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DPChallenge Forums >> Tutorials >> An Astrophotography Primer
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Showing posts 1 - 25 of 33, descending (reverse)
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09/20/2012 03:04:36 PM · #1
Aren't some of those pictures on your wall?
09/20/2012 03:01:52 PM · #2
I thought you might have been the one to start this post! Nice job...as usual.
09/20/2012 12:56:41 PM · #3
Drat! I thought this was an astrology primer for tonight's zodiac challenge!
09/20/2012 10:33:48 AM · #4
Check out the winners of Astronomy Photographer of the Year 2012;

//www.bbc.co.uk/news/science-environment-19637073
09/18/2012 01:21:06 PM · #5
For some....you don't need a telescope to capture galaxies.
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Not the best, but this was the first time I was using a piggyback mount and just wanted to try it out.

I'll respond to your specific questions in a bit....gotta run at the moment.
09/18/2012 12:30:04 PM · #6
This is a pretty old thread, but maybe somebody can help me out. When I shot my moon for the recent moon challenge, I just held my lens up to the eyepiece and snapped the shutter. I have an 8" dobsonian telescope. I used the 24-105 f/4L and a 30mm eyepiece.

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The moon however isn't nearly as nice as what I saw with my eye looking through the telescope. And even with my widest eyepiece I had a very difficult time getting the whole moon in the shot.

I know with the dobsonian I won't be able to do galaxies and nebula's, but would like to get better moon and planet shots. So I'm guessing I need to invest in some sort of mount for my rebel, but unsure which method would work best, prime focus or projection.

Mostly, I want to capture what I see when looking at the full moon through my 16mm 100° eyepiece, and Jupiter/Saturn through my 5mm or 7mm eyepiece.

09/18/2012 06:04:29 AM · #7
Do you have any specific formula to follow here? I'm planing to do some star trails and I'm not worried about the sensor over heating or the battery running out cause I'm using film.

Thanks :)
02/06/2008 05:37:57 PM · #8
Originally posted by brownsm:

I would think that hyperfocal distance can help here! At f5.6 and 17mm, the hyperfocal distance is just about 7 feet. that means that everything from 3.5 ft to infinity is sufficiently focussed. I've printed out a hyperfocal chart and now keep it in my camera bag.

edited distance to account for APS-sized sensor instead of FF


You'd think hyperfocal rules would work, but you'd be surprised just how liberal the standard hyperfocal calculations are with the definition of "in focus," In practice, the technique that John refers to a few posts back (shoot, review at high magnification on LCD, tweak, reshoot...) is required for critical focus, even with WA lenses.
02/06/2008 05:10:45 PM · #9
You're right Van, another area to add for the 2.0.
02/06/2008 05:07:03 PM · #10
Great tutorial!! I would also add digiscoping. Just placing lens up to an eye piece to telescope and shooting. If done right, can also be quite easy and very nice.

Examples: Coolpix 990 to a 80mm 20-60x Pentax Spotting scope at 20x zoomed to eliminate black eye piece circle. [thumb]47013[/thumb] ' . substr('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_challenge/0-999/44/120/8961.jpg', strrpos('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_challenge/0-999/44/120/8961.jpg', '/') + 1) . '' . substr('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_challenge/0-999/181/120/56828.jpg', strrpos('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_challenge/0-999/181/120/56828.jpg', '/') + 1) . '
02/06/2008 04:54:47 PM · #11
I would think that hyperfocal distance can help here! At f5.6 and 17mm, the hyperfocal distance is just about 7 feet. that means that everything from 3.5 ft to infinity is sufficiently focussed. I've printed out a hyperfocal chart and now keep it in my camera bag.

edited distance to account for APS-sized sensor instead of FF

Message edited by author 2008-02-06 16:57:47.
02/06/2008 04:51:41 PM · #12
When I'm working on focus, I generally aim at the brightest star or stars, and shoot a test shot, then zoom in on the LCD and check the star; nudge the focus ring a smidge, reshoot, reexamine, etc. After about a dozen shots, I'm generally as close as I'm going to get. I've threatened to mark my lenses with a sharpie but have never gotten around to doing it.
02/06/2008 04:49:08 PM · #13
The one thing I always screw up is setting the focus manually when I'm trying to do landscape/ star trail shots. Infinity isn't what it used to be (the zooms have a certain amount of overshoot on the focus dial), particularly on a wide angle zoom, but I always seem to go too far past the end of the line on my 17-40 Made slightly worse by shooting at or around f4/5.6 to let enough light in to make actual trails. Sure you can shine a light if the subject is close, but that doesn't seem to work for me for mountain ranges - any advice ? (other than prefocus in daylight or learn your lenses better ?)

On the flip side, something useful for establishing composition and exposure - shoot at ISO 3200 (or as high as your camera will go) at your widest aperture - you'll get a noisy, nasty image but you can check the composition on the LCD, to see if things you want in the shot are where you want them to be. You can then use reciprocity to calculate back to a sensible shutter speed, for a less noisy ISO, from the calculated exposure. Works quite well.

Message edited by author 2008-02-06 16:53:02.
02/06/2008 04:21:06 PM · #14
Originally posted by levyj413:

WOW. John, if I could've rated this five times, it would've been five 3s. Just a fantastic tutorial.

One quick note for you: Langdon will host all the images on DPC's dime, so you don't have to keep anything in your workshop.

Thanks J. Yes, I'll probably have him switch them over eventually, but it was faster to write the thing up this way.
02/06/2008 04:06:33 PM · #15
WOW. John, if I could've rated this five times, it would've been five 3s. Just a fantastic tutorial.

One quick note for you: Langdon will host all the images on DPC's dime, so you don't have to keep anything in your workshop.
01/15/2008 09:06:32 PM · #16
This is great! Thanks for the tutorial.

Message edited by author 2008-01-15 21:07:35.
01/15/2008 11:23:05 AM · #17
This is great...thanks!
01/15/2008 09:48:59 AM · #18
Nice work! Makes me want to (finally) invest in an equatorial mount for my scope.
01/15/2008 06:47:40 AM · #19
I'm still working on the one you sent me, sorry for the delay.....

Originally posted by strangeghost:

Post your comments, questions, and reviews for...

'An Astrophotography Primer'
by strangeghost

View this tutorial here.
01/15/2008 03:09:01 AM · #20
Thanks for sharing. Great tutorial.
01/15/2008 01:40:59 AM · #21
Thanks for the great primer John! My wife received a telescope for Christmas and I'm sure this will help her a lot.
01/14/2008 09:51:21 PM · #22
Great work. Like the advice on the 30 second sweet spot. Thanks
01/14/2008 09:39:05 PM · #23
A very interesting read and fantastic explanation and examples - thanks, John!
01/14/2008 08:13:47 PM · #24
Shameless yes! But I'm happy with the tutorial and my ego needs some feedback!
01/14/2008 07:59:35 PM · #25
Originally posted by strangeghost:

Shameless Monday bump


Hmmm, yes shamelessness and Mondays, always a great combo ;-)

Wait, I'm shameless *all* the time!
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