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01/14/2015 09:56:44 PM · #1
As a beginner in wildlife photography what equipments I should buy for a good photo.... (Camera + Lens).. I have canon and I want to go for canon again.. Need help.
01/14/2015 10:02:25 PM · #2
Tell us a little bit about:
- What kind of wildlife photography are you most interested in doing?
- Do you currently have a DSLR body? If so, which one?

01/14/2015 11:00:06 PM · #3
and what len(s) do you currently own?
01/14/2015 11:18:26 PM · #4
The above are good questions, but assuming you have neither a body nor a lens, I'd say 70d and 100-400mm zoom for starters if you want to stick with canon.

Once you are honestly being limited by that setup, a larger more high end body and anywhere from a 500 to 800mm fast prime telephoto is in order, but that's high dollar.
01/15/2015 04:26:41 AM · #5
Originally posted by MadMan2k:

The above are good questions, but assuming you have neither a body nor a lens, I'd say 70d and 100-400mm zoom for starters if you want to stick with canon.

Once you are honestly being limited by that setup, a larger more high end body and anywhere from a 500 to 800mm fast prime telephoto is in order, but that's high dollar.


... a bit of a understatement, but I am a poor pleb. Trust me, you will gasp at the price of one of these.

Ray

Message edited by author 2015-01-15 04:28:23.
01/15/2015 05:14:24 AM · #6
I do most of my wildlife photography with an iPhone, and the rest with a very modest compact. Of course, it shows. And you've got to get very close.

But more significantly, the idea that serious wildlife photography must be of the super close-up, hyper-sharp kind is losing currency. Several of the world's premier wildlife photographers have moved toward capturing more environmental pictures of wild animals. An example from my own country is Greg du Toit, who in his excellent African Wildlife Exposed discusses and illustrates what he describes as his own evolution from 'Heroes' (close portraits of animals) to 'Moments' (animals in action) to 'Visions' (abandonment of the necessarily sharp and close, and incorporation of wild environment and context into a broader and more informed view). He clearly finds his evolution to that point satisfying, and more substantive. I think most readers of that book would agree.

Wildlife is not all about long telephotos. Taking wildlife photos that may as well have been taken in a zoo is no challenge. Taking wildlife photographs that are singular, sympathetic and illuminating is the new black. Get in early; go black now. Any camera works OK (though good quality does show through), just add lots of observation, patience and perseverance.
01/15/2015 05:46:33 AM · #7
I have Canon 600D.. with basic lens ef-s 18-55 with IS & ef 75-300 without IS.. & I am interested in Birds(mainly in flight), Tigers, Leopards this type of wild animals... I want to be a professional in this field so Ho can I will make this as my profession?
01/15/2015 07:57:52 AM · #8
One of my passions, I so love to shoot eagles.

I have rented the 800mm and still found it not long enough for what I need for the eagles.. My goal is to own a 1000mm lens.
The photographers that I meet up with down at the lock and dams all have 1000mm and they are pros. It is all they use, tripod, hood, filter, and a 1000mm.

Right now, I use a 70-300mm, I can get tree shots of them and a few flying shots only if they are in range, and it stays on all times with a hood and CPL filter and tripod.. My best friend and I go out shooting birds all the time, we will shoot pelicans during the fall and spring when they migrate and blue herons, and she owns the same camera you have, it does an amazing job with those birds. She also shoots with the 1000mm... The pros at the lock and dams also own those cameras. A few of them own Nikons.

We also carry a waterproof cover too for when it rains or snows. That is the equipment used at least.. I love it because its simple.

How to make it as a profession that is out of my league but I wish you well and I can't wait to see the work you do! Good luck!

Message edited by author 2015-01-15 08:07:48.
01/15/2015 08:13:52 AM · #9
Originally posted by jgirl57:

One of my passions, I so love to shoot eagles.


Isn't that illegal?
01/15/2015 09:04:03 AM · #10
For professional wildlife photography, as some have already posted, usually very long lenses are required, and they come with very hefty price tags, can be $10k USD and up. The other aspect to wildlife photography that is critical is the willingness and commitment to get into the field and spend potentially a *lot* of time in very uncomfortable situations pursuing your subjects.
You can certainly gain entry with less expensive equipment. Two good options in the Canon camp are the 300 f/4 IS and the 400/5.6. The 300/f/4 with a 1.4x teleconverter (don't go cheap on the teleconverter!) will give 420mm with IS, and because you are using an APS-C camera your "apparent focal length" will be about 670mm. Still not as long as you'd really like, and relatively slow at f/5.6 with the converter, but tremendously less expensive, perhaps $1100 USD for a used 300/4 IS, and about $440 more for a good 1.4x converter.

Message edited by author 2015-01-15 09:12:18.
01/15/2015 06:24:23 PM · #11
I agree with ' . substr('//www.dpchallenge.com/images/user_icon/21.gif', strrpos('//www.dpchallenge.com/images/user_icon/21.gif', '/') + 1) . ' kirbic up to a point. A 300mm f.4 is a good investment, as it a teleconverter. I have the Nikon equivalent of what he's discussing (ie cropped-frame camera, 300mm f.4 and 1.4 teleconverter).

However, you should know that though a 1.4 teleconverter will give you more distance, you WILL lose depth of field. So if you don't mind getting only your subject's eyes in true sharp focus, that setup may work for you...you will have 420mm to mess with...and it will also mean that your 300 f.4 will now be a f5.6.

Just so you know!

Oh and in case you want some idea as to what a 500mm f.4 entails...well, the damn thing weighs 8.5 pounds all on its own, never mind the weight of the camera body. Unless you are phenonemally strong and thus able to hold and shoot a lens that is almost 3ft long with the lens hood up, you will need a tripod that is rated to hold that kind of weight...and oh yeah they cost around $10k...I know this cause my ex-bf had one, and with his 5D MarkIII, they whole kit and caboodle weighed 11 lbs. And he bought a $1500 tripod. And a super-strong gimbal head to hold it all steady.

Message edited by author 2015-01-15 18:31:12.
01/15/2015 07:01:50 PM · #12
Fixed length lenses can really limit you as the wildlife doesn't stay in the one place which you need them to be. All of the sudden they're right in front of you catching the huge fish and you can't get them in the lens.

The tamron 150-600 is a sweet lens.
01/15/2015 08:05:53 PM · #13
Originally posted by LN13:

Originally posted by jgirl57:

One of my passions, I so love to shoot eagles.


Isn't that illegal?


Yes, it is....but it's something that "WE" can get away with and not get arrested for!!!
01/15/2015 09:17:27 PM · #14
LOLOL!

Kinda like how I love photopgrahy, its a great stress reliever... I get to chop off heads and not get thrown in jail too hahhah
01/15/2015 11:09:23 PM · #15
It also helps to work on learning how to be a good hunter, and to know the habits of the subjects, so you can get close to the subjects without them running or flying off.
This photo was done with my point n' shoot Canon this morning, and it's not cropped. A tent/ blind is also a good investment for the cost.
' . substr('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_portfolio/65000-69999/69008/120/Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_1139678.jpg', strrpos('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_portfolio/65000-69999/69008/120/Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_1139678.jpg', '/') + 1) . '
01/16/2015 01:57:50 AM · #16
Any professional wildlife photographer will have the following:
- one go-anywhere stay-anywhere vehicle, or budget to rent these expensive vehicles
- a family that travel with him, or else see him every three months for a long weekend [to take those wonderful storytelling images after spending 3 weeks 12 hours a day tracking the cockroach]
- laid-back view on the 'nicer things in life', as you'll have to rough it.
- sturdy and reliable photographic equipment [read expensive] or a continuous stream of replaced cheap equipment, because nature is harsh.
- not the latest, but the trusted and loved [read knows it like the back of his hand] equipment.
- vast knowledge of his prey's environment and habits or have a hired professional tracker with him
- backup systems as there is no shop around the corner

Often you will not be able to get close to your subject. One takes the money-shot only at dusk and dawn when the light is wonderful but weak. Wildlife mostly moves around as well. This will test any system of camera and lens to it's utmost. Action happens so fast, one needs to take a quick sequence of images and then hope one captured the perfect moment. There is no second chance. No please walk down the steps again. No coming back next weekend.
You also mention that you are interested in Birds in flight. Those are the most taxing of nature images.

All of the above means that your equipment need to have/be:
- high frames per second
- reasonable low-light ability
- good sized buffer
- lens for the occasion, meaning must have macro, wide and telephoto covered. So not only one lens.
- environmentally sealed
- sturdy, it's not going to rest on a tripod in a studio.
- travel cases and cleaning equipment of high quality.

So if you have inherited gazillions, do not need to ever work again, and want to become a wildlife photographer then you just buy the best that you will be able to carry around, go to wonderful places and make us jealous.

If you work in a shop and will start to build up your wildlife portfolio over weekends, get the following:

- Canon 7 D I or II.
- Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II [the cheapie] go better as your budget allows. for those low-low light conditions
- Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS II OR Tamron SP 150-600mm F/5-6.3 VC USD but know that your tripod/beanbag will be needed.
- Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro if you have the money, else Kenko extension tubes, they work really well.
- Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS as your stock lens. Replace with the new video-focus types if you are going to take video's
- tripod that can manage all, at least something like Vanguard Alta Pro 263AB 100

Spend the rest of the money getting to the right place for as long as possible.

Just my 10000 cents...
01/16/2015 12:51:03 PM · #17
As I am a student, I can't effort these type of highly expensive stuffs... I will be glad if you will advice me some budget stuffs which are easily effort able by students.
01/16/2015 01:02:05 PM · #18
Originally posted by Nilanjan:

As I am a student, I can't effort these type of highly expensive stuffs... I will be glad if you will advice me some budget stuffs which are easily effort able by students.


Ok, here's about the best you'll find then, Panasonic FZ70
01/16/2015 04:25:02 PM · #19
Tamron 150-600 is a good lens for wildlife and less than $1000. Not bad for a long lens.
01/16/2015 07:05:32 PM · #20
Originally posted by Cory:

Originally posted by Nilanjan:

As I am a student, I can't effort these type of highly expensive stuffs... I will be glad if you will advice me some budget stuffs which are easily effort able by students.


Ok, here's about the best you'll find then, Panasonic FZ70

I have an older version of the Canon Equivalent. With a long zoom fixed-lens and a small sensor you basically trade exceptional versatility (and hundreds in savings) for image quality (particularly noise low-light situations).

Originally posted by vawendy:

... the wildlife doesn't stay in the one place which you need them to be. All of the sudden they're right in front of you catching ...

... you. :-(
01/17/2015 11:39:51 AM · #21
The 75-300mm (or 70-300mm) canon was a nice entry lens. Some good photos from it.

The problem is, if you want to make a living as a wildlife photographer, you need equipment that will give you superior shots. The lenses that are cheaper and thus softer around the edges, or more distorted, or worse at certain focal lengths will show when you blow up the photos.

oops, notice that you have that lens. But still same point -- if you want to make a living, a lot of times you really need to quality.

Message edited by author 2015-01-17 11:40:53.
01/18/2015 11:36:43 AM · #22
If you want to be a professional wildlife photographer, you'll be competing with professional wildlife photographers, who I guarantee, have all kinds of expensive gear. A lot of wildlife photography happens quickly, in conditions that are less than optimal, and to do this professionally, you'll need a camera and lens combo that can shoot in early or late day light, in the rain, and get bandged around a bit without breaking. You'll need to figure out how to get the gear you need, because you're choosing a field that doesn't really work on a student budget.

01/18/2015 11:42:17 AM · #23
Originally posted by Ann:

... a field that doesn't really work on a student budget.

Unless you stick to the "wildlife" in the frat houses ... :-)
01/18/2015 12:34:27 PM · #24
I think this all depends on how soon you want to "go pro". Do you have any experience in this field? Have you been published or sold any images? Or is this something you think you want to do and want to try it out first?

If you're already ok with the mosquitoes and mud and the possibility of coming home empty-handed, and your current equipment is no longer cutting it, you're going to need to invest. If you're just figuring things out, your current setup appears to be adequate.

But to become a pro, one of the first things you'll need is a killer portfolio.
01/19/2015 05:42:44 AM · #25
I am very new in this field.... & I don\'t know how to publish or, sell images... :( But among all sections of photography I love Wildlife the most... I have few shots on birds and other animals...

Right now I am looking for how to sell images.. Any tips regarding this issue??
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