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11/04/2002 04:57:46 PM · #1 |
Feel free to add your macro hints to this thread:
Use a tripod if you have one.
Use a remote control/ timer/ cable release if you have one.
Any shake/vibration gets really magnified along with your subject.
Depth of field is in short supply, if you want it all sharp, have the subject parallel to the lens/ sensor plane, otherwise you'll get
blurred items (which is also fine!) |
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11/04/2002 05:01:58 PM · #2 |
When using a tripod, I have successfully used aperture priority and macro mode to create some deep depth of field in a macro... It's definitely worth playing with.
Tips:
As Gordon said, use a tripod... Switch to aperture priority mode... stop down as far as you can... use NO zoom...
Short focal length and small apertures produce more depth of field...
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11/04/2002 05:11:08 PM · #3 |
dont forget that if u use a small aperture to get a lot of depth of field (remember, that means a higher number), you'll need either a loooong shutter speed, or a lot of light.
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11/04/2002 08:02:15 PM · #4 |
Excellent tips.. anymore? Wanted to be sure to bump this thread.
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11/04/2002 11:25:10 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by Karen Bryan:
Excellent tips.. anymore? Wanted to be sure to bump this thread.
Good thinking Karen!!!
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11/05/2002 01:32:03 AM · #6 |
The key to macro photography is to get close to your subject..lol
seriously there macro lights that mount on the lens because when you shoot real close the subject sometimes is darkened by the shadow caused by the camera
or just use another light source tripod ect most cameras have the timing feature which i used to eliminate shake and you can get your butt out of the way of the incoming light!
there are also less expensive lenses that mount on the exisiting lens that create the macro effect. Last thing, don't forget to zoom on the already close pic with your software to see if you can get a more 'blown up' pic and crop crop crop
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11/05/2002 07:24:48 AM · #7 |
When doing insects and spiders (they are going to pretty dopey this time of year) go for a longer shutter rather than stronger light. Strong light creates loads on hot spots and glare on hairs and wings. Longer shutter can give blur from wind and other movement, so pick a cold and windless day.
Also, try not to breath on them, as this tends to alarm them. |
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11/06/2002 02:02:26 AM · #8 |
| So that is what I have been doing wrong! *covers his mouth and nose* |
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11/06/2002 09:59:36 AM · #9 |
To achieve better magnification use close-up diopters in various sizes +1, +2, +4...etc. The one thing about them is that they do tend to warp the edges a bit especially if you stack a lot on.
Alternatively pick up an auxillary macro add-on lens such as
Olympus A-Macro (49mm), Olympus B-Macro(55mm), Olympus MCON-35/MCON-40 (thread?)
Canon and others also make two element macro lenses that are of excellent quality.
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11/06/2002 10:52:31 AM · #10 |
Originally posted by psychephylax:
To achieve better magnification use close-up diopters in various sizes +1, +2, +4...etc. The one thing about them is that they do tend to warp the edges a bit especially if you stack a lot on.
I think part of the secret is you have to stack them in the correct
order. I believe this is highest number closest to the camera... |
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11/06/2002 10:54:36 AM · #11 |
Sometimes, its easy to be too close to the subject... at which point your camera won't be able to focus on the subject at all! Check your camera's minimum focus length, and make sure you situate your camera at least that distance away from the subject. Now that you can focus, set macro mode and use zoom to really get in on the subject. Minimum focus length might be 1 or 2 feet away, but the zoom should bring you right in on the subject.
--csb |
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11/06/2002 02:13:28 PM · #12 |
| I see conflicting advice on using or not using zoom to shoot macros. Would you experienced folks sort this out for we amateurs. |
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11/06/2002 02:28:57 PM · #13 |
Macro usually works best without using the zoom. Just get your camera as close as its focussing will allow. I was shooting slides on a light box when I discovered that it didn't work to try to use the zoom so I just positioned my camera about 3/4 on an inch away from the slide and used autofocus to focus. Since I was shooting a flat object I felt that I couldn't do any better then the cameras autofocus. Keep in mind that in Macro even F8 can produce a very shallow DOF. An aperture larger then that can be very hard to control accurately. With some cameras that are fully automatic it may be beneficial to use a lot of light to try to reduce the size of the aperture to increase DOF.
T
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11/06/2002 03:12:24 PM · #14 |
Tends to be that the further you are zoomed in, the harder it is to get focused. However wide angle to zoom gives a different type of shot than just moving the camera due to the zoom compression effects. Depends how you want the shot to look. Also lenses tend to distort more when zoomed in to the extreme or open as wide as possible.
Same goes for aperture. If your camera has settings from f2 to f8,
f8 will give you the deepest DoF. f5.6 or so will probably give you
the sharpest overall image though. |
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11/06/2002 05:30:30 PM · #15 |
If you have this problem you can get away from it by using a closeup macro lens and cut the distance by half or more.
Originally posted by csb:
Sometimes, its easy to be too close to the subject... at which point your camera won't be able to focus on the subject at all! Check your camera's minimum focus length, and make sure you situate your camera at least that distance away from the subject. Now that you can focus, set macro mode and use zoom to really get in on the subject. Minimum focus length might be 1 or 2 feet away, but the zoom should bring you right in on the subject.
--csb
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11/06/2002 06:37:02 PM · #16 |
| Thanks Tim, Gordon and Pag. |
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11/07/2002 09:17:19 AM · #17 |
don't listen to me.. .monkeys fly out of my ass on a daily basis
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11/07/2002 10:07:02 AM · #18 |
will you please take a picture?
: )
Originally posted by csb:
don't listen to me.. .monkeys fly out of my ass on a daily basis
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11/07/2002 10:47:13 AM · #19 |
Not if your camera won't allow you to attach lenses you can't. ;-)
I've a feeling that those of us without this ability may not do so well with this challenge. Either that or I'll have to find some talent from somewhere, but maybe my camera hasn't got a thread to attach that either! ;-))
Tim
Originally posted by paganini:
If you have this problem you can get away from it by using a closeup macro lens and cut the distance by half or more.
Originally posted by csb:
[i]Sometimes, its easy to be too close to the subject... at which point your camera won't be able to focus on the subject at all! Check your camera's minimum focus length, and make sure you situate your camera at least that distance away from the subject. Now that you can focus, set macro mode and use zoom to really get in on the subject. Minimum focus length might be 1 or 2 feet away, but the zoom should bring you right in on the subject.
--csb
[/i]
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11/07/2002 11:05:11 AM · #20 |
If your camera dosn't have a macro function try using a plain old magnifying glass just the way you might use it for reading the small print. Check focus and fraiming with the cameras LCD viewer.
A tripod or other means of steading the camera and a bright light source are always helpfull in getting the sharpest images.
* This message has been edited by the author on 11/7/2002 11:04:12 AM. |
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11/07/2002 11:39:41 AM · #21 |
Lot of great info here. Thank you guys!
I can put lenses on mine but can't afford them right now so.... for those of you that are stuck in the same situation....
even with my macro feature I can't get in as close as I would like (with auto focus) so zooming in works wonders for me. Check out my pins pic in the light source week
PINS
Of course a tripod is a must and i do well with my mini one.
Good luck all! |
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11/07/2002 04:28:35 PM · #22 |
| It would really help your lighting on macro wildlife shots if your flash was on a bracket and held at a 30 degree angle or so off to the side. and dial in your smallest aperture. Myself, i will use anything from F-64 to f-11 when shooting macro wild life subjects |
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11/07/2002 11:47:09 PM · #23 |
Do any of you have a stand, tripod, technique to hold the camera directly over and close to the subject? Whatever I try I either can't get close enough to the subject or something gets in the way. I'm trying to point the camera straight down and close to the subject.
I have a tripod but the center post is over 12 inches long and that keeps the camera way to far from the subject.
* This message has been edited by the author on 11/7/2002 11:45:25 PM. |
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11/07/2002 11:57:19 PM · #24 |
couldn't you cut a hole for the lens in a piece (or layer of pieces) of cardboard or something on a supported platform and support the camera over the subject that way?
just a thought...
james. |
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11/08/2002 12:02:12 AM · #25 |
| I guess I could build something. I'm thinking of using a few bricks on the floor and a board across them. That way I could adjust the height by adding or taking away bricks. |
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