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01/31/2013 02:36:04 AM · #1 |
| thank you all. nicely presented and linked. |
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01/30/2013 11:04:35 PM · #2 |
Originally posted by kirbic:
What the Sporkster said... I'll just add that:
- With a 100mm-class macro lens (capable of 1:1) and a reverse-mounted 50mm, the theoretical maximum magnification will be 3x. The real-world maximum magnification will be a bit less, because the macro lenses typically have smaller effective focal lengths at maximum magnification. For instance, I can achieve 2.88x with my Canon 100 macro and a reversed 50mm.
- You really want a fast lens for the reversed lens to limit vignetting. It's less a concern for APS-C than for a 35mm sensor. |
Yeah, it's pretty straight forward, really. You could test it out without rings by setting up your camera at the edge of a counter top and building up a platform of whatever in front of it to hold your second lens, then move an object forward and backward in front of the lenses. This will at least give you an idea of what you're dealing with. 3:1 is SUPER small though....  |
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01/30/2013 05:27:07 PM · #3 |
| I may have to try this. I own everything except the reversing rings... |
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01/30/2013 05:25:16 PM · #4 |
Originally posted by Spork99:
The "rear" lens handles the focusing and usually the aperture control. The front lens which normally takes an image of something big and projects it onto the sensor at a much smaller size does exactly the opposite when turned around. see HERE for illustrations |
Thanks for the link — the pictures were really helpful. |
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01/30/2013 04:42:18 PM · #5 |
What the Sporkster said... I'll just add that:
- With a 100mm-class macro lens (capable of 1:1) and a reverse-mounted 50mm, the theoretical maximum magnification will be 3x. The real-world maximum magnification will be a bit less, because the macro lenses typically have smaller effective focal lengths at maximum magnification. For instance, I can achieve 2.88x with my Canon 100 macro and a reversed 50mm.
- You really want a fast lens for the reversed lens to limit vignetting. It's less a concern for APS-C than for a 35mm sensor.
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01/30/2013 04:36:13 PM · #6 |
Originally posted by Ann:
Originally posted by Spork99:
Originally posted by Ann:
Isn't the Tamron 90 already a macro lens? You're probably going to have an easier time using the Tamron in normal orientation than you will trying to reverse a lens.
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Yes it is. The maximum magnification is 1:1, meaning that the image projected onto the sensor will be life size. Mounting a reversed 50mm will increase the magnification beyond that. I prefer extension tubes, but they're a bit more expensive. |
A question, then. I've never reversed a lens onto another lens. I assume you'd need to use a fairly long lens as your "forward" lens, right? Otherwise the focus plane is going to be somewhere inside the camera. |
No. The "rear" lens handles the focusing and usually the aperture control. The front lens which normally takes an image of something big and projects it onto the sensor at a much smaller size does exactly the opposite when turned around. see HERE for illustrations |
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01/30/2013 04:08:49 PM · #7 |
Originally posted by Spork99:
Originally posted by Ann:
Isn't the Tamron 90 already a macro lens? You're probably going to have an easier time using the Tamron in normal orientation than you will trying to reverse a lens.
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Yes it is. The maximum magnification is 1:1, meaning that the image projected onto the sensor will be life size. Mounting a reversed 50mm will increase the magnification beyond that. I prefer extension tubes, but they're a bit more expensive. |
A question, then. I've never reversed a lens onto another lens. I assume you'd need to use a fairly long lens as your "forward" lens, right? Otherwise the focus plane is going to be somewhere inside the camera. |
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01/30/2013 04:01:28 PM · #8 |
Originally posted by Ann:
Isn't the Tamron 90 already a macro lens? You're probably going to have an easier time using the Tamron in normal orientation than you will trying to reverse a lens.
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Yes it is. The maximum magnification is 1:1, meaning that the image projected onto the sensor will be life size. Mounting a reversed 50mm will increase the magnification beyond that. I prefer extension tubes, but they're a bit more expensive. |
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01/30/2013 03:27:13 PM · #9 |
Isn't the Tamron 90 already a macro lens? You're probably going to have an easier time using the Tamron in normal orientation than you will trying to reverse a lens.
But if you really want to try this technique, a cheap 50mm f/1.8 is probably your best bet. They can be had on ebay for <$100. |
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01/30/2013 02:47:51 PM · #10 |
Off the cuff, my suggestion would be to find a cheap 50mm lens (doesn't even need to be Nikon) that has a thread size close to the Tamron 90mm, and buy a ring with double-male threads of the proper sizes to mate them.
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01/30/2013 12:20:10 PM · #11 |
I am using Nikon D5100 and lenses I am having is Nikkor 18-55mm VR lens (filter 52mm), Tamron 90mm F/2.8 (filter 55mm) and Tamron 18-270mm lens (filter 62mm). Is there any converter available to reverse my lenses. Please advise, or If you can suggest any cheaper lens which can be used with my available lenses.
Happy Varghese |
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07/02/2012 12:15:23 PM · #12 |
Originally posted by mike_311:
i have a budget minded friend looking to get into macro, does anyone know of an older canon mount with a manual aperture ring that would be affordable to them? |
The older manual focus FD series Canon lenses can be used for this.
If you want to be able to use the aperture, it's necessary to find and release the latch that holds the knurled lock ring, at the back of the lens, and rotate the ring as you would to mount it on the camera. Then you have to move and hold the longer lever that sticks out of the back of the lens. The aperture ring will then control the aperture. The FD Canon mount series lenses can be found on eBay. They are generally not all that expensive if you keep looking, because they don't fit any of the current cameras without having to use an adapter. Another place to look is flea markets or thrift shops if there's no rush about making the buy.
On lenses like the FD mount where you need to hold a lever to make the aperture ring work the aperture, you can put a small rubber band on the lever, then pull it back over the outside of the lens, and put another rubber band around the whole lens to hold the first one.
An even better option is to cut a small piece of a broad rubber band or something similar, move the lever, and wedge the lever in place with the piece of rubber in the slot, being careful to not lose it into the lens. I also used this "wedge" trick on a G series Nikkor (they have no aperture ring) to keep the aperture open when using an older teleconverter or extension rings.
With many older manual lenses, for instance the Minolta MD mount, and Yashika mount, the aperture ring works the aperture with the lens reversed with no tinkering.
You can use any brand lens that has filter threads, on any brand camera, with a reversing ring to fit the camera. If necessary one reversing ring and a couple of male thread to female thread step up or down rings will allow you to use several lenses with different size filter threads. The limiting factor would be if the lens physically is too big to fit under the prism box that sticks out at the top of the camera.
Message edited by author 2012-07-02 12:38:17.
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07/02/2012 11:18:01 AM · #13 |
Originally posted by mike_311:
so can one use any prime lens to reverse mount? |
Yes, you can. A relatively fast 50mm is always a good choice. Shorter focal lengths will give higher magnification, FWIW. For real fun, get something that can also be mounted normally via a mechanical adapter. That still gives a lot of options, Canon EOS being the most accommodating SLR system with respect to use of lenses from other systems.
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07/02/2012 10:51:25 AM · #14 |
Originally posted by Bear_Music:
Originally posted by mike_311:
i have a budget minded friend looking to get into macro, does anyone know of an older canon mount with a manual aperture ring that would be affordable to them? |
If you're gonna use it strictly for reversing, it doesn't have to be Canon mount... |
lol. good point.
so can one use any prime lens to reverse mount?
Message edited by author 2012-07-02 10:53:14. |
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07/02/2012 08:03:54 AM · #15 |
Originally posted by mike_311:
i have a budget minded friend looking to get into macro, does anyone know of an older canon mount with a manual aperture ring that would be affordable to them? |
If you're gonna use it strictly for reversing, it doesn't have to be Canon mount...
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07/02/2012 07:38:17 AM · #16 |
| i have a budget minded friend looking to get into macro, does anyone know of an older canon mount with a manual aperture ring that would be affordable to them? |
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07/01/2012 11:06:22 AM · #17 |
Originally posted by serRuiz:
1) Would this reverse rings work with the Nikon 50mm f/1.4 AF D ( I suppose the answer is yes as the Filter Thread is still 52mm)
You should be able to reverse this particular lens without any additional hardware. For lenses where the thread size is different, just use the appropriate size Step-up (or step-down ring) |
Originally posted by serRuiz:
2) IN the tutorial it is said that "You lose the ability to focus when reverse mounting a lens". Does this happen also using extension tubes? |
You do to some extent. The range of possible focus becomes very narrow. The more extension tubes you add, the narrower the focus range possible, and the closer the near-focus limit becomes. You focus by moving the camera forward and back to get the subject in focus.
Originally posted by serRuiz:
3) With a kit 18-55 vr lens that does not have an aperture ring "you have to keep the lever on the lens' mount that controls the aperture open by hand". I am sorry for the basic question , but how do you do that? |
You just reach around the front and move the lever. Now, that will open the aperture fully, which probably is not what you want. There is, I believe, a way to get a specific aperture set, but someone with more knowledge of the behavior of the Nikon G lenses will have to chime in. I'm a Canon guy :-)
Originally posted by serRuiz:
4) And finally , Would you recommend using reversing rings in a manual 50 mm lens over using extension tubes in a 18-55 kit ?
thanks a lot in advance and sorry for the basic English |
The reversed 50mm will give you higher magnification than the 18-55 with extension tubes, so if that is what you are after, it might be the way to go. It will be more difficult to use, and less flexible. With the 18-55, you can choose how much extension to add, and thus change the magnification. The reversed 50mm will have essentially a fixed magnification.
By the way, no need to apologize for your English, it's quite good.
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07/01/2012 02:18:53 AM · #18 |
Beautiful photos and great tutorial!
I am starting with this (i own a Nikon 5100), so I hope you do not mind some very basic (and many)questions.
1) Would this reverse rings work with the Nikon 50mm f/1.4 AF D ( I suppose the answer is yes as the Filter Thread is still 52mm)
2) IN the tutorial it is said that "You lose the ability to focus when reverse mounting a lens". Does this happen also using extension tubes?
3) With a kit 18-55 vr lens that does not have an aperture ring "you have to keep the lever on the lens' mount that controls the aperture open by hand". I am sorry for the basic question , but how do you do that?
4) And finally , Would you recommend using reversing rings in a manual 50 mm lens over using extension tubes in a 18-55 kit ?
thanks a lot in advance and sorry for the basic English
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02/09/2010 02:23:27 PM · #19 |
Originally posted by nadyafurnari:
does this ruin the lens at all? i have a 18-55mm IS kit lens, woudl i be able to do this with that without ruining it? |
If you use the proper reversing ring and or step down ring then its no different than screwing a filter on to the front of your lens, easy to assemble and remove and nothing it harmed in the process...
-dave |
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02/09/2010 02:10:57 PM · #20 |
| does this ruin the lens at all? i have a 18-55mm IS kit lens, woudl i be able to do this with that without ruining it? |
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09/12/2009 11:40:51 AM · #21 |
Originally posted by yjoshi:
Has anyone tried it with Canon 18-55 IS lens? Will it work and what will be the impact? |
I have reversed my 50mm on my non IS 18-55 and it works just fine, should on the IS one as well, you will just need a step down ring with the reversing ring as its a tad bigger than the 50mm prime.
-dave
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09/12/2009 11:32:45 AM · #22 |
| Has anyone tried it with Canon 18-55 IS lens? Will it work and what will be the impact? |
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11/21/2008 07:15:46 PM · #23 |
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11/21/2008 06:39:43 PM · #24 |
Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:
ha! try that with an old 24mm lens!!! the wider it is Reversed, the closer you can get... |
A 50mm is always a good starting point because it is so cheap and (at least with Nikon), the 50mm lens and reversing ring have the same thread size so no step-up/down rings are necessary. A 24mm lens with get you closer than a 50mm, but will have a short working distance (it's already very short with the 50mm...) which will make lighting your subject difficult.
Originally posted by Anti-Martyr:
I handhold the vast majority of my reversed shots. You don't really lose light with reversing rings, so tripods aren't NECESSARY unless you want to make very sure your focus doesn't shift. |
I find that a tripod is very useful to get the focus right, the DOF is very shallow even when the lens is stopped down.
Originally posted by colorcarnival:
Originally posted by darnok:
Originally posted by colorcarnival:
beautiful pictures. did you use a tripod to take those pictures or did you steady your camera some other way? |
I sometimes use a tripod depending on circumstances, the bee and chameleon photo were taken hand help, with other two with a tripod. |
I think that is some info you should include in your tutorial. I know that when you hand hold the reverse mount, the slightest movement will throw off the focus. |
I plan to update my tutorial with some more information about using a tripod and DOF. Anything else anyone feels I should add? |
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11/09/2008 01:54:27 PM · #25 |
Nice tutorial. I have experimented recently with taping my 50mm/1.8 reversed in front of my 90mm macro lens and it was fascinating to get so close to things like this dime (which I shoehorned and almost got my first brown with):
Is there a reason for attaching the ring to the camera first? I would have guessed you'd want to attach the ring to the lens first and then to the camera just to shorten the time the camera body is open to dust.
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