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DPChallenge Forums >> Out and About >> Photoshop Basics Mentorship Group: Workflow Thread
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Showing posts 51 - 75 of 155, (reverse)
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09/26/2005 01:10:22 AM · #51
Bear I did the assignment but I don't know how to post my pic in the forum. Can this be done if you are a non paying DPC member?
09/26/2005 01:18:04 AM · #52
Originally posted by Troutbear:

Bear I did the assignment but I don't know how to post my pic in the forum. Can this be done if you are a non paying DPC member?


If it is hosted elsewhere on the web, yes; you can link to it. There's a tutorial in DOC telling you how I believe, or a help topic. If I get around to digging it up I'll post it here. If your image is not hosted on a server somewhere ont he web, no.

It's not required to "do" assignments anyway, like I'm grading or anything. I'm sure a lot of non-posters are following along. I hope so anyway, 'cuz this is a LOT of work for just half a dozen regulars LOL.

R.
09/26/2005 01:43:43 AM · #53
True, True. I am not hosting it else where but perhaps I could post it on buzznet and then do it. I know your not grading but it would nice to be able to get your feed back.
09/26/2005 04:15:41 AM · #54
Originally posted by bear_music:

...I'm sure a lot of non-posters are following along. I hope so anyway, 'cuz this is a LOT of work for just half a dozen regulars LOL.

R.


hehehe, I'm sure there are many of us :-) This is great stuff Robert! I'm definitely following along as my weird and non-regular schedule allows. Thank-you very much, you ROCK!!!
09/26/2005 05:14:36 AM · #55
That was really interesting. I've been using ps, but don't understand it. Workflow for me is usually...

Working with a copy of the jpeg, open new background layer and play with it....tweaking this and that. If it works I'll merge the layer, if it doesn't I delete and try something else. Haven't really used the adjustment layers before.


09/26/2005 06:48:48 AM · #56
Hi Robert - I've most definitely been following along, there's some great stuff here. I'm just lurking not posting; up until now that is!

I'm coming out of the woodwork with a correction;

Originally posted by bear_music:

See my point? Levels make sense. They allow us to fiddle with impunity, secure in the knowledge that we can just toss the offending level altogether and it will be as if it had not happened.


Levels? Or Layers? :-)
09/26/2005 02:52:05 PM · #57
DOH! I'll fix it... Thanx.

R.
09/27/2005 05:26:57 PM · #58
OK, here are my tries:



I manage to get there, but would also like to know what the relative/absolute button does and what the exact effect difference is between selective color and hue/saturation, or maybe that is not part of this workshop? Great way to exercise, anyway! Thanks Robert!
09/27/2005 05:36:53 PM · #59
Originally posted by ajschel:


I manage to get there, but would also like to know what the relative/absolute button does and what the exact effect difference is between selective color and hue/saturation, or maybe that is not part of this workshop? Great way to exercise, anyway! Thanks Robert!


The difference between selective color and hue/saturation, functionally, is that selective color is a magnified version of the "hue" slider in hue/saturation. It's VERY difficult in hue/saturation to fine-tune the actual hues in a given color channel; like if you need to correct your white balance. Also, and very significantly, selective color allows you to apply color shifts to ranges of tonalities regardless of what co9lor they are, and do it very subtly. You can adjust white, neutral, and black channels. This is extremely valuable in adding tonality and color to slightly blown-out highlights.

I'm not an expert on "why" realtive is different than absolute in selective color, but practically speaking relative is more subtle. To see the difference, try adjusting the yellow slider in the yellow channel in relative and then absolute modes. In an imnage that has significant amounts of yellow, of course...

In a nutshell, I use selective color to adjust the hues of the various color channels, and hue/saturation to adjust the intensity of the color. If I want my blue to be more saturated, I go to hue/saturation. If I want it to shift towards the cooler range of blue (if it's too warm, too greenish) I do that in selective color then fiddle the saturation of the result in hue/saturation.

Robt.
09/27/2005 05:51:59 PM · #60
Originally posted by bear_music:

Originally posted by ajschel:


....... would also like to know what the relative/absolute button does and what the exact effect difference is between selective color and hue/saturation....

...........In a nutshell, I use selective color to adjust the hues of the various color channels, and hue/saturation to adjust the intensity of the color.....
Robt.


Aha! Thanks ... only practical explanation I've ever heard! Please don't give up, bear ... look how many people are reading this thread!
Edit: spelling.

Message edited by author 2005-09-27 17:53:10.
09/27/2005 06:08:28 PM · #61
Indeed, a very practical explanation, and that's the strength of this thread, IMO. Keep on throwing it at us, please!
09/28/2005 12:17:25 AM · #62
Another lurker thoroughly enjoying the lessons with a question...

How did you go about applying the unsharpen mask. Did you do it before manipulating the layers, or did you flatten the image first. If you did it before flattening, did you do it to the base layer?
09/28/2005 12:50:06 AM · #63
Originally posted by bear_music:

Originally posted by ajschel:


I manage to get there, but would also like to know what the relative/absolute button does and what the exact effect difference is between selective color and hue/saturation, or maybe that is not part of this workshop? Great way to exercise, anyway! Thanks Robert!


The difference between selective color and hue/saturation, functionally, is that selective color is a magnified version of the "hue" slider in hue/saturation. It's VERY difficult in hue/saturation to fine-tune the actual hues in a given color channel; like if you need to correct your white balance. Also, and very significantly, selective color allows you to apply color shifts to ranges of tonalities regardless of what co9lor they are, and do it very subtly. You can adjust white, neutral, and black channels. This is extremely valuable in adding tonality and color to slightly blown-out highlights.

I'm not an expert on "why" realtive is different than absolute in selective color, but practically speaking relative is more subtle. To see the difference, try adjusting the yellow slider in the yellow channel in relative and then absolute modes. In an imnage that has significant amounts of yellow, of course...

In a nutshell, I use selective color to adjust the hues of the various color channels, and hue/saturation to adjust the intensity of the color. If I want my blue to be more saturated, I go to hue/saturation. If I want it to shift towards the cooler range of blue (if it's too warm, too greenish) I do that in selective color then fiddle the saturation of the result in hue/saturation.

Robt.

I hope I'm not guilty of leading away from the main thrust of your discussion, but could you give your view of the advantages of using selective color over using the levels gamma slider for each channel to adjust the WB.

David
09/28/2005 12:53:44 AM · #64
Originally posted by Britannica:


I hope I'm not guilty of leading away from the main thrust of your discussion, but could you give your view of the advantages of using selective color over using the levels gamma slider for each channel to adjust the WB.

David


It's more intuitive. This is "basic" photoshop. I agree that gamma in levels is a better way but we're not at that degree of sophistication here yet.

R.
09/28/2005 12:57:27 AM · #65
Originally posted by decadentsavant:

Another lurker thoroughly enjoying the lessons with a question...

How did you go about applying the unsharpen mask. Did you do it before manipulating the layers, or did you flatten the image first. If you did it before flattening, did you do it to the base layer?


We'll get to that in the next lesson, when we start to discuss "workflow" (i.e. order of steps) in earnest. As a matter of practice I do my sharpening on a duplicate layer from BG, but we're working to "basic editing" rules here so we'll be doing it on the base layer. I'll mention the dupe layer approach though. As to WHEN I apply sharpening, that depends on whether it's a RAW image or a jpeg that's already sharpened in-camera.

R.
09/28/2005 01:08:06 AM · #66
Originally posted by bear_music:

Originally posted by Britannica:


I hope I'm not guilty of leading away from the main thrust of your discussion, but could you give your view of the advantages of using selective color over using the levels gamma slider for each channel to adjust the WB.

David


It's more intuitive. This is "basic" photoshop. I agree that gamma in levels is a better way but we're not at that degree of sophistication here yet.

R.

Whoops, then I'm not only guilty of sidetracking, but also of learning in the wrong order. I'll look into selective color. :D

David
09/28/2005 06:43:05 AM · #67
Ok, I had a crack at this:



Not exactly the same, but fairly close. The second is less accurate as it builds on the inaccuracies of the first.

David
09/28/2005 11:38:34 AM · #68
Originally posted by Britannica:

Ok, I had a crack at this:



Not exactly the same, but fairly close. The second is less accurate as it builds on the inaccuracies of the first.

David


Close enough for government work. I'm working on the next installment now. Stay tuned and get receptive, everyone....

R.

09/28/2005 11:40:12 AM · #69
I am standing by waiting for your words of wisdom.
09/28/2005 02:06:03 PM · #70
Another lurker reading this thread and learning...one question: do you color correct using AdobeRGB or sRGB in Photoshop?
09/28/2005 02:13:52 PM · #71
Originally posted by dragonlady:

Another lurker reading this thread and learning...one question: do you color correct using AdobeRGB or sRGB in Photoshop?


I mostly work in the sRGB colorspace because most of what I do is destined for web viewing primarily. I have another, custom colorspace for my printer. So images that will be printed I convert to that colorspace and adjust as needed. It doesn't take long at all.

Adobe RGB is frustrating for me to work with because it doesn't convert especially well down to sRGB; it's much easier for me to convert up to a larger gamut than down to the narrower one.

R.
09/28/2005 03:12:48 PM · #72
Originally posted by pawdrix:

Hey Robert- How do you keep an entire History of your work flow? I find that as I'm doing things, the earlier steps in my process dissapear and I can't go back to the beginning.

I don't think this has been answered so here goes.

It sounds as if you haven't found "Adjustment Layers" yet? These contain no pixels (and so qualify as OK under the Basic Rules) but they apply your fiddling to the underlying image and can be turned off, undone or readjusted at any time.

You can have multiple adjustment layers of the same type in an image. For example you can have several Hue or Color Balance adjustment layers in the one image. Perhaps you have wanted to adjust the red hues - you name an adjustment layer "Red Hues" and then you can fiddle with another colour by creating say a "Blue Hues" adjustment layer.

In this way, you can go back as far and as often as you like. The setting you applied are displayed as sliders so at any time you can apply furthwer adjustments. It takes all the presure off you from having to reember what you did at each step.

Brett
09/28/2005 03:18:13 PM · #73
Originally posted by bear_music:


I have another, custom colorspace for my printer. So images that will be printed I convert to that colorspace and adjust as needed. It doesn't take long at all. R.


Sorry for being off topic but how does one go about making a custom colorspace?

thx
Michael
09/28/2005 03:42:40 PM · #74
Originally posted by KiwiPix:

Originally posted by pawdrix:

Hey Robert- How do you keep an entire History of your work flow? I find that as I'm doing things, the earlier steps in my process dissapear and I can't go back to the beginning.

I don't think this has been answered so here goes.

It sounds as if you haven't found "Adjustment Layers" yet? These contain no pixels (and so qualify as OK under the Basic Rules) but they apply your fiddling to the underlying image and can be turned off, undone or readjusted at any time.

You can have multiple adjustment layers of the same type in an image. For example you can have several Hue or Color Balance adjustment layers in the one image. Perhaps you have wanted to adjust the red hues - you name an adjustment layer "Red Hues" and then you can fiddle with another colour by creating say a "Blue Hues" adjustment layer.

In this way, you can go back as far and as often as you like. The setting you applied are displayed as sliders so at any time you can apply furthwer adjustments. It takes all the presure off you from having to reember what you did at each step.

Brett


In "Preferences/General" you can set the number of history states retained by Photoshop. I have mine set at 100. Default is 30, I believe. More is always better, with the caveat that more history states = higher memory use, so it may slow the program down, depending on how powerful your machine is.

Also, bear in mind that history states are discarded when you close the image, while layers are retained. There's another feature called "snapshots" that allows you to preserve a given history state. But this isn't "basic Photoshop" and we're not gonna go there right now.

Kiwi's advice is good.

R.
09/28/2005 03:44:58 PM · #75
Originally posted by Refwhett:

Originally posted by bear_music:


I have another, custom colorspace for my printer. So images that will be printed I convert to that colorspace and adjust as needed. It doesn't take long at all. R.


Sorry for being off topic but how does one go about making a custom colorspace?

thx
Michael


That's WAY off topic and it's very complex. You can google it if you like. We won't be going there. In the case of printers, the manufacturers provide custom color spaces for their printers; you can download them from the manufacturer's web site. In a related vein, all the big paper manufacturers provide "printer profiles" for each type of paper they use.

R.
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