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07/31/2011 12:00:21 PM · #1 |
Hi All,
I am trying to use 'reversing ring' method on my Sony A390.
But when i attach lens to the camera via reversing it it says 'no lens attached, shutter locked'. I tried with different lens but its not working.
Am i missing something?
Thanks
Shalabh
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07/31/2011 12:59:21 PM · #2 |
| Reversing rings generally do not support camera electronic connections. You will have to focus manually and use the aperture ring and stop down metering. Some cameras, like Pentax, allow the user to input the lens focal length. I don't now Sony cameras, but you may have to figure out how to enable the shutter to work. Perhaps someone else can add to this. |
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07/31/2011 01:05:32 PM · #3 |
Set camera to M mode (and set shutter in-camera), set aperture as described below, and focus manually. If it's a zoom lens, you're probably better off using the zoom ring to focus, but it depends on the optics of the specific lens.
Figure out how to keep the reversed lens at the proper aperture. Your depth of field will be ridiculously small if you're focusing close, so you'll need something like f/11 or f/16 unless you have a steady hand, you have a steady subject, or you have time to fire off 20 shots trying to get one in focus. If the lens has an aperture ring, use it; otherwise, you'll have to either wedge something in the aperture lever to keep the aperture at a certain setting, or keep one finger on the aperture lever and open/close it as you shoot (a pain in the tuckus when you're guessing exposure).
Message edited by author 2011-07-31 13:21:35.
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07/31/2011 01:47:30 PM · #4 |
Thanks George and fldave,
By using M mode, i am not getting that message now.
Its working but its really difficult to focus, i tried few times but m not getting any image, its all back out.
I did't have an idea that reversing ring is that tough.
Once again thanks for the input.
-Shalabh
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07/31/2011 06:57:16 PM · #5 |
Everything depends on the optics of the specific lens. Get an old (70s or 80s) manual-focus Nikkor prime (but make sure it has the right front thread) that's listed as no scratches, no internal dust off of eBay. The 50mm has good sharpness past f/4, though it won't stop down past f/16. It might be easier to focus with a zoom* (my 50-135 is great) because you can use the zoom ring to focus (!), just make sure it's pretty new (80s preferably) or the optics won't be that great. You can try Ken Rockwell's site to find the best MF Nikkors, or go here for more straightforward, less biased reviews.
Also, this page is great for finding out the size of the front thread. You can look down the front thread column and make a list of the lenses you might like, then go to Ken Rockwell or Bjorn Rorslett's site and see what he has to say about them.
To Ken Rockwell haters: I can't just give him ONE site.
To  shalabhsharma: Ken Rockwell is biased. But the lenses he LOVES really are great. If he states vaguely that it's "good" or "great," I'd get something else. You can always cross-check with the other site, it's pretty comprehensive. Also, I'm sure there are other sites with reviews for lenses from other manufacturers, but I know these 'cause I always shoot Nikon. The above recommendations are the same with any lens manufacturer, whether it's Nikon, Canon, or whatever... so if you don't want a Nikkor lens, just ignore the sites and follow the other advice (50mm's are very sharp, use a zoom for easier focusing, etc.)
*One thing to note with Nikkor zooms: push-pulls are great if you shoot it mounted normally, but if you're focusing by zooming when reversed, they're a pain because it's hard to make small adjustments and as they age, the zoom starts to creep. So if you're getting a zoom lens, get one with two rings.
Happy shootin'!
Message edited by author 2011-07-31 19:03:39.
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09/06/2012 02:47:53 PM · #6 |
Hi,
I know this is an old post, but to try to help anyone who stumbles across it in the future, like I did.
The cheap trick for controlling the aperture is basically this...cut a hole in the protector cap (which normally fits over your lens bayonet fitting). Mine already has a little sticky up bit that fits exactly where the aperture lever is, so you can just turn it. If not, you will have to glue one on.
A picture is worth a thousand words...
There is a nice video explaining this better on YouTube ..Darn, as a noob I can't post URL's
put http in front of this
://youtu.be/j7xulQffvb0
(One must assume you can also purchase one of these built for the job). |
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