Studio Lighting...What am i doing?

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM

03/13/2006 12:50:56 AM · #1

I just got a new studio and i have no idea to use my softbox.. How do i set up my camera and softbox? When i set my camera to flash mode the pictures come out very very dark. Am i missing something. I've tried various shutter speeds and end up with the same result.

idnic

Canon EOS-60D

03/13/2006 12:54:11 AM · #2

Big question, lets narrow down the issue. Is the new light (softbox) strobe (flash) or constant light? How are you tripping the strobe if it is a strobe - wired or electronic? Does D70 use ETTL flash metering? How far from your subject are you placing the softbox? Are you also using the Nikon's onboard flash?

fotomann_forever

03/13/2006 12:55:10 AM · #3

Originally posted by kostyc:

Are you in auto mode? With studio flash you will need to be in full manual mode.

PhilipDyer

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

03/13/2006 01:04:24 AM · #4

You just got a new studio without first knowing how to use studio lights? I would highly recommend getting any book on setting up lights in a studio and investing in a light meter. Two books that might be good to start with are "Basic Studio Lighting" and "Beginner's Guide to Photographic Lighting." Good luck with your new studio!

03/13/2006 01:06:20 AM · #5

I am in full manual mode. My subject is an apple using a 50mm lens. The softbox is a strobe. My flash is an sb-600 and it looks like ttl only. I am about 3 feet from my subject with the softbox about the same distance 45 degrees to the left of me & the subject. I'm not quite sure what ETTL is so. I know the strobe goes off when i use my sb-600. The only thing is i have to angle the flash strait up to avoid overexposing the shot. as far as wired or electronic it's electronic.

Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM

03/13/2006 01:08:48 AM · #6

Originally posted by PhilipDyer:

Pretty silly huh? I will definitely look into some books about lighting. I did'nt think it would be that hard to figure out. Boy was I wrong.

fotomann_forever

03/13/2006 01:09:50 AM · #7

... brb with appropriate response... need to read before I post.

Message edited by author 2006-03-13 01:13:44.

idnic

Canon EOS-60D

03/13/2006 01:11:52 AM · #8

K - right off the bat it sounds to me like the onboard flash is ETTL and is actually firing just before your strobe (its so close you'll never see it). The answer, if this is the issue, is cheap, cheap, cheap - you'll need a wire connecting camera to strobe unit. Should be about $7. Then you won't need your onboard or attached flash to trigger the strobe and the whole setup is more controlable.

That's just my guess from the few questions I asked. Feel free to PM if you wanna get more detailed.

fotomann_forever

03/13/2006 01:17:52 AM · #9

idric has the best solution to this...

Nikon's Hotshoe to PC adapter.

Use this to connect directly to your strobe.

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

03/13/2006 01:50:04 AM · #10

thanks folks. One other question for tonight... ;p. Does the aperature setting make a big difference with the strobe setting. I know it will effect the DOF. I guess my question is how do you adjust the stobe to your needs? Lets say I have a setting f/11 @ 1/250 with ISO 200. Is that a good start. I've been using f/1.8-3.2 with 1/250-500 just to see the difference.

PhilipDyer

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

03/13/2006 12:53:03 PM · #11

Originally posted by kostyc:

This may be the source of your problem. Most studio lights can't sync with your shutter at speeds any faster than 1/200 of a second. If you set your shutter speed faster than that, it will open and close before the strobe fires, which will result in a very dark picture. Find out the sync speed of your strobes and make sure that the shutter speed is no faster than that.

rebelgirl

Canon EOS-30D

03/13/2006 01:15:26 PM · #12

I bought this guys book on lighting but hey it's free online. This may help you out. You just need to register.

//www.shootsmarter.com/infocenter/cg018.html
//www.bron.ch/vt_pd_lg_sc_en/index.php

This is the most amazing thread I have seen on studio lighting. Always great to try out some of the stuff too.

//www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/144181/85

J_Ehrat

Canon EOS-5D

03/13/2006 01:45:23 PM · #13

Originally posted by kostyc:

From what I've read on the forums here, the best way to go would be to set your shutter slightly below the sync speed for the flash. In most cases that is around 1/200. So set about 1 or a half stop slower than that and use you aperature for exposure. Your shutter speeds are just to fast and the black that you are getting is from the flash firing after the shutter already closes. Hope that helps.

03/13/2006 03:04:22 PM · #14

Set the camera in Manual, lowest iso you got
1/125 or 1/160 shutter
F9-13 range so start.

the aperture is the method to control the light. you can also adjsut hte light output of most strobes on the stobe, as well as distance from the subject (double the distnace and you get 1/2 the light). I suppose the distance YOU are from the subject might efect the exposure too, but I have not tried this and never read about it either. If you turn the strobe down to 1/4 or below you will probably get inconsistent light output from shot to shot.

for most wrap around from a softbox, it should be it's own dimention form the subject (24" softbox, 24" from subject). Move it farther back and it acts like a direction light, but soft.

the best way to trigger the flash is wirelessly (see //www.pocketwizard.com/ )
Wired is the cheapest.

You might be able to use the built in on board flash - i've hear of putting ND gles over it so reduce it's output but it'll still trigger the studio flash. as i don't have ND gels, I might try taping an index card to the camera to bounce the flash anywhere but strit ahead at the subject and see if that'll trigger the flash (is should)

I ordreerd

this book based a recomendation - it should be here later this week. Check it out - looks good to me. I'll of course know more later this week.

rebelgirl

Canon EOS-30D

03/13/2006 03:07:56 PM · #15

Originally posted by Prof_Fate:

I ordreerd

this book based a recomendation - it should be here later this week. Check it out - looks good to me. I'll of course know more later this week.

Hey Chris I got that book and the link I posted above is that book for free online. But it is an excellent book.

03/13/2006 03:15:56 PM · #16

Originally posted by rebelgirl:

Originally posted by Prof_Fate:
I ordreerd

this book based a recomendation - it should be here later this week. Check it out - looks good to me. I'll of course know more later this week.

Hey Chris I got that book and the link I posted above is that book for free online. But it is an excellent book.

The links i got from your post are for his article about fashion lighting at shootsmarteru. his website lists the bookt at $30. He has some nice photos on his webiste, but i think he's had some stolen - small, BIT copywright notices - even to get access to his site you have to agree to his terms and conditions!

i learned of the book on that thread at FM you linked to. BIG thread, i rad bits and pieces but not the whole thing.

rebelgirl

Canon EOS-30D

03/13/2006 03:35:09 PM · #17

register and the lessons on the book are there. A friend showed it to me after I ordered the book. Either way you won't be disappointed.

Nikon AF Zoom-Nikkor 24-85mm f2.8-4.0D

03/14/2006 10:14:56 AM · #18

Register with Smartshooter? I am registered there. I cannot anything beyond that one article you linked to and an ad for a $50 DVD (looks interesting though)

perhaps it has been removed from their site?

Nikolai1024

Nikon D300

03/14/2006 10:33:14 AM · #19

If you have D70 with SB600 it is all you need. This is the best wireless system out there. All you've got to do is set your camera flash to be master and SB600 as remote. Set it in P mode. Don't angle your flash. Point it straight at the white area of the softbox. Once you've done that camera will comunicate with flash and with invisible pre-flashes it'll figure out all the right exposure information.

If you still having problems get rid of softbox and get everything to work without it. Then try to put flash back in the softbox.

I have SB800 + 2xSB600. It is amazing what those things can do.

Nick

Nikon AF Zoom-Nikkor 24-85mm f2.8-4.0D

03/14/2006 10:56:47 AM · #20

Originally posted by Nikolai1024:

Your saying the SB-600 will work with my onboard flash? I did not know that. I'll take a look at this when i get home. Will the SB-600 send a signal to the Strobe?

Prof_fate, I tried what you sed with the aperature and it seemed to work. All i have to do now is get a decent background. Thanks for your help.

Nikolai1024

Nikon D300

03/14/2006 11:00:27 AM · #21

Originally posted by kostyc:

Originally posted by Nikolai1024:
If you have D70 with SB600 it is all you need. This is the best wireless system out there. All you've got to do is set your camera flash to be master and SB600 as remote. Set it in P mode. Don't angle your flash. Point it straight at the white area of the softbox. Once you've done that camera will comunicate with flash and with invisible pre-flashes it'll figure out all the right exposure information.

If you still having problems get rid of softbox and get everything to work without it. Then try to put flash back in the softbox.

I have SB800 + 2xSB600. It is amazing what those things can do.

Nick

Your saying the SB-600 will work with my onboard flash? I did not know that. I'll take a look at this when i get home. Will the SB-600 send a signal to the Strobe?

Prof_fate, I tried what you sed with the aperature and it seemed to work. All i have to do now is get a decent background. Thanks for your help.

Maybe I'm not clear on your entire setup. What I'm saying is this: You can use your built in flash of D70 to trigger remote SB600. It works very well.

Nick

Message edited by author 2006-03-14 11:00:40.

03/14/2006 11:12:14 AM · #22

I'm following now. The reason i've been pointing my flash strait up was to avoid the shot being blown out. My goal is to have the strobe provide the light. I think i got it down by setting my f/stop to around 11. I took Prof_fate's advice and stayed between 60-250 so that worked out. The shots look more crisp. It's only a dinausaur but tonight i'll try a real person. We'll see. I'll get a little more brave and try two strobes and maybe an umbrella then a hairlight.

03/14/2006 11:18:58 AM · #23

Mine was a teddy bear...

I tried to get a bit fancy with 'rembrandt style' lighting.

here playing with a gel, light from behind...

If all you want is simple flat lighting, that's a piece of cake -

(on camera flash is a metz 54 w/ lightsphere, in auto mode, camera in manual with a 100ws strobe to camera left firing into a silver umbrella.
Backdrop is a sheet off my bed hung on a T shaped framework of PVC pipe stuck in the base of a worklight stand.

It's getting a bit more creative that seems to be bloody difficult!
I have crap, i mean treasures, to sell on ebay and then i'm getting a light meter and pocketwizards.

Message edited by author 2006-03-14 11:20:07.

03/14/2006 12:20:42 PM · #24

With your first shot. Did you get very dark shots? Did you use onboard flash to have the strobe go off.