have a nikon d50 with basic lens could someone help me out on panning as i am off to watch f1 soon and need an idiot proof guide of how to get best results from this, any help will be most appriciated!! i really need a simple guide as im struggling with everything on cam!

Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS

04/09/2008 04:28:56 PM · #19

Rob, Wow! Your results came out beautifully!!! I admit my favorite was the purple car on your website...I just love purple! (sorry for the late post...I've been busy) ;-)

SteveJ

Canon EOS-7D

04/09/2008 04:37:14 PM · #20

I tried taking photos of my mate, Brian Johnson, at Santa Pod with his Top Fuel Bike! I gave up and just shot staging and launching, as a 6.1 second run at 232 mph was just a bit too fast for an oldie like me!!

Experiment, have fun and I am sure you will get some good shots:)

04/09/2008 05:42:30 PM · #21

Originally posted by hihosilver:

Rob, Wow! Your results came out beautifully!!! I admit my favorite was the purple car on your website...I just love purple! (sorry for the late post...I've been busy) ;-)

Thanks Mae!

You mean this one?

It was running over 600BHP and cost over £85K!