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DPChallenge Forums >> Tips, Tricks, and Q&A >> First big/real opportunity, advice welcome...
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 04/20/2012 02:00:46 AM · #1
All,

I have been asked to do race team photography for sponsorship purposes, and also during races at off-road racing events, and the next series of Baja races. I have shot canyon motorcycle riders many times, and shot motorcycle racing at the tracks for friends (not as a papered media person) but this time I will have media credentials and a press pass. I assume that means more access, etc. I am really looking forward to it, I am excited at the opportunity. But I do have some questions.

My kit that I bring with me most places, and will to these races now consists of:

Nikon D7000 w/Nikon Battery grip
2 X 32gb Class 10 SDHC-I memory cards
Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8 VRII
Nikon 35mm f/1.8
Nikon 20mm f/2.8 - Needs Refurb for scratches
Nikon 10.5mm f/2.8 FIsh-eye
Nikon SB600 Flash
Etc pro filters...

That is the core of the kit, I have noticed when I was at the motorcycle races I longed for more reach than the 70-200mm offers due to not having media/press access to track), I didn't want to sacrifice the amazing IQ of the images that lens produces so I cropped. Question one would be, if anyone has shot Baja races somewhat professionally (full access), or off-road racing for that matter what size lens were you using with success? Also asking for folk's opinions on the TC's. I have read reviews on the TC's from mansurvos, rockwell, etc.. Seems that even with the new TC20III It's still best for IQ to stick with the TC-17II, or the TC-14... thoughts, experiences? I love the quality of Images produced by the 70-200 f/2.8 and would be disappointed if the addition of the TC changed that, or messed with my AF abilities. I also was wondering if folks usually shoot these bright and sunny events with a polarized filter or just ND? Jpeg fine, or RAW?

I just sold my D300s, and now have the D7000 (wanted to try it out, as I will now be waiting a year or so for the D800 to come down in price) I will spend the next few months getting used to the changed shooting techniques required for best IQ with the higher MP sensor, and learning the differences in handling with the AF system. Any advice on the use of the D7000 for racing photography would also be welcome and appreciated. I have seen racing photos on flickr, and other sites from the D7000 and was very impressed. I hope to do a good job for this group, as being able to shoot professionally with a good reputation (happy customers) beyond this event would be great.

I am also thinking about how best to navigate the course, work around the full time professionals and media that will be there also shooting the events. This is something I have little experience with at this level, any advice on etiquette, and how to make the best of having full event access as a photog would be great.

Question recap:
* Off-road racing photography - NIKON lenses used, NIKON TC's used (if any) and experiences with both.
* Polarized filter or not? - I would assume sunny = polarized, elseif = ND.
* JPEG Fine - or RAW? - I am guessing JPEG Fine.
* D7000 experiences shooting off-road/general racing - advice/observations?
* First time shooting with the pros, never been in the fray with them I assume it's competitive etc, tips, etiquette advice?

I appreciate any responses,

Thanks!

-N

Message edited by author 2012-04-20 09:33:12.
 04/20/2012 02:41:48 AM · #2
My first statement will be that I haven't covered something quite like this. However, I have done shots on a dusty course with out of control subjects (DH mountain bike races).

Last time, I shot with only my 28-70. I would have liked to have had my 80-200, but I hadn't purchased it yet. Since you have the 70-200, you're set there, but I would suggest you consider picking up a fast zoom. I own the 28-70, and it is awesome. Also, your 35 will mostly work for this, but will lack the zoom, so you may have to crop or zoom with your legs, as available. The 10.5 will be entirely too close for most folks comfort, but if you feel comfortable and aren't afraid of getting hit, it might make for some awesome shots.

For TC's- I'd be wary. I know the D7000 works better for boosting ISO after the fact, but a TC is going to really limit your shutter speed, which is CRITICAL for these sort of shots. This same premise overlaps into your polarizer. Polarizer will give those desert skies a gorgeous dark blue color, but they will also eat your light, so you'll be shooting more wide open. This might be feasible, it might not. As for flashes, you'll need a LOT of power to shoot in daylight and freeze action. Your two choices are as follows:
Use hypersync and shoot at whatever shutter speed you want (you lose huge amounts of power doing this... experiment to see what I mean) or stop down your aperture/use a ND/polarizer to knock down your shutter speed so you get within 1/320 and then underexpose the scene by two stops so your flash duration stops the action. At this point, an SB600 isn't going to do much, and you will almost defintely need to add an sb800 or 900 to do much for your scene. Triggering is a separate discussion beyond that.

I ALWAYS shoot RAW for flexibility. But, if you aren't used to RAW workflow, now is not the time to try it. RAW has definite advantages, and is great, but I don't recommend jumping into it straight off. Work more gradually and it's great.

Don't worm yourself into shots ahead of other photogs, don't ruin their shots. But, if you're first on the scene, set up where you want. Be CAREFUL of vehicles! To me, the key has been don't interfere with other pros, but try to get the shot you want. If they're there, then you should shoot elsewhere.

I would recommend scouting the course before the race, in order to find jumps, corners etc that you like. Set up, get some ratios set if you're using flash, and wait.

ETA: I know you have a grip, but make sure you have an extra battery for one or the other, just in case.

Message edited by author 2012-04-20 02:42:29.
 04/20/2012 08:30:03 AM · #3
I suggest you take a look at Mark Rebilas' blog He shoots Nikon stuff and does some off road stuff.

I'll disagree with Spirit and tell you that 70-200 is not nearly long enough. I would though suggest an ultra wide for some scene shots. Scouting well ahead of time. Have a vehicle to help you move. And I'd also suggest a second body. You don't want to be changing lenses in those conditions. SS isn't as fast as people would like to think for this kind of sport. You don't want to be "freezing" everything. When shooting motorsports depending on where I am on the course I will shoot as low as 1/200 of a second and this isn't for panning.
 04/20/2012 08:52:46 AM · #4
Thank you for both of your replies, I will keep all that in mind. More responses welcomed!!!

MattO - Do you have any experience using TC's on a pro lens for a sporting event, I see you have some huge lenses so probably not. But experiences with TC use for an event such as this would be great. I see a lot of bird photographers use them, have not found so much on the pro racing side. I know when standing next to the pros at the motorcycle races in the photo-windows (holes in the fences) their lenses make my 70-200 VRII look like a cute little toy.
 04/20/2012 08:54:57 AM · #5
Accidentally double posted..

Message edited by author 2012-04-20 08:55:17.
 04/20/2012 10:41:20 PM · #6
Originally posted by ShutterRev:
Thank you for both of your replies, I will keep all that in mind. More responses welcomed!!!

MattO - Do you have any experience using TC's on a pro lens for a sporting event, I see you have some huge lenses so probably not. But experiences with TC use for an event such as this would be great. I see a lot of bird photographers use them, have not found so much on the pro racing side. I know when standing next to the pros at the motorcycle races in the photo-windows (holes in the fences) their lenses make my 70-200 VRII look like a cute little toy.
I use my 1.4X on my 400MM F2.8 a lot. I also use the 1.4 and 1.7 on my 200MM F2.0. I have used the 1.4 on my 70-200F2.8 VII but not for sporting events.
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