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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> Panasonic FZ20 - sharpness control setting ques.
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Showing posts 1 - 9 of 9, (reverse)
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03/24/2005 08:48:27 PM · #1
I'm still learning what all my new camera does. I just noticed a picture adjustment setting in the menu where you can set the sharpness to high instead of standard. A lot of times when I'm taking "hand-held" pictures instead of using a tripod, monopod, etc. the pictures look "soft" or slightly blurry. (hands aren't as steady as they used to be, I guess). Anyway, would it hurt anything to leave the picture setting to the high sharpness instead of leaving it at the standard setting? Do you think this would help my hand held pictures turn out better/clearer? (or would it make the ones taken with a tripod too sharp?) Maybe switch back & forth, depending on how I'm taking the pic?
03/24/2005 08:56:46 PM · #2
I have the FZ15 and I have been playing with the various settings as well (I'm a new owner too) I found that the sharp setting doesn't really help shots that are blurry from camera shake, especially at full zoom. I was taking pictures in a fierce wind the other day with no tripod and there was no way I could keep the camera steady (I could barely stand straight) as an experiment I tried the different sharpness settings and found there was no difference.

I did however notice a difference when I had the noise setting on low and then removed the noise in PS, the pictures looked better at 100% then when I used the standard or high noise setting and removed the noise using the same setting. I tried this a couple of different times with different shooting conditions because I thought the first time was fluke - same result each time. (I took the same picture, same time, with tripod) Go figure?
03/24/2005 09:02:26 PM · #3
I always used minimum sharpening with my FZ10 and used USM in Photoshop to sharpen instead, which gives much better results. What kind of shutter speeds are you using? There is image stabilising but it can't perform miracles. Also, make sure you've achieved focus lock and that the subject hasn't moved too much by the time the shutter has fired.
03/24/2005 09:14:00 PM · #4
Hmmm, I'll have to try the noise setting too then!

My shutter speeds have just been the automatic ones. I'm too much of a beginner to know what I'm doing with the different shutter speeds. Got to experiment and read more. (I also want to take some classes to get a better foundation) The image stabilizer helps but, you're right, it's not perfect, and I still get blurry pictures sometimes. But...I'm getting better! :)
03/24/2005 09:20:03 PM · #5
My FZ20 feels very lightweight in my hands and I think that makes it harder to hold it steady. Tripod is a big help.
03/24/2005 09:32:02 PM · #6
Originally posted by coolhar:

My FZ20 feels very lightweight in my hands and I think that makes it harder to hold it steady. Tripod is a big help.


I didn't think about that. It's bigger than the 35 mm camera that I was previously using. It's nice to know that I'm not the only one having problems holding it steady!
03/29/2005 05:42:36 AM · #7
To get steadier, sharper shots, I've found two things that help when I am shooting without a tripod (in addition to setting the image stabilizer to Mode 2), They are:

First, use the eye viewfinder instead of the LCD to compose your shots. This gives your camera the advantage of being held steady by your head. This really works.

Second, shoot in rapid burst mode. Press and hold the shutter button down, firing off two shots or more. Often the first shot is blurrier than the rest as pushing the shutter button initially jars the camera. Once the button is held down, no more shaking. The second shot is often much sharper.
03/29/2005 07:38:28 AM · #8
You can get better results by having a lower level of sharpening done in the camera and finishing up final sharpening in post processing where you have more precise control. That will give blurrier images when you first see them and a little more work for you, but should produce better results, especially after you have gained experience using the unsharp mask tool. Another general rule is to make your sharpening a last step after you have resized the image file depending on the intended use. The FZ20 is particularly vulnerable to oversharpenned images coming straight out of the camera because of the resolving power of it's very high quality lens system. And I believe this is accentuated by it's fairly agressive file compression. Setting in camera sharpening at it's lowest level will force you to learn how to use sharpening tools in post processing, and in the long run, let you get the most out of your camera. And use a tripod when you can. As Bobster says, Image Stabilization can't perform miracles.
03/29/2005 08:20:11 AM · #9
I find the camera works well with the following adjustments:
Contrast: Standard
Sharpness: Standard
Saturation: Standard
Noise Reduction: Standard

If you put the noise reduction to high you loose a lot of range. If you put the sharpness to high you get over-sharpening most of the time. Saturation can be put on high on hazy days and it helps. Contrast works best to me set to standard. It is easier to us PS to adjust what is needed. "IS-I" works better for me than "IS-II". And remember that if at full zoom no matter how steady the hands, you will in most cases get camera shake. I read somewhere that your Shutter Speed should be 1 above your mm as a good rule of thumb to keep from camera shake unless you have a good "IS". With that rule you should keep in mind that shooting at wide angle on the FZ20 [36mm] handheld your ss should be no longer than 1/60th sec unless you have "IS" on then 1/30th sec. maybe ok. At full zoom [432mm] handheld your ss should be no longer than 1/500th of a sec. w/o "IS" and you can go longer with the "IS" on depending on your steadiness.
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