How to shoot better action shots?

07/23/2005 05:24:37 PM · #1

I like taking photos of bike races and have always been so-so successful with taking photos of riders passing by at great neck speeds. Any suggestions on how to improve my technique?

Would you use flash to stop the motion?

Thanks in advance for any help or comments to improve my photos.

GoldBerry

Canon EOS-5D Mark II

Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM

07/23/2005 05:28:44 PM · #2

no flash, super duper fast shutter and try to fill your frame more..maybe? I haven't mastered it yet either..just some suggestions. Sports photography is brutal but rewarding!

kyebosh

Canon EF 80-200 f/2.8L

07/23/2005 05:34:43 PM · #3

flash cannot stop the motion during the day. If you want to freeze action shoot at over 1/500 and still follow the riders (panning). To show action motion do 1/50-1/125 and again follow the riders. I would use flash as fill if you've got enough power, but that limits you to only 1 shot (with flash).

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Message edited by author 2005-07-23 17:54:25.

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

07/23/2005 05:39:18 PM · #4

Speaking of cycling...GO LANCE! Congratulations on winning your 7th consecutive Tour de France.

Gordon

RIM BlackBerry Curve

Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM

07/23/2005 05:40:33 PM · #5

Watch your backgrounds - pick a spot that'll get you a clean or appropriate setting (e.g., no cones sneaking in the corners)

Get close enough or use a long enough lens to crop in tightly. Use flash, particularly on a sunny day to fill in / open the shadows a bit (high speed flash if you can - not really to stop the motion)

A bit of motion isn't a bad thing - learn to pan smoothly - much like a golf swing.

Focus on the front wheel, so that by the time you shoot, the face will be in focus. Fast shutters if you don't want blur. Try forgetting about auto focus and either focus on a spot and shoot as the rider gets there ('zone' focus) or manually follow the focus as they come towards you.

Change your location - shoot from above, or below.

eggv

Canon EOS-1D Mark IIn

07/23/2005 06:20:15 PM · #6

Fast shutter speeds, pan, long lens, and yes a good speedlite will help get rid of mid day/early afternoon shadows. Kinda like Gordon said:)

Oh yeah, and if your a real cycling fan try not to get too excited... high heart rate, out of breath. That can kill an otherwise good shot.

Message edited by author 2005-07-23 18:27:30.

SDW

Canon EOS-60D

Tamron AF 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di LD Aspherical IF for Canon

07/23/2005 06:36:08 PM · #7

Originally posted by eggv:

Fast shutter speeds, pan, long lens, and yes a good speedlite will help get rid of mid day/early afternoon shadows. Kinda like Gordon said:)

This image is nice but would of been awesome with motion blur (pan) and a little slower shutter to give the wheels motion. Just my opinion, I just wish I was good enough to get this kind of shot...great job.

ph223048

Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di for Canon

07/23/2005 06:55:12 PM · #8

Set your camera to the fastest shutter speed using your AV mode. I do this for a living and this is the best way. Set ISO to 200 too. A fast lense helps as well, such as a Canon 70-200/2.8 and a 28-75/ 2.8 by Tamron or the comparable Canon. Sport shooting is expensive, but the best lense for indoors is the Canon EF 50/1.8 which only sells for around $100. When indoors set your ISO to 800 or 400 and your shutter speed to around 250. Remember the higher the ISO the more noise you will have. All of these settings are done without a flash, since most sports do not allow a flash, due to blinding of players. Also on your exposure settings, usually 2 cliks to the left (2/3 of 1 full) will give you a good exposure that will balance out when auto levels are ran with PS.

eggv

Canon EOS-1D Mark IIn

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

07/23/2005 07:03:45 PM · #9

[/quote]
This image is nice but would of been awesome with motion blur (pan) and a little slower shutter to give the wheels motion. [/quote]

I agree 100% but slower shutters tend to lower the good:bad ratio that you might pull from a day of racing. I mean even Graham or Casy don't shoot the low % shots that often. Check out Graham Watsons shots of today's TT (Tour de France).... Nice bokeh but not much motion blur
Graham Watson Cycling Photography

Message edited by author 2005-07-23 20:33:10.

SDW

Canon EOS-60D

Tamron AF 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di LD Aspherical IF for Canon

07/23/2005 07:05:42 PM · #10

Originally posted by ph223048:

Thanks for the info. I have Canon 70-200mm F4 L is that fast enough? I also have the Canon 50mm F/1.8 II.

07/23/2005 07:23:19 PM · #11

Originally posted by ph223048:

Thanks for all the comments! This is why I joined DPC to begin with :) I have a 28-70mm f2.8 Sigma Lens and the next fastest and longer lens I have is the Tamron 28-300 F3.5 XR Di macro. Are these lenses sufficient?

With regards to the increased heart rate... well that's a little tough especially for me. I'm a true cycling fan and you know what I mean if you are as well :)

ph223048

Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di for Canon

07/23/2005 07:29:43 PM · #12

The f4 is fast enough for outside, but you might see some problems during morning and evening if there are alot of buildings around. The other lenses should work fine for both of you. The lower the AV, the more natural light you will obtain through the lense. f4 and f3.5 will work outside, but not inside without a flash. Spend the extra money on the pros choice, you will not be unhappy. I spent my money on the less expensive lenses and my business stayed the same. I spent the extra money on Ebay, and my sales increased 22.5%. Therefore I made my money back!

Azrifel

Nikon Coolpix P340

07/23/2005 07:38:33 PM · #13

Originally posted by ph223048:

Set your camera to the fastest shutter speed using your AV mode.

Surely you want some background motion blur by panning the subject with a relatively slow shutterspeed.
In my experience 1/500s is actually to fast for MotoGP motorcyle racing (up to 340 km/h). 1/250s for a bicycle racer is pretty fast in that respect.

Azrifel

Nikon Coolpix P340

07/23/2005 07:38:58 PM · #14

Flash could work but remember to set it to rear curtain sync.

eggv

Canon EOS-1D Mark IIn

Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM

07/23/2005 09:39:34 PM · #15

I just felt the need to say that companies like Cervillo, Bontrager, Snow Valley, and Lemond (in general) don�t really care about the artsy (Motion blur) aspect of a photo. What they really want to see is their name published. Don�t� let this very small cross section, (DPChallenge) of the photo viewing public influence you away from taking the money shot! It all depends on the type of photographs you want to make. While I truly love this community and what it has offered me in the short time I�ve been here, I believe there is much more out there than what is depicted here. Real is real. Art is art. Its� all good.

kyebosh

Canon EF 80-200 f/2.8L

07/23/2005 11:01:01 PM · #16

I snatched this one up tonight