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11/02/2006 06:36:59 AM · #1 |
OK I thought it might be interesting to start a thread that lets people see what each others workflows are. The idea is to keep it as simple as possible instead of 'going off on a general discussion'. So the software used then a couple of comments of what you do.
RAW Workflow
1) Adobe Bridge - remove unwanted photos, as much correction here
2) Adobe CS2 - edit anything else that is required
JPEG Workflow
1) Picasa 2 - basic levels / crop, export to desired picture size
As you can see this is really basic, it should hopefully be interesting to see what people roughly use. RAW shooter, Capture One, PS Elements, Paint 5.1 etc
cheers
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11/02/2006 08:15:33 AM · #2 |
RawShooter Premium
1) Quickly apply general presets (constrast, color, sharpness) to all photos
2) Select best photos
3) Adjust one image of a series (White balance & exposure while tweaking levels, curves adjustments).
4) Copy settings from that image to all images in the series.
5) Manually tweak those settings as necessary for each image in the series
6) Repeat steps 3-5 until all images have been tweaked
7) Convert to jpeg
At this point, if these are from a wedding, I will, on the same day, have the images pulled into ProShow Gold and up and running as a slide show for the wedding reception. Then later uploaded to smugmug for proofing.
If the images were for family portraits, etc, then they will be posted on smugmug for proofing. Although I am considering having the customer come to my studio first to look at them on my projector before uploading to smugmug.
Note: I did NOT have to edit any images in Photoshop. This is a very fast workflow for me and results in *very* presentable images without ever touching photoshop.
After the customer selects the images, that's when I get into photoshop to do any final edits.
However, if the customer has purchased a very large print, I may go back and reconvert the image - converting to a tif this time so that my photoshop edits can be done in 16-bit mode. Depending on the image, I may do the reconversion in RSP with some final tweaks before converting, or I might even load the image into DxO Optics Pro v4, which I consider a much better quality Raw Convert, albeit many times slower than RSP (both in the UI and in the processing of the images).
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11/02/2006 08:18:50 AM · #3 |
1.ACDSee
2.PhotoImpact (RAW) |
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11/02/2006 08:21:47 AM · #4 |
I can't for the life of me figure out what I'm supposed to do with Adobe Lightroom. I've downloaded the Beta Versions but it just seems like Bridge with very elementary editing.
I'm hoping that the Adobe folks can tell me at the NY Photo expo tomorrow. |
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11/02/2006 08:45:27 AM · #5 |
Originally posted by KHolt:
RAW Workflow
1) Adobe Bridge - remove unwanted photos, as much correction here
2) Adobe CS2 - edit anything else that is required |
Did you buy CS2 straight from Adobe or is it cheaper to buy from a retailer? $649 is a bit steep. Oh, the temptations to get one.
EDIT: Typos.
Message edited by author 2006-11-02 08:45:56. |
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11/02/2006 09:13:40 AM · #6 |
just use it at work :) so I'm afraid I don't know the answer to your question.
Do you fancy sharing your current workflow.....
cheers
Keith
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11/02/2006 10:14:12 AM · #7 |
- download to PC or Laptop
- quickly view all photos in zoombrowser deleting the bad ones (98%) :-)
- rawshooter to quick adjust exposure, saturation and curve (copy/paste)
- convert to jpegs (for web) or tiffs (for printing or HDR processing)
- then photoshop for final color correction, usm or something else
Edit: oh yeah, i'm looking for a software where i can do all this at once :-)
Message edited by author 2006-11-02 10:15:46. |
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11/02/2006 10:34:35 AM · #8 |
Normally it is
• Rawshooter Essentials for white balance adjust, contrast and brightness adjust, Saturation adjust. Export to TIFF
• Paint Shop Pro 8.0 for all other processing, cropping, resizing. Save as psp file and export to jpeg.
But rite now I am trying out Paint Shop Pro 11 witch supports NEF files. Seems to be working pretty good. I think I am going to purchase it.
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11/02/2006 10:34:38 AM · #9 |
view contents of CF card with Breeze Browser, copy any image that looks like it might possibly be a keeper to my working directory for the shoot. (I organize\catalogue shoots by date). I sort rather carefully cause if I don't see something I like about an image the first time around, it usually doesnt get a second chance.
Open the directory in CS (I dont have CS2) and use the browser to see all the pics at once. Open one of the pics that look good with Adobe raw, adjust settings to taste and size desired.
Once converted I adjust levels and or curves as desired. Save as HQ JPEG to a sub directory.
Then I go through each image I like in the series the same way. Usually in an "as shot" fashion so its easier to keep up with the adjustments in the raw converter by using the Previous Conversion option.
I typically don't sharpen at all unless I'm doing proofs or preparing images for print. If I want to get proofs I go back and use Breeze Browser again. It's much faster than PS. |
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11/02/2006 10:40:41 AM · #10 |
-upload images to hd
-burn all raw to DVD
-go into Olympus master and print an index sheet of all the images on the raw disk for quick retrieval (this process is extremely slow)
-Store the raw disk and index sheets in a binder for that month/year.
-Open Photoshop CS file browser and delete all bad shots
-take one shot at a time raw process and convert to 16 bit Tiff.
-process levels and curves and convert to full sized JPG
-Reduce full sized jpg to Photographers direct thumbnail standards
-burn tiff,lg jpg, and thumbnail to mini cd.
-rename image to company standard
-Print out a custom made index card where I write info on where it resides, who purchased it, term of usage, ect.
-store mini cd with the custom index card for that image for instant client availability (no searching)
-upload and keyword from my book of keywords for generic subjects that I created for myself. (I should embed the keywords in the Tiff now that I am going to add more than one stock site)
That is a very time consuming process and I REALLY need to find a way to reduce the time involved. I also need to add a noise reducing process and a better program to process the raw index sheet. Olympus master takes ALL DAY for one Disk of images! Any suggestions would be GREATLY appreciated!
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11/02/2006 10:47:25 AM · #11 |
Upload photos into iphoto 6
Check for critical sharpness, composition etc. Delete the dogs.
Choose the image to be worked
Open in PS CS2.
Duplicate layer and do minor cloning when appropriate.
Levels, Curves, color adjustments
Save
Fit Image
Sharpen
Save for web
Upload
connect to external Hard drive for back up
Message edited by author 2006-11-02 10:47:45.
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11/02/2006 11:08:37 AM · #12 |
1. Shoot in RAW with all camera settings "off" or at their lowest value, WB usually at "auto" (so the preview in the RAW converter is completely neutral)
2. Open with EOS Viewer Utility for RAW conversion. Cull and discard unusable frames. Process each frame for exposure to the right side of the histogram and WB correction if needed. Add any desired overall color shift here. Save as 16-bit TIFF.
3. As I am currently unable to process 16-bit images in PS7, open in PS7 and clone off an 8-bit version, saved as PSD, for exploratory processing. Determine if the desired image (tonal range wise) can be attained from this version. If so, proceed (often with contrast masking) to the final version. If not:
4. Go to Photomatix Pro, generate a tone-mapped version, save as an 8-bit TIFF, and open that in PS7.
5. Often copy the tone mapped version and add that as a layer to the PSD "straight" image, then adjust layer mode and opacity to merge the two.
6. From this point on, the usual post-processing, size reduction, sharpening, borders, etc.
This is a completely custom workflow. I never do batch processing, though if I were working on "jobs" with a lot of similar images I certainly would.
R, |
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11/02/2006 01:36:21 PM · #13 |
This is all great stuff, hopefully others are finding it as interesting as I am. Any one else care to add.....?
Message edited by author 2006-11-02 13:36:37.
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11/02/2006 01:54:27 PM · #14 |
I shoot in jpg, haven't tried out raw yet.
I copy the files to my external harddrive. Open them up in photoshop immediately closing the bad ones. Edit the ones I like and save for web under the same name as the original file so I can quickly find it again and repeat the processing (well mostly anyway) if I want a big print of it.
Rather basic really. |
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11/02/2006 02:04:01 PM · #15 |
for my 30d, i shoot in both raw and jpg. all files get backed up to an external hard drive immediately. then all .jpg files are loaded into iphoto on my laptop. once i identify photos i want to do processing on, i load the raw files into adobe lightroom and do manipulations there.
for my point-and-shoot, the .jpg files go into iphoto... as needed i will manipulate in lightroom. for the most part, i only use iphoto for cataloging. any adjustments are done in lightroom, preferably from raw files. thus far i've been impressed with lightroom. the beta is free until february. at that time i'll decide if i want to get the release version, or go with aperture. for now i'm trying to save money.
afc
Message edited by author 2006-11-02 14:04:26. |
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11/02/2006 03:18:14 PM · #16 |
For RAW files, my workflow is normally something like this:
1. Convert to 16-bit TIFF using Adobe Camera Raw – I usually adjust the white balance, but may also adjust other parameters, such as exposure, shadows, brightness, contrast, and saturation.
2. Remove noise using NeatImage (if desirable or necessary).
3. Open TIFF file in PhotoshopCS2.
4. Run PTLens plug-in to correct barrel distortion (if necessary, depends on lens used)
5. Use Measure Tool & Rotate Canvas to level horizon (if required for landscape shot)
6. Crop to desired dimensions.
7. Make any desired adjustments to color, brightness, contrast, and saturation. Normally I do this with adjustment layers.
8. Any other special editing, such as cloning, dodging, burning, etc. Usually on separate layers.
9. At this stage I normally give the image a very light sharpening pass using the Smart Sharpen action.
10. Convert to JPG for uploading. For dpchallenge, I use the ‘Save for Web’ command. Otherwise, I convert the image to 8-bit, then save as high quality JPG.
11. For a dpchallenge photo, I open the small JPG that was created with the ‘Save for Web’ command and run the Smart Sharpen action again. Then I run the ‘Save for Web’ command again in order to keep the file down to the required size.
12. Upload, sit through voting, collect ribbon.
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11/02/2006 03:30:42 PM · #17 |
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
1. Shoot in RAW with all camera settings "off" or at their lowest value, WB usually at "auto" (so the preview in the RAW converter is completely neutral)
2. Open with EOS Viewer Utility for RAW conversion. Cull and discard unusable frames. Process each frame for exposure to the right side of the histogram and WB correction if needed. Add any desired overall color shift here. Save as 16-bit TIFF.
3. As I am currently unable to process 16-bit images in PS7, open in PS7 and clone off an 8-bit version, saved as PSD, for exploratory processing. Determine if the desired image (tonal range wise) can be attained from this version. If so, proceed (often with contrast masking) to the final version. If not:
4. Go to Photomatix Pro, generate a tone-mapped version, save as an 8-bit TIFF, and open that in PS7.
5. Often copy the tone mapped version and add that as a layer to the PSD "straight" image, then adjust layer mode and opacity to merge the two.
6. From this point on, the usual post-processing, size reduction, sharpening, borders, etc.
This is a completely custom workflow. I never do batch processing, though if I were working on "jobs" with a lot of similar images I certainly would.
R, |
You gotta upgrade your photoshop so you can work in a complete 16 bit environment. I just recently purchased Photomatix and I notice you can use the tone mapping directly inside photoshop. Plus you can process those 32 bit mode HDR images in photoshop as well.
Message edited by author 2006-11-02 15:31:38. |
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11/02/2006 04:11:55 PM · #18 |
Originally posted by Uusilehto:
Originally posted by KHolt:
RAW Workflow
1) Adobe Bridge - remove unwanted photos, as much correction here
2) Adobe CS2 - edit anything else that is required |
Did you buy CS2 straight from Adobe or is it cheaper to buy from a retailer? $649 is a bit steep. Oh, the temptations to get one.
EDIT: Typos. |
Cheapest way is to buy a full version PS 5/6 or 7, 'new in box', on EBay (you can get it for about $50-$70) and then you can buy the upgrade from Adobe for $169. But, if you have or buy Elements, the upgrade is $499.
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11/02/2006 05:53:50 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by yanko:
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
1. Shoot in RAW with all camera settings "off" or at their lowest value, WB usually at "auto" (so the preview in the RAW converter is completely neutral)
2. Open with EOS Viewer Utility for RAW conversion. Cull and discard unusable frames. Process each frame for exposure to the right side of the histogram and WB correction if needed. Add any desired overall color shift here. Save as 16-bit TIFF.
3. As I am currently unable to process 16-bit images in PS7, open in PS7 and clone off an 8-bit version, saved as PSD, for exploratory processing. Determine if the desired image (tonal range wise) can be attained from this version. If so, proceed (often with contrast masking) to the final version. If not:
4. Go to Photomatix Pro, generate a tone-mapped version, save as an 8-bit TIFF, and open that in PS7.
5. Often copy the tone mapped version and add that as a layer to the PSD "straight" image, then adjust layer mode and opacity to merge the two.
6. From this point on, the usual post-processing, size reduction, sharpening, borders, etc.
This is a completely custom workflow. I never do batch processing, though if I were working on "jobs" with a lot of similar images I certainly would.
R, |
You gotta upgrade your photoshop so you can work in a complete 16 bit environment. I just recently purchased Photomatix and I notice you can use the tone mapping directly inside photoshop. Plus you can process those 32 bit mode HDR images in photoshop as well. |
It isn't the Photoshop per se, it's the machine and the operating system. I'm working on getting a new computer now, trying to figure out how to swing it. Then I'll mount a decent Windows on it (I am still using Windows Me) and I'll be good to go. But I don't have enough computing power right now. I'd be delighted to be working in 16-bit or 32-bit, no kidding :-)
R. |
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11/02/2006 06:28:06 PM · #20 |
Get one of them brand spankin' new Core 2 Duo's. I did. I love it!
RawShooter Premium is "fast" (especially in that the UI is always very responsive). Yet ... on my old computer, I would work my way through a couple hundred pictures with various raw adjustments and then, by the time I was done, the computer still had about an hour or two before it finished converting the images.
On my new computer (remember it has two cores!), I still have a very responsive UI, but when I'm done with all of my adjustments, RSP is only one or two images behind me. I barely have another minute or so to wait for RSP to finish! I believe the magic is in the two cores. One core is handling the UI while the other is converting the images. It's amazingly fast!
At that speed, there is absolutely *no* reason (from a workflow perspective) to not shoot raw.
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11/02/2006 06:53:31 PM · #21 |
This is my basic workflow for Portraits
1) Download RAW images from CF card with Windows Explorer.
2) Use Microsoft RAW Thumbnailer to view thumbs in Explorer.
3) Open selected thumb in CS2 ACR
4) Adjust White balance and exposure settings. No sharpening, maybe a bit of Color Noise Removal and Luminance smoothing on noisy images.
5) If noisy, run Noise Ninja --- not often
6) Levels - Auto - Enhance Monochromatic Contrast .05 Clipping on Shadows and Highlights.
7) Any other stuff I want to do including cloning, Alien Skins exposure, nlk Dynamic Skin Softener
8) Nlk Pro Contrast or Curves adjustment
9) Resize, if needed
10) Smart Sharpen or nlk Sharpener Pro
11) save as Jpeg
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11/02/2006 07:13:59 PM · #22 |
1)nikon View to copy files to a new dir. (1 per day)
1a) delete crap
2)nikon Capture to do 9/10 of all editing
2a) occasionally saving small/interesting versions for sharing /display / printing in a unrelated dir.
3)PSCS2 for 1/10 images
3a) occasionally saving small/interesting versions for sharing /display / printing in a unrelated dir.
Message edited by author 2006-11-02 19:17:50. |
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11/02/2006 07:16:13 PM · #23 |
when i shoot a job for a client, it kind of goes like this:
1) download to pc
2) make a copy of the folder (in each job folder i have "originals" and "edited")
3) open all of the "edited" folder files in Bridge (which i've just discovered)
4) delete stinkers
5) go have a sandwich
6) come back and delete the other stinkers that i was too chicken to delete before
-- let me stop here for a sec. i ALWAYS take a break when sorting through shots. most of the time i have 100+ to go through, and i KNOW the client doesn't want all of those. so i do a quickie purge of the real bad ones and then i come back and get ruthless on 'em.
7) flag favorites that might go in my portfolio
8) open remaining folders in CS2 RAW processor and correct, color correct, crop, and adjust curves
9) bop back to bridge and use the Photoshop image processor to batch them all out to TIFF files for the client
10) use Porta and simpleviewer to make a web gallery, if necessary.
11) upload with filezilla
12) drink
eating and drinking is very big with me.
edited to add: my backup software syncs all of my work files with my backup drive every night at 10pm. it's not something i do myself, but it's a HUGE part of the workflow. :)
Message edited by author 2006-11-02 19:18:16. |
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11/02/2006 08:20:39 PM · #24 |
Originally posted by muckpond:
12) drink
eating and drinking is very big with me.
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wow, you are drinking WAY TOO LATE in the workflow ;-)
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11/03/2006 10:13:45 AM · #25 |
[1] Download pics to Computer
[2] Backup pics to DVD/CD x2
[3] Backup pics to External Drive
[4] Pick keepers in Pixort (www.pixort.com)
[5] If JPEG, edit in PS - if RAW, edit with C1 and then into PS for final
[6] Once all pics edited, backup pics to DVD/CD x2
[7] Deliver to client/make prints
[8] Delete pics from Computer
Message edited by author 2006-11-03 10:14:04. |
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