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07/06/2010 09:24:50 PM · #1 |
Originally posted by Prash:
In doing research for a home studio lighting setup on DPC and online, I came across this nice article talking about why a short pulse high Watt-Sec rated strobe is better than a very high Watt-rated continuous light.
P.S. Please ignore if discussed already. |
I had not ever really thought about it, but the fact that continuous lighting requires no sync is an important concept that article schmoozes over. Boundless sync isn't something to just throw in as a minor caveat- it frees you IMMENSELY (that's the whole thing we were discussing above a bit). I'm not saying that means continuous is some holy grail, because it DEFINITELY has its drawbacks. (ETA- I didn't realize it probably because I never really put a lot of weight into continuous lighting, myself)
FWIW, the more photography stuff I've accumulated, the more I've understood and supported the maxim of buying what you think you will EVER need, not what will do for the time being. Of course, this approach isn't easy on the checkbook, and it's difficult to determine what exactly you'll need without going overboard, but in the long run it's way easier on the checkbook and you won't be so pissed at yourself.
Message edited by author 2010-07-06 21:27:14. |
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07/06/2010 05:22:59 PM · #2 |
In doing research for a home studio lighting setup on DPC and online, I came across this nice article talking about why a short pulse high Watt-Sec rated strobe is better than a very high Watt-rated continuous light.
P.S. Please ignore if discussed already. |
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07/06/2010 12:53:28 AM · #3 |
Pocket wizard tt1 & tt5 with 430exii. I had some issues with the 430ex but none as yet with the 430exii. Only issue in this photo is the softness from the canon50mm 1.4, I was testing at 1.4. |
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07/05/2010 11:48:34 PM · #4 |
saw the link to this on the Strobist blog. Simply put. Its the lighting stupid! =)
//fstoppers.com/iphone/
They did a shoot using a iPhone. And of course they couldn't use strobes so they used the modeling lights on their light gear and supplemented that with good old work lights from Lowe's.
I have to say that I was pretty darn impressed with the results. |
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07/04/2010 08:48:35 PM · #5 |
Originally posted by atupdate:
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excellent |
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07/04/2010 12:18:50 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by atupdate:
Then you mount the bracket to your light stand (I needed to add a 1/4" nut as a spacer due to the knob on the light stand) and then I used a couple of DIY Bongo Ties to mount my flash to the bracket.
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Nicely done, Tim! To paraphrase Plato, "Necessity is the Mother of Invention". :-P
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07/04/2010 10:37:28 AM · #7 |
I just started reading this thread, as I'm starting to get into shooting with off camera flash. I ended up ordering a couple of e-bay 40" Reflective Umbrella Softboxes.
As you can see from the light source in the image, they weren't specifically designed for a flash unit. Although they do fit, I didn't like the way it put stress on the camera-to-radio trigger hot shoe or the radio trigger-to-light stand hot shoe.
Earlier in this thread (Page 2 I think),  hoppershowed a couple of solutions he came up with. Here is my DIY bracket for a horizontally mounted flash unit.
First you start with a 5"x5" zinc plated T-bracket. The holes are the perfect size for a 1/4"-20 threaded bolt.
After grinding the corners round (Optional), I bent the sides up to cradle the flash and painted it flat black. I used a hammer and a brick to bend mine but a vise would be much easier.
I then glued padding on the sides of the cradle portion and over the end of the flat section (I used Fun Foam Sheets from a craft store) and then some self adhesive rubber bumpers, high enough to support the flash over the 1/4"-20 hex head mounting bolt. There are several sizes and styles of self adhesive bumpers and felt pads that you should be able to find the combination of sizes that will support your flash.
Then you mount the bracket to your light stand (I needed to add a 1/4" nut as a spacer due to the knob on the light stand) and then I used a couple of DIY Bongo Ties to mount my flash to the bracket.
The total cost of the bracket is about $5 -$6 and as you can see, it lines up rather nicely with the softbox umbrella.
These would also work for regular reflective and shoot through umbrellas.
Tim
Message edited by author 2010-07-04 10:43:31. |
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07/02/2010 11:28:12 AM · #8 |
Got my radiopoppers and my apollo 28" Softbox in and am very happy. Here is a test shot I did last night. The Softbox was camera left just out of frame angled down, I also had a 430ex on a stand camera right with a diffuser cap on. Both were angled about 45 degrees from the camera. Not sure of the power settings for the 430ex's though since you adjust them on the transmitter but I think the bare flash was down pretty low, maybe 1/4 or less power and the one in the softbox was between 1/2 and 2/3 power.  |
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07/01/2010 09:01:50 AM · #9 |
Originally posted by jminso:
It looks like HSS and rear-shutter are available with the radiopoppers PX transmitter. I got the JrX kit(which seems great so far, have to do some tests outside hopefully this evening) which is all manual. But it looks like the JrX receivers are compatible with the PX transmitter, so if I want to go that route I can in the future. I don't have a problem adjusting the lights manually I just wasn't 100% sure about the sync and ttl with them. I imagine what I will be doing is composing my shots and using ttl to get the ambient exposure then just manually adjusting my flash for fill or key, depending on the circumstances. Will take me a few test shots to get it dialed in but one it is there I will be able to just fire away. |
From memory the JrX receivers can do higher speed sync with studio strobes, but I forget if they need a JrX transmitter, or whether it needs to be a PX |
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07/01/2010 06:59:00 AM · #10 |
Originally posted by Nusbaum:
Originally posted by david_c:
Originally posted by jminso:
...but one thing I can't do is HSS or rear curtain sync. |
AFAIK, HSS and rear-curtain are not possible with wireless flash. You can get HSS with a Canon ST-E2 (which I've done), but you lose a bit of punch with the flash output. I was quite disappointed with the fact that I couldn't get a rear-shutter synch with the 7D wireless system... |
I'm sure I sound like a broken record by now, but both HSS and and rear-shutter sync are available with the PocketWizard MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 trigger system. Radio Poppers may also have a solution, but I'm not as familiar with their products. |
It looks like HSS and rear-shutter are available with the radiopoppers PX transmitter. I got the JrX kit(which seems great so far, have to do some tests outside hopefully this evening) which is all manual. But it looks like the JrX receivers are compatible with the PX transmitter, so if I want to go that route I can in the future. I don't have a problem adjusting the lights manually I just wasn't 100% sure about the sync and ttl with them. I imagine what I will be doing is composing my shots and using ttl to get the ambient exposure then just manually adjusting my flash for fill or key, depending on the circumstances. Will take me a few test shots to get it dialed in but one it is there I will be able to just fire away. |
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07/01/2010 04:23:01 AM · #11 |
Originally posted by Nusbaum:
Originally posted by david_c:
Originally posted by jminso:
...but one thing I can't do is HSS or rear curtain sync. |
AFAIK, HSS and rear-curtain are not possible with wireless flash. You can get HSS with a Canon ST-E2 (which I've done), but you lose a bit of punch with the flash output. I was quite disappointed with the fact that I couldn't get a rear-shutter synch with the 7D wireless system... |
I'm sure I sound like a broken record by now, but both HSS and and rear-shutter sync are available with the PocketWizard MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 trigger system. Radio Poppers may also have a solution, but I'm not as familiar with their products. |
Yep, I've tested mine at 1/8000 and it still syncs fine!! Not quite got the rear curtain to work properly though ... only tried it once though |
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07/01/2010 12:06:13 AM · #12 |
Originally posted by david_c:
Originally posted by jminso:
...but one thing I can't do is HSS or rear curtain sync. |
AFAIK, HSS and rear-curtain are not possible with wireless flash. You can get HSS with a Canon ST-E2 (which I've done), but you lose a bit of punch with the flash output. I was quite disappointed with the fact that I couldn't get a rear-shutter synch with the 7D wireless system... |
I'm sure I sound like a broken record by now, but both HSS and and rear-shutter sync are available with the PocketWizard MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 trigger system. Radio Poppers may also have a solution, but I'm not as familiar with their products. |
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06/30/2010 11:26:09 PM · #13 |
Originally posted by Medoomi:
Originally posted by jminso:
OK got my radiopoppers in today and finally got everything setup. I love how I can adjust the power of each flash from the receiver but one thing I can't do is HSS or rear curtain sync. I am thinking I need to get an adapter to hook up the transmitter into the pc sync on the camera body to do all that. Does anyone know if that is correct? |
For HSS or rear curtain sync, you'll need the PX transmitters/receivers (the JrX won't do it). |
Boo. Oh well manual it is. But with then output control for up to three groups of flashes on the transmitter it is pretty sweet. I will need to do several test fires to dial in everything but shouldn't be a problem. Of course i could always invest in a light meter.
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06/30/2010 10:52:58 PM · #14 |
Originally posted by jminso:
OK got my radiopoppers in today and finally got everything setup. I love how I can adjust the power of each flash from the receiver but one thing I can't do is HSS or rear curtain sync. I am thinking I need to get an adapter to hook up the transmitter into the pc sync on the camera body to do all that. Does anyone know if that is correct? |
For HSS or rear curtain sync, you'll need the PX transmitters/receivers (the JrX won't do it). |
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06/30/2010 10:20:11 PM · #15 |
Originally posted by jminso:
...but one thing I can't do is HSS or rear curtain sync. |
AFAIK, HSS and rear-curtain are not possible with wireless flash. You can get HSS with a Canon ST-E2 (which I've done), but you lose a bit of punch with the flash output. I was quite disappointed with the fact that I couldn't get a rear-shutter synch with the 7D wireless system...
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06/30/2010 09:49:02 PM · #16 |
| OK got my radiopoppers in today and finally got everything setup. I love how I can adjust the power of each flash from the receiver but one thing I can't do is HSS or rear curtain sync. I am thinking I need to get an adapter to hook up the transmitter into the pc sync on the camera body to do all that. Does anyone know if that is correct? |
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06/30/2010 05:30:48 PM · #17 |
Originally posted by hopper:
Originally posted by jminso:
I think I would have liked to see the bg +1/3 or +2/3 though but I guess the sun would just be a large blowout then huh? |
Yes, I wanted to try a few different things (umbrella), but the window of opportunity with a 2 year old is very small ... especially at dinner time :) |
lol, yeah it is probably worse then with my 4 year old. |
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06/30/2010 05:23:47 PM · #18 |
Originally posted by jminso:
I think I would have liked to see the bg +1/3 or +2/3 though but I guess the sun would just be a large blowout then huh? |
Yes, I wanted to try a few different things (umbrella), but the window of opportunity with a 2 year old is very small ... especially at dinner time :) |
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06/30/2010 05:20:48 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by hopper:
quick test:
ISO: 100
f/stop: f/18
shutter: 1/250 sec
no flash:
580exII at full power about 5 feet away (bare flash):
I'd say the flash is actually a touch too bright, but adding an umbrella would have made it too dark. And opening up the aperture would have been out of the question at that shutter speed, everything would have been too bright. In the second image, the background is 1 stop underexposed(ish). So yes, a speedlight can "overpower" the sun, but only as a bare bulb from 5 feet away (or less). |
Very cool, thanks for that. I think I would have liked to see the bg +1/3 or +2/3 though but I guess the sun would just be a large blowout then huh?
On a side note I am still awaiting my stuff, ugh. UPS is never this late. |
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06/30/2010 04:54:11 PM · #20 |
quick test:
ISO: 100
f/stop: f/18
shutter: 1/250 sec
no flash:
580exII at full power about 5 feet away (bare flash):
I'd say the flash is actually a touch too bright, but adding an umbrella would have made it too dark. And opening up the aperture would have been out of the question at that shutter speed, everything would have been too bright. In the second image, the background is 1 stop underexposed(ish). So yes, a speedlight can "overpower" the sun, but only as a bare bulb from 5 feet away (or less).
Message edited by author 2010-06-30 17:17:38. |
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06/30/2010 11:15:18 AM · #21 |
| Got my extra flash in and today the rest of the stuff is out for delivery :) Can't wait to start playing some. |
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06/29/2010 06:25:29 PM · #22 |
12 flashes!!!
can't argue with you, though ... your work is stunning :)
Originally posted by Davenit:
Lighting preferences are always determined by how you learned and what you shoot. Me? 12 flashes total... 430's 550's and 580's. ST-E2 trigger. I've tried using studio stuff and could never get use to it. Also, the kinda flash durations I sometimes need are cheaper to obtain with hotshoe stuff. I learned with flashes and it's almost second nature for me now, the thought of changing terrifies me. LOL. If I shot skin tones it might be a different story. |
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06/29/2010 03:58:07 PM · #23 |
| Lighting preferences are always determined by how you learned and what you shoot. Me? 12 flashes total... 430's 550's and 580's. ST-E2 trigger. I've tried using studio stuff and could never get use to it. Also, the kinda flash durations I sometimes need are cheaper to obtain with hotshoe stuff. I learned with flashes and it's almost second nature for me now, the thought of changing terrifies me. LOL. If I shot skin tones it might be a different story. |
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06/29/2010 03:48:02 PM · #24 |
Originally posted by Nusbaum:
One additional possibility is that the sync timing with the pocketwizard is tweaked so less light is wasted on a partially opened shutter. |
Hmmm, yes I remember you mentioning this. I'm using Radio Poppers, so there could be a difference. Only reason I haven't thought further on this one is I thought the advertised extra power only applied to larger strobes (not speedlites...).
One way to tell would be to measure the difference you see between having high speed sync off, and then on (I'm seeing two full stops difference)
Originally posted by Nusbaum:
As a note... I'm not suggesting in any way that one of us is wrong in what we are doing. |
yes, absolutely same here. I'm always on the search for more power, so any help I can get that direction, I'll take :-) |
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06/29/2010 03:15:04 PM · #25 |
Originally posted by Medoomi:
Perhaps I should say up front that I think the difference between what I was seeing & David (correct me if I'm wrong David), is that I'm probably working at a greater distance from my subjects. |
One additional possibility is that the sync timing with the pocketwizard is tweaked so less light is wasted on a partially opened shutter. I think the only way to test that would be to compare a ST-E2 as the trigger vs the pocketwizard. I've also got a softbox I can use in place of the umbrella.
As a note... I'm not suggesting in any way that one of us is wrong in what we are doing. I'm curious about the differences in results as well as being curious about how to improve my lighting in difficult conditions. Thanks for posting! |
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