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09/29/2012 01:33:42 AM · #1
I don't know how many times I have seen a comment in the forums saying that they prefer basic editing or minimal editing challenges because they don't know how to use photoshop or similar editing programs. Some of you know how to use editing programs, but chose not to because because you like a more minimal approach (this thread is not for you, so go ahead and just push the ignore button) But some of you just don't want to take the time to learn or just don't feel like learning how to edit your photos is that important. I am a firm believer that learning how to use photo editing software is just as important as learning how to use your camera. Here is a list of the top 10 things I use in photoshop, if you don't know how to use one or more of these tools do whatever you can to learn how (youtube, dpc tutorials, or just ask someone here, I for one would be glad to explain how to use them)

Here is my top 10 (in order of use):

1. RAW conversion software, if you don't know how to convert your photos learn how, I use the white balance adjustment the most, and rarely anything else but the recovery slider comes in handy quite a bit
2. Layers if you don't know how to use layers you are severely handicapping yourself. You should know how to create a new layer and know how to mask and or erase over part of a layer to let the underneath layer show through. I use this on every single image I edit.
3. Using paint brush on an adjustment layer to mask, I mentioned this before in using layers. But masking or at least learning how to erase over parts of your image is so important to know
4. Levels or Curves adjustment. I use levels because elements doesn't have a good curves adjustment. But both are very powerful tools. I also use this on almost every photo I edit.
5. Dodge and Burn, learn how to use the dodge and burn tools, try using them on different opacity settings and on highlight, midtones and shadows. You will be amazed at what you can do with these tools once you learn to use them correctly. I also use these on almost every photo I edit.
6. Clone tool, for portraits this is especially a must. I hardly ever use mine at full opacity. fixing flaws evening out skin tone and harsh highlights. I use it on landscapes too but just not as much
7. Straiten tool or you can just use the rotate tool. I wish I didn't have to use this so much but my images are crooked more often than not and the straiten tool comes in handy
8. Filters, I use the high pass filter on a new layer adjusted to soft light on almost every image, other filter I use a lot are Gaussian blur, toning filters, distort, and correct camera distortion.
9. Selection tools, I don't use these a lot because I prefer to use the masking tool, but knowing how to use these really comes in handy sometimes.
10. Healing brush tool, this is a lot like the cloning tool and can be a bit quicker if you know how to use it right. I usually use a combination of both the cloning tool and this one.

I didn't mention plug-ins because they are extras and not everyone has them but the two I use the most are SEP2 ( I use this on almost every image even my color photos) and topaz adjust (not on every image but quite a bit) denoise programs can come in handy but I don't use them as much anymore since they are not allowed for stock images.

Okay guys I listed mine, now for the rest of you photoshop(or similar) masters, what are yours?
09/29/2012 03:17:10 AM · #2
Thanks for listing your top 10, Jennifer. As I´m just using and experimenting with a trial version of PS Elements 10, going through your list gives a good orientation. I wonder if Elements fits for my purpose or should I go to Photoshop CS 6 (expensive...)instead?
09/29/2012 03:32:34 AM · #3
I can say I use all the tools you have listed here - very useful for the ones who are not experts in PS.

The other tools I use quite often are:

- pen tool for complex selections. Not easy but when you have trained yourself it becomes very important.

- quick selection tool for easy selections - very fast.

- blending modes. In expert editing you always need them but even in advanced they can help giving contrast, saturation etc.

- gradient tool, especially when blending two images with different exposure - ground and sky.
09/29/2012 04:13:44 AM · #4
just 3

1. Electrical tape

2. A half empty can of Mountain Dew (or as I call it, "Nectar of the Tards")

3. An old bannana style bicycle seat
09/29/2012 07:53:55 AM · #5
The other route is to use the very powerful RAW image processing software, like Apple's Aperture or Adobe's LR. I use Aperture v3.4.

It just makes sense to conduct image adjustments with a non-destructive workflow on the files with all the image data. In conjunction with NikSoftware's plugins, the pathway to effective image results is more streamlined and much less bloated than the full blown Photoshop package.

I do use PS Elements 10 for resizing and sharpening and conversion to JPG, but that's about it.
09/29/2012 09:12:30 AM · #6
Originally posted by albrix:

Thanks for listing your top 10, Jennifer. As I´m just using and experimenting with a trial version of PS Elements 10, going through your list gives a good orientation. I wonder if Elements fits for my purpose or should I go to Photoshop CS 6 (expensive...)instead?


I think PSE 10 is going to have most of what you are looking for. It is what I use. There are a few things I miss not having like a good curves adjustment and color match. I think the selection tools are a bit more refined as well. But PSE will do the job for most.
09/29/2012 09:47:15 AM · #7
...then PSE would do for me anyway, seeing your wonderful portfolio created with PSE!
Thanks for the advice.
09/29/2012 10:44:51 AM · #8
Originally posted by sjhuls:

Originally posted by albrix:

Thanks for listing your top 10, Jennifer. As I´m just using and experimenting with a trial version of PS Elements 10, going through your list gives a good orientation. I wonder if Elements fits for my purpose or should I go to Photoshop CS 6 (expensive...)instead?


I think PSE 10 is going to have most of what you are looking for. It is what I use. There are a few things I miss not having like a good curves adjustment and color match. I think the selection tools are a bit more refined as well. But PSE will do the job for most.


PSE10 is what I have and LOVE...I keep saying that I'll buy the BIG girl tool when I have more $$...but the more that I use PSE the more skilled I'm becoming...most of what Jennifer mentioned I can do with no problems and for what I can't use/find I have good work arounds...be sure to ck out the PhotoshopElementsUser.com...it's a wonderful site and well worth the $99 for two years...tutorials are fantastic bi-monthly magazine with lots of good information!!! And for what it is worth PSE11 is arriving Sep 24th (it's here)...
09/29/2012 11:12:01 AM · #9
Originally posted by Ja-9:

Originally posted by sjhuls:

Originally posted by albrix:

Thanks for listing your top 10, Jennifer. As I´m just using and experimenting with a trial version of PS Elements 10, going through your list gives a good orientation. I wonder if Elements fits for my purpose or should I go to Photoshop CS 6 (expensive...)instead?


I think PSE 10 is going to have most of what you are looking for. It is what I use. There are a few things I miss not having like a good curves adjustment and color match. I think the selection tools are a bit more refined as well. But PSE will do the job for most.


PSE10 is what I have and LOVE...I keep saying that I'll buy the BIG girl tool when I have more $$...but the more that I use PSE the more skilled I'm becoming...most of what Jennifer mentioned I can do with no problems and for what I can't use/find I have good work arounds...be sure to ck out the PhotoshopElementsUser.com...it's a wonderful site and well worth the $99 for two years...tutorials are fantastic bi-monthly magazine with lots of good information!!! And for what it is worth PSE11 is arriving Sep 24th (it's here)...


...I will definitely have a look on the PSE-user site. Thanks! And now I think it´s time for: practice, practice, practice... I´m not really satisfied with the out-of-the-camera results of my Nikon D7000, so I have another issue there. Just bought my first DSLR two weeks ago and it´s not that easy, I have to say. Leaving to Lake Garda (Italy) tomorrow and hope to get some nice pics there.
09/29/2012 11:16:25 AM · #10
Originally posted by albrix:

Originally posted by Ja-9:

Originally posted by sjhuls:

Originally posted by albrix:

Thanks for listing your top 10, Jennifer. As I´m just using and experimenting with a trial version of PS Elements 10, going through your list gives a good orientation. I wonder if Elements fits for my purpose or should I go to Photoshop CS 6 (expensive...)instead?


I think PSE 10 is going to have most of what you are looking for. It is what I use. There are a few things I miss not having like a good curves adjustment and color match. I think the selection tools are a bit more refined as well. But PSE will do the job for most.


PSE10 is what I have and LOVE...I keep saying that I'll buy the BIG girl tool when I have more $$...but the more that I use PSE the more skilled I'm becoming...most of what Jennifer mentioned I can do with no problems and for what I can't use/find I have good work arounds...be sure to ck out the PhotoshopElementsUser.com...it's a wonderful site and well worth the $99 for two years...tutorials are fantastic bi-monthly magazine with lots of good information!!! And for what it is worth PSE11 is arriving Sep 24th (it's here)...


...I will definitely have a look on the PSE-user site. Thanks! And now I think it´s time for: practice, practice, practice... I´m not really satisfied with the out-of-the-camera results of my Nikon D7000, so I have another issue there. Just bought my first DSLR two weeks ago and it´s not that easy, I have to say. Leaving to Lake Garda (Italy) tomorrow and hope to get some nice pics there.


I've gotten to the point with my camera (D7000) after making a few adjustments on my camera...in RAW I don't have much wk to do...what I do the most is probably a LITTLE color (curves) adjustment and blacks (in LR3)...I've really gotten very satisfied with what does come out of my camera. have fun on your trip...looking forward to the pictures when you come back...
09/29/2012 11:56:43 AM · #11
Nice thread ' . substr('//www.dpchallenge.com/images/user_icon/21_F.gif', strrpos('//www.dpchallenge.com/images/user_icon/21_F.gif', '/') + 1) . ' sjhuls. I enjoyed the basic ruleset as a beginner photographer. It really helped me focus on getting good exposure in one shot. There is not a lot that can be done to the photo to enhance the shot which was good since as a beginner I hadn't learned a lot of processing skills. As an intermediate photographer, the advanced ruleset items are just basic to me now. I feel too limited in basic. I haven't tried expert yet as I am still getting advanced editing down.

1. Raw Editing: I started out using Digital Photo Pro, the software that came with my camera, for raw edits. I then purchased PSE9 which has a raw editor built in. I found that to be better quality than the DPP software so I only used DPP to view and rate my shots and to sort through collections. I just got Lightroom 4.1 this week and am loving it! It is so intuitive and makes everything easy. I also love that you can do some masking to your raw shots with the paintbrush tool and the gradient! So awesome. It has also speeded up my workflow for HDR Processing by allowing export to Photomatix Pro and reimport back into the library. I love the stacking function to group all my bracketed shots. The catalog feature is amazing! I am able to better organize my library and find and sort through pictures!

2, 3, 4, 9. Layers are a given. Adjustment Layers allow for non destructive editing of your shots. Often I am using a brightness/contrast adjustment layer with a layer mask to place some nice light on the subject to help create the focal point. I am just beginning to scratch the surface of blending modes. For vignettes, I create a blank layer using a multiply blending mode then create an inverted and feathered ellipse or rectangle selection and fill it with black color. That really darkens up the edeges nicely. I have also experimented with some texture overlays using bleding modes. PSE9 does have a curves tool. There is also a little trick you can do to get a working curves adjustment layer!! But that's a secret! ;) Finally Layer Masking - invaluable skill and use of selection tools goes right along with it.

5. Dodge and Burn, again I am only scratching the surface of it's uses.

6, 10. Cloning and healing - great for skin, getting rid of zits and stuff like that. Also good for things besides skin such as sky and wires and other non-major elements of your photo according to the DPC ruleset. (Sticks in Banana's excluded!)

7. Straightening was part of my raw workflow in PSE9 as it had a nice straighten tool. I haven't used it in LR4 yet and don't know if it's available. Cropping is something I typically save for last in my workflow, followed by any necessary vignetting.

8.Camera distortion is also a part of my raw workflow and includes simple lens correction and edge lighting. To correct keystoning for architectural shots, I have been using PSE9 and I typically do that along with cropping above. It generally has to be planned for in shooting architecture. Unless of course you have that amazing tilt shift lens! Filters are used at random times during the workflow and are image dependant. Whatever is needed. I am not well versed on High Pass and have used it for sharpnening techniques and once in a tutorial for a grunge portrait. I was doing some extra noise reduction in PSE9 prior to sharpening in my workflow and after any noise reduction performed during raw edits.

09/29/2012 02:42:27 PM · #12
90% of what i do is basic editing in lightroom, which is funny because i despise being constrained to basic editing, i like knowing that can clone or selectively blur or soften skin or add some punch to the eyes or dodge and burn and absolutely lens correction.

with LR4 i rarely go into Photoshop unless i cant perform what i want to do in LR, advanced cloning mainly, stitching a panorama or hdr.

full blown Photoshop is way beyond most peoples need, PSE and LR provides more than enough for the even the pros.

09/29/2012 07:18:48 PM · #13
Jennifer can you explain and give a couple of examples of how you do/use the B&W under/over a color photo? I've done it a couple of times but it didn't
"wow" me (not like High Pass Filter) when I tried it...I'm probably NOT doing it right or I've missed some critical step...but I'm sure you can explain it to me.

Thanks
09/29/2012 08:45:36 PM · #14
Not Jennifer, but I also like the B&W overlay to tighten soft images.

' . substr('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_challenge/1000-1999/1416/120/Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_960835.jpg', strrpos('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_challenge/1000-1999/1416/120/Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_960835.jpg', '/') + 1) . ' Original for Alice ' . substr('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_portfolio/15000-19999/16106/120/Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_1035469.jpg', strrpos('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_portfolio/15000-19999/16106/120/Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_1035469.jpg', '/') + 1) . '
On this one I brought three varients in exposure into PS from the same RAW exposure to brighten up the corners and knock back the blowouts. Once I did that I copied the file in layers the top one I took into Topaz and used spiceify as a start to get the colors up to match the fiesta wear on the right hand shelves. i used that layer at 45% opacity. Layer two was shifted to black and white and used at 17% opacity on overlay. Third layer was pretty straight. Flattened, DeNoised, USMed, and saved for web, then UMS again.

The black and white got rid of a muzzy mushy dreamy look, and tightened up the details without having to USM the whole image which would have led to a lot of noise in the open field colors.

Message edited by author 2012-09-29 21:24:07.
09/29/2012 08:58:49 PM · #15
Originally posted by BrennanOB:

Not Jennifer, but I also like the B&W overlay to tighten soft images.

' . substr('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_challenge/1000-1999/1416/120/Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_960835.jpg', strrpos('//images.dpchallenge.com/images_challenge/1000-1999/1416/120/Copyrighted_Image_Reuse_Prohibited_960835.jpg', '/') + 1) . '
On this one I brought three varients in exposure into PS from the same RAW exposure to brighten up the corners and knock back the blowouts. Once I did that I copied the file in layers the top one I took into Topaz and used spiceify as a start to get the colors up to match the fiesta wear on the right hand shelves. i used that layer at 45% opacity. Layer two was shifted to black and white and used at 17% opacity on overlay. Third layer was pretty straight. Flattened, DeNoised, USMed, and saved for web, then UMS again.

The black and white got rid of a muzzy mushy dreamy look, and tightened up the details without having to USM the whole image which would have led to a lot of noise in the open field colors.


Brennan, I have been back to this image more than once since it won, wondering how you did this. I am finally beginning to, with your explanations, understand what you did. Would you care to show the original image that eventually became this magical place?
09/29/2012 11:57:24 PM · #16
Originally posted by Ja-9:

Jennifer can you explain and give a couple of examples of how you do/use the B&W under/over a color photo? I've done it a couple of times but it didn't
"wow" me (not like High Pass Filter) when I tried it...I'm probably NOT doing it right or I've missed some critical step...but I'm sure you can explain it to me.

Thanks


Just got in from a long day, I will go through my images and find one and post it sometime tomorrow.
09/30/2012 12:26:22 AM · #17
Jennifer,
Thanks for the post all way great too get some tips from the more experienced members here ..Gord
09/30/2012 04:22:42 AM · #18
Originally posted by albrix:

Thanks for listing your top 10, Jennifer. As I´m just using and experimenting with a trial version of PS Elements 10, going through your list gives a good orientation. I wonder if Elements fits for my purpose or should I go to Photoshop CS 6 (expensive...)instead?

Another nod from me for PSE 10. Not that I'm any great shakes, but after having full CS2 for a while, I got PSE 10, andf found it was actually better, and much easier to use than CS2. Granted, it's not comparing in the same time frame, but I didn't want to spend the $600 or so I would have had to fork over to have gotten CS4 at the time.

Watch your specials, and check local stores.......it lists for $99, but I've never seen it to be more than $79.95 at places like Staples or Office Max, and around Christmas you can get it for even less. The one we put in my girlfriend's computer cost me $54.95. I've spent $155, and have PSE 10 in four computers.

One other thing which Janine touched on.....

Originally posted by Ja-9:

I've gotten to the point with my camera (D7000) after making a few adjustments on my camera...in RAW I don't have much wk to do...what I do the most is probably a LITTLE color (curves) adjustment and blacks (in LR3)...I've really gotten very satisfied with what does come out of my camera.

Yeah.......nudge, nudge, wink, wink.....

Her CAMERA has gotten better so she doesn't need to edit as much.

I have noticed the same thing with mine......as my camera gets better, I don't need to do as much work as I used to to get the desired finish edited image.

Patience, practice, and time will find you quite satisfied with Elements.
09/30/2012 10:09:24 AM · #19
Originally posted by NikonJeb:

Originally posted by albrix:

.

Watch your specials, and check local stores.......it lists for $99, but I've never seen it to be more than $79.95 at places like Staples or Office Max, and around Christmas you can get it for even less. The one we put in my girlfriend's computer cost me $54.95. I've spent $155, and have PSE 10 in four computers.

One other thing which Janine touched on.....

[quote=Ja-9]I've gotten to the point with my camera (D7000) after making a few adjustments on my camera...in RAW I don't have much wk to do...what I do the most is probably a LITTLE color (curves) adjustment and blacks (in LR3)...I've really gotten very satisfied with what does come out of my camera.

Yeah.......nudge, nudge, wink, wink.....

Her CAMERA has gotten better so she doesn't need to edit as much.

I have noticed the same thing with mine......as my camera gets better, I don't need to do as much work as I used to to get the desired finish edited image.

Patience, practice, and time will find you quite satisfied with Elements.


ya...wink, wink....

let me clarify what I mean by my "out of the camera" is better. When I had my D80 (which is now on a shelf collecting dust at the moment...it will be cuddled later on) we had a minimal editing challenge. Well I didn't know how the blue blazes I would accomplish what I normally do in my RAW conversions and some blessed person here pointed out that within the camera settings I could change my settings to improve my "out of camera" shots (that was a head slap moment). Like Sharpening, Color/Saturation/Hue...I have a tendency to have/get soft focusing issues...so I really depend on all the sharpening tools I can get my hands on. Oh, and God Bless Waddy (' . substr('//www.dpchallenge.com/images/user_icon/21.gif', strrpos('//www.dpchallenge.com/images/user_icon/21.gif', '/') + 1) . ' MelonMusketeer) for showing me the +/- button on the top of my camera...that was a "duh moment". Also when I was up in North Georgia this past month...there was a fellow photographer with a D7000 and he had his camera in "live" feed, I got brave (stop rolling your eyes) and asked him how and why...once again...I'm off to ck out my manual. I guess what my point is...pull out your camera manual as well and go over it...find 2/3 things to apply to your shooting regiment, this is how we improve our shooting...not just the software, but also in HOW we use our settings...as Jeb says it only improves your shooting. Oh, and getting the D7000 has kicked my butt into the world of improved cameras for sure!!! What an amazing camera.

For what it is worth...I paid $59 @ Costco @ Christmas time for my PSE10...I'll be keeping an eye out for the PSE11 @ the same cost...

Message edited by author 2012-09-30 11:03:24.
09/30/2012 11:00:04 AM · #20
Originally posted by Ja-9:

Originally posted by NikonJeb:

Originally posted by albrix:

.

Watch your specials, and check local stores.......it lists for $99, but I've never seen it to be more than $79.95 at places like Staples or Office Max, and around Christmas you can get it for even less. The one we put in my girlfriend's computer cost me $54.95. I've spent $155, and have PSE 10 in four computers.

One other thing which Janine touched on.....

[quote=Ja-9]I've gotten to the point with my camera (D7000) after making a few adjustments on my camera...in RAW I don't have much wk to do...what I do the most is probably a LITTLE color (curves) adjustment and blacks (in LR3)...I've really gotten very satisfied with what does come out of my camera.

Yeah.......nudge, nudge, wink, wink.....

Her CAMERA has gotten better so she doesn't need to edit as much.

I have noticed the same thing with mine......as my camera gets better, I don't need to do as much work as I used to to get the desired finish edited image.

Patience, practice, and time will find you quite satisfied with Elements.


ya...wink, wink....

let me clarify what I mean by my "out of the camera" is better. When I had my D80 (which is now on a shelf collecting dust at the moment...it will be cuddled later on) we had a minimal editing challenge. Well I didn't know how the blue blazes I would accomplish what I normally do in my RAW conversions and some blessed person here pointed out that within the camera settings I could change my settings to improve my "out of camera" shots (that was a head slap moment). Like Sharpening, Color/Saturation/Hue...I have a tendency to have/get soft focusing issues...so I really depend on all the sharpening tools I can get my hands on. Oh, and God Bless Waddy ([user]MelonMusketter[/user]) for showing me the +/- button on the top of my camera...that was a "duh moment". Also when I was up in North Georgia this past month...there was a fellow photographer with a D7000 and he had his camera in "live" feed, I got brave (stop rolling your eyes) and asked him how and why...once again...I'm off to ck out my manual. I guess what my point is...pull out your camera manual as well and go over it...find 2/3 things to apply to your shooting regiment, this is how we improve our shooting...not just the software, but also in HOW we use our settings...as Jeb says it only improves your shooting. Oh, and getting the D7000 has kicked my butt into the world of improved cameras for sure!!! What an amazing camera.

For what it is worth...I paid $59 @ Costco @ Christmas time for my PSE10...I'll be keeping an eye out for the PSE11 @ the same cost...


Studying the camera manual is always a useful thing to do. We can find a lot of stuff we don't even image our camera can have.

But not things involving saturation, sharpening or contrast if you are shooting RAW. When doing that is much better to keep camera as flat as possible IMO.
09/30/2012 11:06:25 AM · #21
Originally posted by Alexkc:

[quote=Ja-9] [quote=NikonJeb] [quote=albrix] .

But not things involving saturation, sharpening or contrast if you are shooting RAW. When doing that is much better to keep camera as flat as possible IMO.


Can you explain this a little more ' . substr('//www.dpchallenge.com/images/user_icon/21.gif', strrpos('//www.dpchallenge.com/images/user_icon/21.gif', '/') + 1) . ' Alexkc? Since I've done this (changed my settings, mind you not over the top settings) I've found that I have to do very little in my RAW conversion...(well, not near as much as without it). What is the benefit to capturing as flat as you can?
09/30/2012 11:17:43 AM · #22
Most of the stuff you change gets lost in RAW. For instance, sometimes I shoot RAW+jpeg in BW, setting a high contrast and a high level of sharpening. When you download both you can see that the RAW is color and doesn't have that amount of sharpening. Have you experienced something different? It sounds strange to me because we have the same camera :)
09/30/2012 12:04:38 PM · #23
Originally posted by Alexkc:

Most of the stuff you change gets lost in RAW. For instance, sometimes I shoot RAW+jpeg in BW, setting a high contrast and a high level of sharpening. When you download both you can see that the RAW is color and doesn't have that amount of sharpening. Have you experienced something different? It sounds strange to me because we have the same camera :)


Well, I really noticed a difference with my D80...haven't shot near as much with the D7000...I just did my settings similar to the D80 and went trotting along.

the main thing that I really notice is that straight out of the camera is really improved in BOTH cameras for sure (in RAW)...I'm just not having to do near as much...now mind you do you think "I've improved"...hmmm could be that...better focus (taking more time as I know I have a problem), faster camera...more focus points, taking more time to get the right lighting??? These are all factors
09/30/2012 12:34:09 PM · #24
These are all factors that shouldn't change shooting RAW or being even worse before editing.

IMHO focus speed shouldn't change.

Sharpness is better in a jpeg file unless you change the settings of your camera. RAW file I can say is a sort of 'naked' stuff. No software to convert it adding sharpness - this happens with jpeg files.

In continuous shooting you can take less photos (bigger file size easily fills the buffer).

RAW file is anyway much better but in different ways: chance to change white balance, a more 'flexible' file etc.
09/30/2012 10:25:55 PM · #25
I decided an entry in voting right now would be a good example of what an SEP layer can do. I will post it once voting is over tonight.
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