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08/09/2002 08:48:51 AM · #1 |
Ive noticed quite a few pictures this week suffering from very bright bleached skies. This seems to be when there is a thin layer of cloud making the sky a very bright white, and causes the sky to bleed into roof and treelines.
Here is one example from a couple of weeks ago.
//www.dpchallenge.com/image.asp?IMAGE_ID=3438
What ways of dealing with this exist? Ive tried a polarising filter, but it didnt make any difference. Ive seen graduated filters mentioned, but they may cause problems for things silouetted against the sky. |
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08/09/2002 09:12:30 AM · #2 |
This is not easy. When you take a picture facing a bright lightsource then your subject will most likely be under-exposed. You can correct that problem by over-exposing the same shot. But -like the shot you mentioned- the skies are over-exposed and bleed into other objects. Polarization filters won't help much. They only filter out reflected light.
Graduated filters help better in these surcomstances, even though it makes silouettes even darker. But please note: Silouettes are already dark, so the added darkness of the filter will not show to much.
You, as the photographer, can clearly see the use of the filter, but if you didn't take the shot yourself you wouldn't notice the use of such filters.
Try a different position before taking the shot, and try to leave out as much of that light as you can.
If your shot isn't going to be posted here, you can take 2 shots, 1 under and 1 over exposed and take the best of the 2 shots to create a new picture. This will probably be a lot of work....
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08/09/2002 09:22:01 AM · #3 |
This is a problem that can be corrected, depending on the camera you are using.
This particular image that you show here is shot in an overall harsh lighting situation. I *do* believe that a polarizer would have helped this shot, but I think a graduated neutral density filter would have been appropriate as well. A lot of digital cameras don't directly support the use of filters though.
Digital cameras also generally use average weighted metering to determine the exposure. The digitals seem to have a particularly difficult time metering a shot like this one where there are extremely bright and extremely dark areas in the photo. This shot needs spot metering to find the correct exposure.
I would have used the spot meter to set my exposure on some neutrally colored area of this photo... some area where the bright and dark is more balanced... based on the shadows in this photo, the photographer was probalby shooting towards the sun. I try to avoid this when possible...
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08/09/2002 09:56:01 AM · #4 |
Another thing in addition to metering, position, polarizers and nuetral density and graduated density filters is a screen.
You can buy these or make it out of light weight pine frame and a white fabric.
Many pros use these when shooting in bright sunlight to "shade" the subject. This only works with subjects small enough to benefit like still lifes and portraits but I am making one of these myself so I can shoot more outdoors in sunlight.
These shades can also work to block sunlight that may cause flares and ghosting on your lens if you set your camera up under the shade.
* This message has been edited by the author on 8/9/2002 9:55:45 AM. |
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08/09/2002 10:05:51 AM · #5 |
//www.fredmiranda.com/article_2/index.html
gives an excellent explanation of combining the two shots (John mentions taking) in Photoshop. I realize it won't work for pieces submitted here, but it may assit in your personal photos.
* This message has been edited by the author on 8/9/2002 10:05:36 AM. |
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08/09/2002 11:06:48 AM · #6 |
I was talking to a pro that does only b&w and saw some of his photos last night. By the standards here they were all overexposed. I think we are bit fast to say overexposed.
Just and observation.
Tim |
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08/09/2002 11:52:44 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by crisa58:
//www.fredmiranda.com/article_2/index.html
gives an excellent explanation of combining the two shots (John mentions taking) in Photoshop. I realize it won't work for pieces submitted here, but it may assit in your personal photos
Yes, since my camera doesn't allow for filters, I tend to use layer masks in Photoshop to correct (but not for dpchallenges though!), as described in your link. Would like to add that layer masks are extremely useful. Rather than just playing with the opacity of the layermask, I lay in different curves on the layermask, etc, and then play with the blending modes as well.
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