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12/31/2003 12:30:51 AM · #1 |
| i think its my inexperience but the viewfinder black out is really giving me a hard time following the subject accurately. one more thing, usually when you people pan, how far physically are you from the subject? |
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12/31/2003 12:34:23 AM · #2 |
| What do you mean "viewfinder black out"? I'd say that most pan shots, in distance from subject, would range from 20 to 100 feet or so. Just depends on how fast the subject is moving. Example, if it's a missle traveling at 1000 mph, trying to pan it at 100 feet might be too bold. :) |
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12/31/2003 12:39:21 AM · #3 |
One great piece that can help you is a monopod. I'm not very good at these shots so I'm not going to try giving you any other advice.
But the monopod is a really cheap helping device :) |
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12/31/2003 12:41:35 AM · #4 |
A tripod that has a smoothly moving head can be great as well. Just make sure you set up in the right spot.
Mind you, a tripod will work best when the subject is moving perfectly horizontal or vertical. But it can still help moving other ways. Depends on the tripod as well!
Lee
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12/31/2003 06:54:05 AM · #5 |
Shoot in wide (min. zoom, instead of telephoto), that reduces camera-shake. Leave lost of margin for cropping. To capture the moment, I used the "Last 5" multishot mode: Just squeezed the shutter and left the finger there until I thought I had a good shot. When shooting a panning photo, you have to trust your senses. Don't try and capture a specific moment, just follow the car's path smoothly. Has for the S5000 blackout, I think you are refering to the moment where the image freezes in the EVF/LCD: it happens while the camera is focusing, so just half-press the shutter until it aufofocus, and then press all the way down to take the picture.
Hope it helps you, fell free to send any test photos.
BTW: Believe me, the original photo was not that godd; it was improved with a bit of "Unsharp Mask" and "Noise Preserving Smooth" (allowed by the rules)
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12/31/2003 10:16:19 AM · #6 |
Start panning before you press the shutter and follow through after the camera has done its thing. This helps keep the motion smooth.
All these suggestions assume the subject is moving smoothly! It is almost impossible to pan something moving erratically. The subject should also be moving roughly parallel to the camera's sensor or film; a subject moving towards or away from you will change its apparent size and appear blurry. |
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12/31/2003 10:42:12 AM · #7 |
What dr rick sez about subject motion is important. If the subject is approaching or receding as it travels past you, it will be difficult to maintain focus, since the focus distance is continually changing. SLRs are able to track focus generally much better than non-SLR cameras (there may be some exceptions, but if so I am unaware of them). I know with my Nikon 995 it is nearly impossible to adequately track an approaching or receding subject.
IMHO, the best panning shots are those that use both limited DoF and motion blur to separate the subject from the foreground/background. In order to pull this off with any repeatability, you need fast focus tracking.
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01/01/2004 04:11:34 AM · #8 |
| the viewfinder blackout is when the mirror flips up in slr and when the evf freezes after pressing the shutter. i find that unless you are within 100ft and the camera you are moving the camera quite quickly, its almost impossible to get a clear subject and blur background. my experiences were that when im further away and the with the camera moving very little due to the distance, both would be blur. i think i should pratice more at the road side. (once a cop stopped to ask me what i was doing!) |
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01/01/2004 04:56:29 AM · #9 |
Most have given you good advice already, other than that...
Practice, practice, practice. |
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01/01/2004 07:11:35 AM · #10 |
as dr rick said is how I do it.
for example, shooting a car driving past...
I'll stand usually 20 meters from the road, and pick my subject in the distance, and follow the subject all the way, I 3/4 ignore whats in the viewfinder when it gets close and just concentrate on moving at the same constant speed, and keep following after the shutters closed.
I attatched a image from when I was practicing panning, try the method and practice like this, helps!
I did this int he afternoon, but squeezing the apature would do the same thing.
I stood about 45 meters from the highway (100kph speedlimit), zoomed in to 55mm (90mm) and started following them handholding the camera.
a monopod would be helpful aswell.
when taking an actual photo where you want the subjecty clear aim for a 1/40 or 1/60 or so shutter.
I find that when following a car/truck at 20meters or so quite easy, but practice if not goodenough...
thats all it takes ;)
Message edited by author 2004-01-01 08:01:14. |
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01/01/2004 07:23:08 AM · #11 |
that pan shot of yours is not good its just the same as what i get. the subject is not really 'clear' im not so sure about your 1/5 shutter because you must be real good with your hand/eye to get that at 60mph. i shoot 1/15 at most.
Message edited by author 2004-01-01 07:23:45. |
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01/01/2004 07:42:26 AM · #12 |
thats why I practice at 1/5, so the error is exagerated.
1/15 is really too slow aswell, I'd reccomend you getting in closer, moving the camera faster and shooting at 1/40 atleast.
like I said, If I actually want to use that photo I got for atleast 1/40 shutter.
you also don;t want to shoot it from anything else than really straight on.
you pan to hold it on, but only shoot as it goes straight past you, otherwise lens perspective will come into play (if you look at the truck you can see how much more the back is moved, thats why I shown thaty particular one).
also as was said, shoot with wide angle, and get in close.
if you shoot wide angle, the distortion doesn;t appear as harsh, you try and move at a constant speed fast (moving fast is easier than slow) and then you shoot.
that way, your moving quickly, so it will blur the background enough, and because your shooting with a fastenough shutter your slight error in movement won;t be as obvious, hopefully unnoticable.
I think the best movement shot I have is 1/60 shutter at 60mm effective
what is it you are trying to shoot? |
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01/01/2004 07:51:39 AM · #13 |
| i wanted to shoot the 100m sprint of my high school sports this comming summer. my teacher is kind enough to let me stand 10ft from the track. im praticing on high way cars now. the nice thing is that my high school has this nice d10 with 50mm f1.4 usm which i plan to use to its limits. |
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