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DPChallenge Forums >> Individual Photograph Discussion >> I need to stop sightseeing at midday...
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10/31/2014 08:15:58 PM · #1
Hi all,
Went sightseeing near Las Vegas on a ridiculously clear day at the worst possible hour. *sigh* I don't usually go too crazy editing point'n shoot clicks but this one keeps pulling me back.

Steps: Other than crop and some basics I used Topaz Lens Effects - UV Haze, and Topaz Adjust to darken features a bit. I'd appreciate thoughts from the experts so I can learn (and stop playing with it!). :)

Many thanks in advance for any and all (positive and constructive) feedback.



Sincerely,
Cia
10/31/2014 08:48:12 PM · #2
Well, I kinda turned it into an old-school postcard for you :-) It's really hard to work with...

10/31/2014 08:54:53 PM · #3
It would be easier to copy the image to play with if it was in the Workshop folder.
10/31/2014 09:14:28 PM · #4
I don't think it's that bad, light-wise. It accurately shows a clear desert scene during the day.
10/31/2014 09:32:06 PM · #5
Originally posted by MadMan2k:

I don't think it's that bad, light-wise. It accurately shows a clear desert scene during the day.


+1

I too think it is a pretty accurate photo of a desert scene. Not all scenery is vibrant colors. When I looked at your image, I could almost feel the desert warmth and dryness.
10/31/2014 11:28:49 PM · #6
Or maybe something like this using Topaz Restyle - it was really easy to copy your nice big file.

11/01/2014 12:21:49 AM · #7
I would never be happy with an image that I doctored to that extent.
11/01/2014 12:29:36 PM · #8
Originally posted by ShutterPug:

Originally posted by MadMan2k:

I don't think it's that bad, light-wise. It accurately shows a clear desert scene during the day.


+1

I too think it is a pretty accurate photo of a desert scene. Not all scenery is vibrant colors. When I looked at your image, I could almost feel the desert warmth and dryness.


Good points. Accuracy is definitely a desirable feature. I do like the colorized versions as well for something fun to look at. I'll have to try that out.

(Also moved photo to workshop.)
11/01/2014 12:31:04 PM · #9
Originally posted by bvy:

I would never be happy with an image that I doctored to that extent.


I tend to agree. I like realism in landscapes which is why I struggle to edit them as I tend to go a little too far. Learning to watch my colors so that I don't correct too blue or introduce incorrect tones. Thanks!
11/01/2014 12:45:41 PM · #10
A little shadow/highlight, brightness/contrast in Nik Viveza and a vignette from Nik Color Efex:

11/01/2014 01:30:52 PM · #11
I guess I'm kind of lazy and old-fashioned, so I pretty much stick to using Curves and the UnSharp Mask filter for most of my editing. I agree the original didn't need much.

The first version just uses a basic Curve on the RGB composite channel, the second uses separate Curves to the foreground, moutains, and sky through masks (see screen-shot). The masks were simple to make: used the Magic Wand on the Blue channel to select the sky (pretty uniform and separate from the ground), saved the inverted selection for the FG mask, then erased part of it over the mountains and combined selections to create the center mask.

Both then had "high-radius" UnSharp Mask applied: Amt 12%, radius 48px, threshold = 0, which helps accentuate the contrast.

1. 2. Screenshot:
11/01/2014 06:32:46 PM · #12


Here is a version for those who are less firmly attached to landscape as always needing to involve realistic documentation. It was interesting to approximate an oil painting effect with Topaz Impression. I haven't had this plug in very long, so much learning remains while having fun. Of course, this is off limits in DPC challenges such filters are too much "effect" to pass muster. Too far from "photography" for most of us. This could get old after a few images, but I may continue to play with it for a while.
11/01/2014 07:08:42 PM · #13
the original is what it is. you make and take what you want from it.

but personally - not a bad shot at all.

i imagine it's pretty close to what you saw at the time it was taken...

11/02/2014 12:14:44 PM · #14
Originally posted by GeneralE:

I guess I'm kind of lazy and old-fashioned, so I pretty much stick to using Curves and the UnSharp Mask filter for most of my editing. I agree the original didn't need much.


Thank you! I really like #1. Trying a couple of tips as I edit my annual photo slideshow for my parents. Clearly I need to reread the tutorials on USM and practice some more. :+)

Message edited by author 2014-11-02 12:15:33.
11/02/2014 12:19:59 PM · #15
Originally posted by bob350:



Here is a version for those who are less firmly attached to landscape as always needing to involve realistic documentation. It was interesting to approximate an oil painting effect with Topaz Impression. I haven't had this plug in very long, so much learning remains while having fun. Of course, this is off limits in DPC challenges such filters are too much "effect" to pass muster. Too far from "photography" for most of us. This could get old after a few images, but I may continue to play with it for a while.


I like the effect on the plants but not as much on the mountains and sky. Artistic filters are definitely fun. Every so often I run a pic through to see what happens. I think a canvas print that looks like it was painted would be cool. :)
11/02/2014 12:59:23 PM · #16
Originally posted by ciaeagle:

Originally posted by GeneralE:

I guess I'm kind of lazy and old-fashioned, so I pretty much stick to using Curves and the UnSharp Mask filter for most of my editing. I agree the original didn't need much.


Thank you! I really like #1. Trying a couple of tips as I edit my annual photo slideshow for my parents. Clearly I need to reread the tutorials on USM and practice some more. :+)

Well, this involves the simplest adjustments of all: an "S"-shaped Curve to improve contrast (and thereby mid-tone detail) and the high-radius USM technique, which acts like a "clarify" filter to also help apparent contrast/detail. Be careful with it as it can blow highlights or block shadows if you have a lot of (important) detail at the ends of the tone range.

A worthwhile experiment might be to take this image and create a selection for half of it, and then apply these adjustments to just one part so you can see the differences side-by-side.

11/02/2014 01:39:23 PM · #17
Some options using Topaz and SEP2

- Sepia
- BW1
- BW2
- Dark

Message edited by author 2014-11-03 19:54:34.
11/03/2014 07:40:30 PM · #18
Hey Marcia ... if you're interested in any of those edits last posted please go ahead and grab 'em. If not, that's fine too ... I'm easy.

I'm out of portfolio space here and need to move those out. :-)
11/03/2014 07:47:43 PM · #19
Originally posted by glad2badad:

Hey Marcia ... if you're interested in any of those edits last posted please go ahead and grab 'em. If not, that's fine too ... I'm easy.

I'm out of portfolio space here and need to move those out. :-)


Got em! Thanks :) I like the idea behind the sepia one ... something else to play with.
11/03/2014 07:53:48 PM · #20
Originally posted by GeneralE:

Well, this involves the simplest adjustments of all: an "S"-shaped Curve to improve contrast (and thereby mid-tone detail) and the high-radius USM technique, which acts like a "clarify" filter to also help apparent contrast/detail. Be careful with it as it can blow highlights or block shadows if you have a lot of (important) detail at the ends of the tone range.

A worthwhile experiment might be to take this image and create a selection for half of it, and then apply these adjustments to just one part so you can see the differences side-by-side.


Added to my list of photo editing homework assignments. :) Thanks again!!!
11/05/2014 06:26:58 PM · #21


Here is my version. Made it warmer and used the burn tool on the shadows and highlights.
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