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01/17/2011 12:29:16 AM · #1 |
| I have noticed some sensor dust in my camera lately. I took a look at my sensor but I am afraid to touch it. Any ideas on how to clean it? |
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01/17/2011 12:33:36 AM · #2 |
Tons of threads here with regards to sensor cleaning. :)
Just do a little forum searching. |
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01/17/2011 12:35:05 AM · #3 |
Originally posted by bergiekat:
Tons of threads here with regards to sensor cleaning. :)
Just do a little forum searching. |
I did a search but couldn't find anything maybe I was looking under the wrong category. |
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01/17/2011 01:04:07 AM · #4 |
| I find that Sprite works well.. No need to rinse even! ;) |
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01/17/2011 01:04:43 AM · #5 |
| Seriously, go look up copper hill images, their kit is great. |
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01/17/2011 01:09:42 AM · #6 |
| Scotch tape. I stopped messing with the copperhill method years ago. |
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01/17/2011 01:32:50 AM · #7 |
| if your camera is still under warranty send it to Canon, this happen to me and they took care of it! |
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01/17/2011 07:27:23 AM · #8 |
Originally posted by DrAchoo:
Scotch tape. I stopped messing with the copperhill method years ago. |
Does this seriously work? I have a squiggly line on mine (hair?) that I can't seem to blow off. Will any brand do? If not which brand? |
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01/17/2011 07:41:03 AM · #9 |
Originally posted by Kelli:
Originally posted by DrAchoo:
Scotch tape. I stopped messing with the copperhill method years ago. |
Does this seriously work? I have a squiggly line on mine (hair?) that I can't seem to blow off. Will any brand do? If not which brand? |
I personally would not touch my sensor with scotch tape. I know some folks swear it works, and some (not all) brands are relatively residue-free, *but* there is risk, since you are pulling (lifting) on the glass surface, and could remove or damage optical coatings. Also, adhesive tape will not remove any oily contaminants such as lubricants (these wind up on the sensor with surprising regularity)
A careful wet cleaning using the copperhill method has proven to be very effective, and is relatively fast and easy.
Message edited by author 2011-01-17 07:42:32. |
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01/17/2011 08:16:15 AM · #10 |
| I use the same as many others have mentioned, the Copperhill method. Personally I bought this kit. The light up magnifier was useful for me, but you may have something similar already around your house. I found it super easy to do and had no problems learning to clean it. Service is fast and friendly. |
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01/17/2011 08:48:24 AM · #11 |
| I use the artic butterfly,by visible dust..seems to work fine! |
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01/17/2011 11:16:19 AM · #12 |
Despite Fritz' caution, I've done it at least a half dozen times on various cameras with no ill effect and good results. I have only used Scotch Magic Tape by 3M. I'm not saying copperhilll is a bad method, I've used that one many times too. But for a quick clean the tape method works very well.
It's been a while since I've cleaned my own sensor. I thought the dust free vibration thing was mainly a gimmick, but I have to say I haven't even thought about dust on the 5D2 for about a year now. |
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01/17/2011 11:20:58 AM · #13 |
| Thanks for all the suggestions. I will look into them all. |
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01/17/2011 12:11:15 PM · #14 |
Duct tape is better than scotch tape. You need something with a lot of grabbing power to get off those microscopic dust particles.
Just kidding, of course. ;)
Listen to kirbic. kirbic is good. kirbic is wise. You should never stick any kind of tape to your sensor/highpass filter. Scotch tape is for wrapping presents.
Sending the camera to Canon for cleaning isn't a good solution either. Dust is. There's a good chance that your camera will pick up more dust the very next time you change lenses. If you send it in every time it gets dusty you'll be spending a lot of time sending it in and waiting for it to come back. I've also heard several people say their cameras were returned with more dust than they had when they were sent out.
By far the most popular technique for cleaning camera sensors is the Copperhill Method (Eclipse & Pec-Pads). Just follow the directions and it's a piece of cake.
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01/17/2011 02:36:16 PM · #15 |
Originally posted by DrAchoo:
It's been a while since I've cleaned my own sensor. I thought the dust free vibration thing was mainly a gimmick, but I have to say I haven't even thought about dust on the 5D2 for about a year now. |
I definitely agree with this. Granted, I have never owned a DSLR without it, but living in a dry climate myself, I didn't feel the need to start cleaning it for at least 1.5 years, and I was frequently changing my lenses in the middle of the wilderness (contrast this with people who I saw were always complaining of dust issues).
My biggest thing is that even the first time I cleaned using the copperhill approach, it was super fast, so I don't see any reason not to. And, realistically, anything that's really survived the pervasive hypersonic vibrations isn't as likely to come off so easily and may require a wet clean to begin with. Follow the directions, don't be too tentative, and it's amazingly easy/fast. |
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01/17/2011 02:55:32 PM · #16 |
Originally posted by Mick:
You should never stick any kind of tape to your sensor/highpass filter. |
Mick, I know you mean well, but you generally just scare people with comments like this which are based on nothing. It would also seem to make common sense to say "You should never wipe a chemical solvent of any kind on your sensor/highpass filter" but we know this is not true from experience.
If you have some sort of reference or evidence to say this is a bad thing, I'd love to see it so I can stop doing it to my own sensor, but in my N of 1 I have suffered no adverse effects from using Scotch Tape on my sensor and there are many similar experiences posted on the internet. |
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01/17/2011 03:40:08 PM · #17 |
why stuff about doing it yourself when a proffessional clean is quick and reasonably priced. Any camera repair shop will do it clean not only the sensoe but also the surrounding area. Phototronic services did my last clean for about $nz60.00,
I have also used the local camera shop who also do a great job drop it in, go shoping and pick it up about an hour later also very proffessional service
I havent got the steadiest of hands anyhow so it suits me
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01/17/2011 04:05:09 PM · #18 |
Because the cost for your cleaning is the same as dozens and dozens of my own?
Honestly though, if you don't feel comfortable, don't do it.
Ultimately, it's a personal call, and if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself, you don't and you shoud look elsewhere. Nothing wrong with that. Just like cars, there is a certain risk with doing your own repairs/maintenance. |
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01/17/2011 04:20:56 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by kiwinick:
why stuff about doing it yourself when a proffessional clean is quick and reasonably priced. |
I have heard a few horror stories form having the local "pro" handle a simple cleaning.
If you get a seasoned veteran who has done the cleaning on your model camera hundreds if not thousands of times, it might well be worth the cost. If on the other hand once your camera goes behind the curtain, it may be in the hands of the kid who is working at close to minimum wage who usually does the stocking and runs the developing machine, who has little training and has never cleaned your camera body before, but heck, he has to learn sometime!
Since the copperhill method takes about fifteen minuets and having the pro do it takes my camera out of my hands for a day or so, and costs me the price of a portion of my next lens or gadget, why would you not just learn to do it yourself? If your hands are shaky, sure, have someone else deal with it, but if you can do it, you should. The risks of damage are not really much greater than if you send it off to have strangers do it. |
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01/17/2011 04:47:34 PM · #20 |
Originally posted by BrennanOB:
Since the copperhill method takes about fifteen minuets... |
Yes, and I do admit, I get really tired after that much dancing ;-)
Seriously, I do agree that there is significant risk that a camera shop may take less care than you would. FWIW, the 15-minute estimate is pretty accurate, and includes pre-testing the sensor condition, setting up, doing the cleaning, and verifying the cleaned state. I typically find it takes me two to three passes to get to a point I deem acceptable, and I can still do it within a 15-min timeframe. |
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01/17/2011 04:53:34 PM · #21 |
Originally posted by DrAchoo:
Despite Fritz' caution, I've done it at least a half dozen times on various cameras with no ill effect and good results. I have only used Scotch Magic Tape by 3M. I'm not saying copperhilll is a bad method, I've used that one many times too. But for a quick clean the tape method works very well.
It's been a while since I've cleaned my own sensor. I thought the dust free vibration thing was mainly a gimmick, but I have to say I haven't even thought about dust on the 5D2 for about a year now. |
I'm thinking I might start doing this to clean that black matte stuff that lines the box, as even blasts of air can't get all the crap out.. Has anyone ever tried it on the matte material?
ETA: Yes, that dust shaker works great doesn't it? I hate my 20D for that reason.... (it's the ONLY problem with the thing, other than that horrible LCD on the back)
Message edited by author 2011-01-17 16:54:36. |
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01/17/2011 04:58:59 PM · #22 |
Originally posted by BrennanOB:
Since the copperhill method takes about fifteen minuets and having the pro do it takes my camera out of my hands for a day or so, and costs me the price of a portion of my next lens or gadget, why would you not just learn to do it yourself? If your hands are shaky, sure, have someone else deal with it, but if you can do it, you should. The risks of damage are not really much greater than if you send it off to have strangers do it. |
Soo true, well, except the part about 15 minutes.... I can do a wet cleaning on my sensor in five or less, without any hurry.. If I was to really hurry, I bet I could wet clean a sensor in just over a minute and a half... Then again, I do it at least a few times a month.
ETA: If I'm going to bother with pre-checking and count the time it takes to get everything out and put away, 10 minutes might be a bit more fair...
Message edited by author 2011-01-17 17:02:49. |
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01/17/2011 05:06:43 PM · #23 |
Originally posted by coryboehne:
I'm thinking I might start doing this to clean that black matte stuff that lines the box, as even blasts of air can't get all the crap out.. Has anyone ever tried it on the matte material? |
I'd be even less inclined to try it there. This is a paint, and in theory it should hold up to application and removal of Scotch tape, but it also might well flake off and then you have a real problem.
As an aside, it's common in the electronics industry to use a Scotch tape test to test adhesion of paints, polymer films, metal plating, and other coatings. It's not unusual for these coatings to fail the test, even if they look visually good.
This is the prime reason that I would never use Scotch or any other tape. The secondary reason is that it just will not remove anything that is not particulate in nature, e.g. lubricants or other non-particulate contaminants. A third, though minor reason is that it may leave residues (even invisible ones) that may actually attract particulates. These residues can trap particulates, and are difficult to remove, resulting in a higher risk of scratching the surface during the required aggressive removal process.
IMO, my rationale is based on sound engineering judgment; the proposed physical damage mechanisms that I identify are in fact reasonable, not some pie-in-the-sky hypotheses. While I do agree with Jason that there are plenty of folks reporting positive results with the tape method, my own risk assessment tells me not to use it. And I do have 25 years experience as an engineer in the electronics industry, doing exactly these kinds of tests and risk assessments. |
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01/17/2011 05:10:37 PM · #24 |
Originally posted by kirbic:
Originally posted by coryboehne:
I'm thinking I might start doing this to clean that black matte stuff that lines the box, as even blasts of air can't get all the crap out.. Has anyone ever tried it on the matte material? |
I'd be even less inclined to try it there. This is a paint, and in theory it should hold up to application and removal of Scotch tape, but it also might well flake off and then you have a real problem.
As an aside, it's common in the electronics industry to use a Scotch tape test to test adhesion of paints, polymer films, metal plating, and other coatings. It's not unusual for these coatings to fail the test, even if they look visually good.
This is the prime reason that I would never use Scotch or any other tape. The secondary reason is that it just will not remove anything that is not particulate in nature, e.g. lubricants or other non-particulate contaminants. A third, though minor reason is that it may leave residues (even invisible ones) that may actually attract particulates. These residues can trap particulates, and are difficult to remove, resulting in a higher risk of scratching the surface during the required aggressive removal process.
IMO, my rationale is based on sound engineering judgment; the proposed physical damage mechanisms that I identify are in fact reasonable, not some pie-in-the-sky hypotheses. While I do agree with Jason that there are plenty of folks reporting positive results with the tape method, my own risk assessment tells me not to use it. And I do have 25 years experience as an engineer in the electronics industry, doing exactly these kinds of tests and risk assessments. |
Sounds good to me... I'll just keep blasting the snot out of it with HPA and doing my wet cleaning. :) |
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01/17/2011 05:26:13 PM · #25 |
My camera, the Canon 5D, is notorious for sensor dust. Because of the imperative need to clean the sensor often, I have developed an efficient workflow. I make sure the camera batteries have a full charge. I pour a glass of Dewar's Scotch and take one sip. I play Beethoven's "Moonlight Sonata" on my stereo. (highly recommended) I lay out the Pec Pads and Eclipse fluid in front of me, along with the battery powered blower, the electrostatic soft brush and wet-swab swipe with fresh (pristine) pec pad properly attached. No compressed air for me...I've heard too many horror stories about compressed air blowers... both due to oil residue in that system and forcing particles deeper into the sensor box.
So, in a nutshell. I use the battery powered blower to "gently" blow out the big particles from the sensor "box". Then, I use the electrically charged soft brush to gently lift particles off the glass above the sensor. Final step is to use the wet swab to "mop" up the non-particulates and particulates that resist the previous blowing & sweeps. I think the secret to the wet swab is to use a correctly moistened swab. My rule is four drops, wait five seconds and only sweep the sensor in one direction, one time... quick evaporation, no residue.
During the warm, dry season, I'll clean my sensor once per week. During the cold, wet season, about once a month works great. I've never paid ANYONE to do this cleaning task for me. I only trust "me". |
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