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DPChallenge Forums >> Tips, Tricks, and Q&A >> Blurring backgrounds in photoshop
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04/13/2003 01:25:01 AM · #1
Can someone explain how to (or create a tutorial on = ) blurring the background of a portrait in photoshop? Unless I use macro mode on a subject with the background far away, I can't get a decent blur behind my subject (a limitation of almost all DC's from what I've read). I've read the tutorial on blurring the whole photo to create a mood, but I would like to leave the subject relatively sharp, leaving the background more blurred.

Also, can someone explain how to combine two images (ie, one under exposed and one over exposed) into one to better capture the highlights? For example, a technique that could improve the underexposure of this shot of mine:



Thanks for any suggestions, I'm still learning my way around image editing.

Message edited by author 2003-04-13 01:26:55.
04/13/2003 01:53:30 AM · #2
I would like to tackle this one. I will prepare a summary in the following message. It will take a little time so just in case someone was already preparing something already. But then, more than one write wouldn't hurt either.

T
04/13/2003 04:21:40 AM · #3
Here is your pic after I did a very quick edit to lighten the dark areas:



I did this by creating a new layer and changing the mode to "overlay"
I then painted with white over the right side and the bridge, and painted in light grey over other areas to slightly darken & add contrast. There are many many ways to do this. Combining images is one way, as you suggested. Painting can give you more control, however, if you know what you're doing.
04/13/2003 04:23:53 AM · #4
Pbase photos

These are some basic steps for blurring a background such as in a portrait photo while maintaining sharpness in the main subject. I am also submitting this information for an official tutorial. I would have posted the photos here to make it easier but I am not sure how and it might have been too many photos. So please forgive me if this is a little awkward or hard to follow.

There are many more elaborate methods but I feel that this method will be easy to learn for someone relatively new to this kind of image editing.

Start by doing some general enhancements such as levels or color correcting on your image to start off with an image that already looks good. Make a quick Save As at this point and at other key points along the way making sure it is a separate name from its original name. I am going to use a photo I took of my dog Bear to illustrate some of the steps as we go.

(see BearOriginal)

My intent here, since Bear is sitting in the grass, is to make the background begin to blur at a point on grass just beyond where he is sitting. This will be a slightly more dramatic blur than I would normally apply to help illustrate my points. To do this I first create a duplicate layer. The background layer will serve as the background with the blur and the duplicate layer will contain only the dog in sharp focus. Since the background will need to fade from a sharp foreground to a blurred background I am going to create a third new layer where I will create a colored gradient that I can make a selection from. I will explain. (Where some people use the masking tools I find it easier to simply create another layer with a gradient. It accomplishes the same thing). Create the new layer above the background layer as shown and then choose any bright color you want as your foreground color. Now select the gradient tool, choose Foreground to Transparent in the gradient editor, and apply it as shown. You will probably need to experiment a little with the amount of fade to the gradient but for now I am just using its default setting. If you hold down the Shift key while you are using the gradient tool it will constrain the direction either vertically or horizontally. The color of the gradient will represent where the background will be blurred and as it fades to transparent it will represent where the background remains sharp.

(see Blur01)

Now that I have made the gradient I will select it by holding down the Control key and clicking once on the gradient layer in the Layers menu. Notice how it is selected. With the gradient still selected I turn off the gradient layer and select the Background layer and apply a Guassean filter to the layer. I applied a radius of 50 for this exercise. Notice how it only blurred the background where the gradient was visible. It is suppose to blur the dog also on this layer. I can now deselect the selection.

(see Blur02)

I now turn the duplicated layer back on. Suddenly everything is in focus again. What needs to be done now is to remove everything around the dog and there are several ways of doing this. I could simply erase out the background or better yet I will use the Polygonal Lasso Tool with the Feather set to between 2 and 5 (this is dependent on the amount of pixels in the image. Larger images may need a larger amount). I make a selection around the dog staying several pixels outside of him. Using this selection tool will probably takes some practice and it is important to be slow and methodical. Now I go to Select>Inverse to inverse the selection and hit Delete to remove it. If your picture contains a hard edge image you can set the feather amount to 0 and select very close to the edge to speed things up. In the case of this furry dog I gave myself some room to work with so that I could finish the edges with the eraser tool.

(see Blur03)

At this point I normally use my pen tablet to have maximum control over the eraser tool but for this excercise I am simply choosing some small sized soft edged brushes and quickly erasing the remaining background. Be sure to expriment with the opacity settings for the eraser tool so that you can be careful not to erase to much at a time. Small strokes work better then trying to erase a large amount at once. sometimes I may need to go back several steps in the History menu to redo some areas.

(see Blur04)

It is starting to look pretty good and this would be all you would need to do for many applications but with this particular subject I don't like the dark blurring of the dog that is still showing from the background layer. I can fix this by turning off the duplicate layer and cloning out the dog completely or at least the area that is visible.

(see Blur05)

Now all I need to do is turn the duplicate layer back on delete the layer with the gradient and merge the layers. That's it. Now you can resize it, crop it further or save it as a separate jpeg file.

(see BearFinal)

I know this does not specifically address the issue of combining two photos with different exposure values but I think you can see how it can be accomplished by using layers and erasing out areas of the image to allow the bottom layer to show through.

I hope this helps.

T

Message edited by author 2003-04-13 04:34:06.
04/13/2003 06:57:26 AM · #5
Excellent tutorial, Tim!
04/13/2003 07:11:09 AM · #6
Wow Tim! You da man. I can't to try it out.

Thanks.
04/13/2003 07:44:48 AM · #7
wow timj351......thanks for that brilliant tutorial , i hope you may give us some more tips im the near future.
04/13/2003 08:23:05 AM · #8
Maverick,

here's some links to Web tutorials dealing with dynamic range (blended exposures and contract masking):

//luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/blended_exposures.shtml

//luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/contrast_masking.shtml

//www.vinberg.nu/photography/articles/technique/contrastmasking/contrast_masking.htm
04/13/2003 09:50:40 AM · #9
That contrast masking is a nice technique - one Ive just tried with some of my own images and I'm delighted with the results.

I'm right in thinking that this would be an illegal technique in DPC though yes?

John
04/13/2003 10:02:34 AM · #10
I guess so, because it uses layers.
04/13/2003 10:25:54 AM · #11
Originally posted by Galina:

I guess so, because it uses layers.


I'm not sure it's the use of layers per se that is the problem. It's the fact that the effect is applied in different amounts to different parts of the image. It's a shame because this technique greatly improves my weather shot.

Ah well - I'll submit the legal version and perhaps if I remember I can post the improved version and lament with everyone afterwards :)

John
04/13/2003 10:39:58 AM · #12
Thanks Tim and everyone else, those are all very helpful tips.
04/13/2003 11:21:48 AM · #13
Quite a coincidence you asked about combining photos of different exposures because I just posted to this forum Camera and Software showing the two photos I took with different exposures and combined into one. A tripod is necessary because you need the two photos to exactly match. The first, I exposed the sky, the second the trees. In PS, I opened both photos and dragged the lighter photo on top of the one with the correct sky exposure. In order to make sure they match up perfectly, I temporarily lowered the opacity of the top layer and then nudged it into place. With the eraser tool at 50% and with a large, soft, round brush, I erased the upper part of the top layer to reveal the sky and peaks underneath. It takes a little practice to get it just right but it's worth it. Your photo is a perfect example of how this technique would be of use.
04/13/2003 11:42:50 AM · #14
In PS7 make a copy of the photo under the layers pallet. Under the drop down box which reads normal choose screen. This will lighten underexposed shots. You can use the slider to adjust. If need you, can make multiple copies of the new layer to add more light.
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