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12/26/2013 06:46:01 PM · #26 |
Here's my 2 minute attempt. I'm at work so I don't have access to any "real" tools, so I did this on my iPad using snapseed. Ignore the banding in the sky, I'm working with an 8 bit image on an iPad, and I pushed it too far. Steps:
Started with Bear's reprocessing. It helps *a lot* if color, contrast, and white balance are good before converting.
Adjusted white balance. I was going by the snow on the top of the mountain, which was still a bit blue. This made the yellows really pop.
Black and white conversion. There aren't a lot of controls in snapseed, but I used a green filter. Green gave me the best mix of greys on the mountains.
The yellow rocks were too bright, so I did a selective adjustment and darkened them a bit, and darkened the sky a *lot*. Once I had some headroom (I was about to blow out the yellow rocks), I bumped the local contrast up to 11, and adjusted the overall brightness and contrast to taste.
It was the local contrast step that caused all the banding in the sky.
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12/26/2013 06:48:25 PM · #27 |
I agree the image is far from optimal. taken at 2:00PM, back to the sun, even with the circular polarizer you can only do so much.
Now I'm going to screw with it using Robert's advice and see what I can do with it.
Thank you all!! |
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12/26/2013 06:49:18 PM · #28 |
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12/26/2013 07:49:57 PM · #29 |
After working with the advice given, this is what I came up with. Tomorrow I will retake focus stacking at F11 just before sunset.
Again I wish to thank you all!! |
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12/26/2013 08:15:29 PM · #30 |
here are my two quick attempts. The first is the isolated Green channel copied to a Grayscale file then adjusted with Curves. The secon uses the Channel Mixer in monochrome mode, with adjustments to all three channels, and the resultand gray image adjusted with Curves.
In each case, I made a crude mask with the Magic Wand tool for the dark shadowed area in front of the small scarp in the lower-left and applied separate Curves to that area and to the rest of the image to try and retain a hint of detail. Green Channel > Grayscale  Channel Mixer in Monochrome mode
    
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12/26/2013 09:17:56 PM · #31 |
 This is done with SEP2. I have to agree with the others, black and white photography is all about contrasts between light and shadows. The original shot is almost as important as the conversion is.
Matt |
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12/26/2013 11:04:56 PM · #32 |
| Regardless of how you get there, don't forget the dodge tool. It can really help you pop areas that you feel are "drab". |
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12/26/2013 11:11:24 PM · #33 |
Several things to work on, between what was posted here, and several things I have read, I have my plan for a re shoot tomorrow. Besides it's a nice little walk with the wife.
Thanks everyone I'm getting closer to what I'm hoping to accomplish..
And Paul, your ideas using layers will be used on the re shoot editing.
Message edited by author 2013-12-26 23:18:59. |
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12/27/2013 09:11:04 AM · #34 |
Thanks for all of the information in this thread. I am going to see what I can learn. One question - does anyone here ever set your camera to B&W to capture the image directly or do you always do it in post processing?
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12/27/2013 09:22:15 AM · #35 |
Originally posted by Enlightened:
Thanks for all of the information in this thread. I am going to see what I can learn. One question - does anyone here ever set your camera to B&W to capture the image directly or do you always do it in post processing? |
I always capture in RAW because all the data is there. It helps to be able to attain a little more dynamic range, for example. To set the camera to B&W implies a JPG capture and an in-camera processing, which I have done for minimal editing ruleset here. |
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12/27/2013 09:29:47 AM · #36 |
Originally posted by hahn23:
Originally posted by Enlightened:
Thanks for all of the information in this thread. I am going to see what I can learn. One question - does anyone here ever set your camera to B&W to capture the image directly or do you always do it in post processing? |
I always capture in RAW because all the data is there. It helps to be able to attain a little more dynamic range, for example. To set the camera to B&W implies a JPG capture and an in-camera processing, which I have done for minimal editing ruleset here. |
Thanks that makes more sense. I didn't think about losing the RAW when shooting in b&w. |
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12/27/2013 10:24:03 AM · #37 |
Originally posted by Enlightened:
Thanks for all of the information in this thread. I am going to see what I can learn. One question - does anyone here ever set your camera to B&W to capture the image directly or do you always do it in post processing? |
I actually do that a lot with my RX 100, because then it sets the display to b&w. I shoot in RAW + JPEG, though, so I have the data to edit with. |
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