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01/25/2006 03:53:58 AM · #1 |
Is red harder to shoot? it seems im having trouble with red. It just doesnt looks as bright or somthing as other colors ive shot.
 
Even this amber color has a better glow to it then the red. The red just looks dull and lifeless.
Message edited by author 2006-01-25 03:58:23. |
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01/25/2006 03:55:23 AM · #2 |
Is your WB set correctly? Just a thought. I shot this recently. No problems here.
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01/25/2006 04:12:07 AM · #3 |
| I tried to re calibrate the WB but it does seem the blue one has a blueish ir purple WB maybe that has somthing to do with it? |
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01/25/2006 04:15:35 AM · #4 |
Red isn't as bright -- it is perceptually darker than blue, and certainly perceive as darker than amber.
If the blue was shot in the same light as the others, the color seems to be off.
David
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01/25/2006 04:16:25 AM · #5 |
| yeah the blue definitely has a purple tint to it... hmmm worth investigating this one :) |
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01/25/2006 04:24:57 AM · #6 |
What type of light do you use? Flash would produce pretty white light (all wavelengths).
Whereas other types of light can have another spectrum that don´t always match the red-gren-blue filters of the cmos/ccd.
The white balance can compensate for some of this but not always everything. |
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01/25/2006 04:28:36 AM · #7 |
Ive tried everything, its almost like the blue is glowing and casting a blue on the back drop. Maybe i should put the blue one up there, recalibrate the WB then bring in the red one? because ive tried all the other settings and i cant get that same kind of BG color as i did with the blue one.
I am using all the same lights, but where i had them positioned im not sure. I have moved them but will that really matter? i mean matter alot? I shot the amber one with the same lights also and it doesnt have that same purple color te blue one did.
I thought maybe there is some trick to shooting red just because of its color frequency or somthign funky like that? |
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01/25/2006 04:32:17 AM · #8 |
Could it be the lens? I noticed over the weekend shooting an Egyptian Ibis that I was getting more of an orange tone than my friend. We were both using Nikon D70 with auto WB. I have a Sigma 170-500mm and he has a Nikon 80-400VR. In PS I could get the same colours as his by shifting the Hue.
I would post an example but it seems I am not allowed to... |
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01/25/2006 04:47:34 AM · #9 |
| Its the same camera, P&S canon A510. Maybe the blue one looks better because they were freshly charged batteries? :P |
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01/25/2006 04:49:25 AM · #10 |
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01/25/2006 04:51:23 AM · #11 |
Originally posted by wsteyn:
I would post an example but it seems I am not allowed to... |
LOL! |
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01/25/2006 05:29:06 AM · #12 |
If you are using auto WB you are GOING to have shifts in the BG color from shot to shot, because the camera is assuming that mixing all the colors in your image together in a paint can would produce a neutral color. Indeed, I can see variation in the BG color between the red shots and the amber shots; it's just not as pronhounced as the variation with the blue, because they are closer in hue to each other. Auto WB absolutely stinks for product photography in general, because it will produce a different WB for every different product color (assuming the product dominates the grame) and make matching of BG color an absolute nightmare of post-processing.
So you need to set a custom WB (assuming your camera is capable of it) and use that for all the shots under the same lights. If you can't do custom WB, then you need to pick the nearest match of what's available to you and use that consistently (probably tungsten in your case if you're using incandescent bulbs) and then apply the same PP color-cast corrections in a batch to every shot from your series, then use the corrected shots as the bases from which to work.
This of course is one of the reasons we use RAW: we can apply WB after the fact, and batch-process a whole series of images to the same observed WB. I don't know if your camera does RAW, though, or if you want to mess with it.
In my experience red is one of the most difficult colors to reproduce well anyway in the digital workflow; if you try to saturate it, it goes flat amazingly fast and looks very artificial. So you're dealing with a known problem here. Rikki's beautiful reds aren't a fair comparison becase they are refracted reds, they have a built-in luminance.
Robt. |
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01/25/2006 07:19:24 AM · #13 |
I always set my camera to -2 saturation if I want to capture the subtleties in solid blocks of colour.
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