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11/03/2003 02:59:36 PM · #1 |
these are not exciting by any means....
I just wanted to know if anyone could help me to figure out why I am getting results on the soft side.
I do think that the focus on this camera is incredibly fast, and the noise level, as compared with the Sony, is night and day.
fooling around with the Rebel
BTW: the pink flower shot was with flash...it seems sharper than the daylight shots.
Message edited by author 2003-11-03 15:01:00.
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11/03/2003 03:07:47 PM · #2 |
Hard to say without knowing the details of the shots. Can you upload the photos including the Exif data. This will show shutter speed, apeture, etc. Also what are you using as the focusing method?
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11/03/2003 03:23:22 PM · #3 |
Pics tend to appear softer out of the camera with the 10D and 300D, however they respond very well to USM (Unsharp Mask). You'll also notice that the Depth of Field is shallower. However, Mariomel is right, it would help us to know the EXIF data.
Congrats on the new cam :)
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11/03/2003 04:02:43 PM · #4 |
I added the EXIF info under the photos. I shot all of them with the kit lens(18-55). All with auto focus.
Can't tell you which settings they were on, I was trying all different settings(manual, Av, macro, etc.)
As far as the DOF, that is one of the things I love in a DSLR.
Jacko- with regards to sharpening, if I open the original JPEG in photoshop, and crop, fix levels, etc..do I unsharp mask at that time, or do I reopen it after I have saved it? I thought I once heard that you should first save the image, and then go back in to unsharp. Am I mistaken? You'd think I'd know this by now...
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11/03/2003 04:15:12 PM · #5 |
Always sharpen after resampling/resizing, but no don't save and then go back and sharpen. Every time you save as a .jpg it compresses it somewhat and leaves artifacts from the previous compression. I usually sharpen after I've done everything else. You can always put sharpening on +1 or +2 in the parameter settings to get sharper images straight out of the camera, though I just keep it on the default and sharpen later, if I'm shooting in jpeg (which I usually do).
Message edited by author 2003-11-03 16:17:01. |
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11/03/2003 04:21:27 PM · #6 |
Are you using a tripod or handheld ?
How smoothly do you press the shutter ?
Some of them, particularly the softer ones are at slower shutter speeds, depending on how you hold the camera, your technique could account for some of the softness.
Also the lack of sharpening will impact it too, as mentioned. |
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11/03/2003 04:24:17 PM · #7 |
you could also save the file as a *.PSD and go back later to sharpen it - that file format doesnt compress the image at all - so you wont lose any quality.
you wont gain any better results either - but to edit - then edit again later that is the way i do it...
soup |
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11/03/2003 05:25:44 PM · #8 |
I know with the slower shutter speed shots it could be camera shake. Basically I just wanted to know if it is common to have the shots look a little soft out of camera, and if it takes unsharp to correct this.
I am quite impressed with the smoothness of the images out of the camera - no neat image needed.
With the Sony, the images out of camera were almost too sharp. The noise was much higher and I always used despeckle and smart blur to help them.
(for those of you trying to choose a new camera, I say skip the Sony, make the extra step to DSLR).
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11/03/2003 05:48:30 PM · #9 |
the biggest complaint i have with the 300d -w lense kit
is the lense is not good at all in low light. so a tripod is a necessity in my mind.
one other thing i noticed is if you want quality photos dont use anything above 400 ISO - i know that seems obvious but i used to get better results with 1600 speed film than the ISO 800 setting on the 300d
work arounds to this would be interesting though - if anyone knows of any
soup
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11/03/2003 06:07:14 PM · #10 |
You could try to push an underexposed ISO400 or 800 manually by
* curve adjustment
* create several layers in screen mode (adjust the opacity of the last one to finetune it)
Try to get noise out of the image before the adjustment?
The other problem with the 18-55 lens is that it is pretty soft at the widest available apertures (the lower the F the wider). It is at its optimum stopped down a bit (close the aperture = from F5 to F8 for example). With a better lens or L lenses you would have the same thing happening, only much less. So with the 18-55 you have cool narrow dof, but at those settings the lens is at its worst and that is reflected in the image quality by noticeably softer images.
So these images looking softer is probably a mix of a lot of things;
* camera shake
* less in camera sharpening opposed to prosumers (yes you do have to correct that with USM)
* perhaps chosen the wrong area to focus on, resulting in a slightly off the subject dof area
* lens limitation at its widest apertures
A Sigma 15-30/3.5-4.5 EX Asf. DG or the Canon EF 17-40/4.0 L USM or the Canon EF 16-35/2.8 L USM would perform much better wide open, altough in this list it is getting better from the Sigma to the last Canon but it is the other way round concerning the price. :)
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11/03/2003 08:30:44 PM · #11 |
All of the above information is great. I'd add the following thoughts:
- The 10D & 300D will show up any softness in a lens very readily. Although the sensor doesn't use the edges of the image circle, so the lens really isn't at its worst, these cameras will stretch teh resolving power of even the best glass. You want to buy the best glass you can afford for use with these beasties.
- For the same reasons the 300D/10D show up softness in lenses, they also show up minor amounts of shake that normally might be undetectable. Use of a tripod, or at least a monopod, is highly recommended to get that last bit of resolution.
- A give-away that camera shake may be playing a role is the sharpness of the flash shot. the length of the flash is typically <1/1000s so you artificially reduce shake with the flash in use. One caveat to this is that higher contrast edges will look sharper, and the flash tends to give higher contrast edges...
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