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10/21/2003 07:42:39 AM · #1 |
Hi,
I frequently find myself wanting to take longer exposure photographs to capture a deeper, richer photograph - often in daylight. It might be an autumn scene, or a waterfall or whatever. I often end up with overexposed pictures, and have a lot of trouble getting it right. Using my Powershot S50, the f-stop can only be set up to f.8 so it doesn't help to minimise light much. Has anyone had any experience with longer daylight exposures on a non-SLR camera? Any suggestions as to how I could improve things would be very helpful indeed.
Regards,
Alastair. |
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10/21/2003 08:26:28 AM · #2 |
A circular polarizing filter will help a lot. It will cut down the light reaching the ccd in your camera. It will also render more saturated colors.
You can also use one or more neutral density (ND) filters at the same time. If you can't find these filters to fit your camera, you can buy square one's made by Cokin that are designed to fit in a holder adapter. The ND filters will allow longer exposures.
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10/21/2003 08:52:59 AM · #3 |
| NDs are what you need - there are also a range of Cokin filters designed for digicams that screw into the tripod mount |
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10/21/2003 09:08:54 AM · #4 |
I saw somewhere in an earlier thread, about pinholing a lenscap. May be worth a shot?? Sounds like fun too.
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10/21/2003 10:25:50 AM · #5 |
When using a polarizing filter, either circular or linear, rotate the filter slowly until you see the blue part of the sky darken. At this point most of the colors will be more saturated. It is sometimes difficult to tell when the darkening occurs, and it depends on the angle of the filter to the sun. Try a couple of different angles, that is, if you don't see the sky darken as you rotate the polarizing filter, rotate the whole camera about 90 degrees, (you will be off your subject at this point), and rotate the filter again. At some point you will see the effect. It will not always be strongest at the angle you are to your subject, but at least you will see how it works.
Even if you are not shooting a landscape or the sky, the polarizing filter has a great effect on saturating the colors in most outdoor scenes.
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10/21/2003 10:30:40 AM · #6 |
| With Oly5050 I set ISO 64,F8 and CPL filter and slows down to 1-2 seconds in daylight. |
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10/21/2003 10:42:42 AM · #7 |
A polariser will give you an extra 1 stop (lightest angle) and 2 stops (darkest angle) but will also change the saturation/ kill reflections etc which you may or may not want for water.
NDs can be bought with less and more light blocking properties - so give some more control if you need it. |
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10/21/2003 11:51:36 AM · #8 |
| Fantastic, thanks for the help folks! |
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10/21/2003 11:58:03 AM · #9 |
For smoothing water you need to have long exposure, granted, but for saturated color you need not longer exposure. You can use one of several image editors to crisp up your colors.
Assuming you still want longer exposure, ND filters will work for your purposes. And, if you're going for better color and don't want to post-process (ha ha, shoot slide if you don't want to use PS or something alike), use warming filters.
Also, set your ISO to it's minimum allowance, probably ISO 100. This is best for quality and will help "slow" down the exposure.
Shoot at early/late in the day to get the best color from the sun.
And don't forget your tripod/beanbag and to breathe deep before you shoot. :) |
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10/21/2003 12:00:33 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by Gordon:
A polariser will give you an extra 1 stop (lightest angle) and 2 stops (darkest angle) but will also change the saturation/ kill reflections etc which you may or may not want for water.
NDs can be bought with less and more light blocking properties - so give some more control if you need it. |
ok so now we know how to make a longer exposure on a bright day...the real question is: will it satisfy the original intent? by that i mean, with a digital camera, do longer exposures translate into richer colours etc as they do in film? I don't know enough about the technology to come up with an answer. Gordon? Anyone?
P |
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10/21/2003 12:17:38 PM · #11 |
If you mean by richer colours, increased saturation , you can get that more easily by under exposing by about a third of a stop or so. In the same way you can desaturate colours by slight over exposure.
I usually use NDs for longer exposures to capture motion - e.g., smoky water and the like, even on brighter days.
A polariser also helps to increase colour saturation on a lot of subjects by removing reflections. This is most obvious on water/ glass but also helps on leaves/ grass and so on.
Message edited by author 2003-10-21 16:34:53.
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10/21/2003 01:21:49 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by Gordon:
If you mean by richer colours, increased saturation , you can get that more easily by under exposing by about a stop or so. In the same way you can desaturate colours by slight over exposure.
I usually use NDs for longer exposures to capture motion - e.g., smoky water and the like, even on brighter days. |
that is exactly what i meant - thanks. I'm such a photoshop freak I don't tend to learn the other stuff that i need when it comes to DPC. useful tip. thanks, G.
Pedro |
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10/21/2003 03:56:10 PM · #13 |
Something I've toyed with that might be useful with smaller digicams is using UV/polorizing sunglasses. You have to make sure that you hold the sunglass lens correctly or you get distortion, but, depending on the lens and quality of the polorization, you can get some great effects!
Here are some examples:
Pic 1
Pic 2
These sere shot using two different pairs of motor-cross goggles during a dust storm.
Message edited by author 2003-10-21 15:59:53. |
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