Don't worry, I wont cry or get mad...

Nikon AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 ED

01/18/2008 02:45:30 AM · #1

If I want to add interest to a background, I usually take a texture from here:
//www.mayang.com/textures/Metal/html/Flat%20Metal%20Textures/

Put it in a layer in overlay or softlight mode. And then mask the subject. Might want to Guassian blur the texture just a bit to make it less distracting.

BeeCee

Nikon D40

01/18/2008 02:16:04 AM · #2

Looks like a demon-face peeking over her shoulder now :)

01/18/2008 01:31:36 AM · #3

Originally posted by wavelength:

Originally posted by Eyesup:
This is an edit of one of my favs from this set... comments:

original: [thumb]629767[/thumb]

edit: [thumb]634584[/thumb]

I think simply cloning out the line in the backdrop would have sufficed.

I'm gonna have to agree.

wavelength

Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D

01/17/2008 11:39:00 PM · #4

Originally posted by Eyesup:

This is an edit of one of my favs from this set... comments:

original: [thumb]629767[/thumb]

edit: [thumb]634584[/thumb]

I think simply cloning out the line in the backdrop would have sufficed.

trevytrev

Canon EOS-5D

Canon EF 16-35mm f/2.8L USM

01/17/2008 10:56:40 PM · #5

left a comment.

01/17/2008 10:47:42 PM · #6

This is an edit of one of my favs from this set... comments:

original: [thumb]629767[/thumb]

edit: [thumb]634584[/thumb]

01/08/2008 01:41:58 PM · #7

Originally posted by jaysonmc:

Tilt is generally used to give energy to the photo or to enhance lines across the frame. For me, those two photos don't seem to do either, they just appear titled. However, that could be a personal preference I see.

However like all rules, tilted shots can break the norm. Hope that helps.

Yes that explains it much more... thanks

jaysonmc

Nikon D200

Nikon MF 105mm f/2.5 AIS

01/08/2008 01:37:41 PM · #8

01/08/2008 01:32:52 PM · #9

Originally posted by jaysonmc:

I wouldn't use the tilted ones as you are not really using the titled frame.

Maybe it's just cause I'm tired today... but I don't get your comment... explain please?

jaysonmc

Nikon D200

Nikon MF 105mm f/2.5 AIS

01/08/2008 01:23:09 PM · #10

I wouldn't use the tilted ones as you are not really using the titled frame.

01/08/2008 01:10:06 PM · #11

Originally posted by loriprophoto:

Originally posted by fotomann_forever:
If you're doing production line shooting f8 or f/11 would be a great choice. Especially if you have a controlled background anyway.

However, it seems he is working fairly close to his subject, so focus will still need to be on the eyes, even at f/22.

Oh absolutely Leroy I agree but it does allow a little more margin for error. I am not a fan of soft focus in portraits, but that is just me, but I agree 100% that the eyes are the number one focus point, sorry if i made it sound like it wasnt.

So the 'eyes' have it..lol

I'll make sure my camera is set to S and not C... have a shoot tonight for practice so we'll see how that comes out :)

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM

01/08/2008 11:55:51 AM · #12

I kinda go back and forth on my like/dislike of shallow DoF on portraits :-D

loriprophoto

Canon EOS-20D

01/08/2008 11:52:56 AM · #13

Originally posted by fotomann_forever:

If you're doing production line shooting f8 or f/11 would be a great choice. Especially if you have a controlled background anyway.

However, it seems he is working fairly close to his subject, so focus will still need to be on the eyes, even at f/22.

Oh absolutely Leroy I agree but it does allow a little more margin for error. I am not a fan of soft focus in portraits, but that is just me, but I agree 100% that the eyes are the number one focus point, sorry if i made it sound like it wasnt.

Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L USM

01/08/2008 11:48:54 AM · #14

loriprophoto

Canon EOS-20D

01/08/2008 11:41:57 AM · #15

Originally posted by FocusPoint:

Originally posted by loriprophoto:
Another thing, hope I didnt miss it, but what settings were you shooting these on? The DOF issues may be a result of a larger f-stop (f4 or f5.6). It is a good idea to shoot at f8 or f11 sometimes higher if your lights are capable.

The best is 2.8 :) well, for me at least :)

I agree but at f2.8 or f4 your depth of field is far less than at f8 or f11 and then the focus point becomes more critical. So for starting out I would recommend trying a variety of settings. This all coming from someone who has shot thousands and thousands of school portraits (mugshots!!!), hey my claim to fame is that one year I did the school portraits for the Westminster Abbey Boy's Choir in London and also was part of a team of photographers who shot the group Graduation portraits at the Southampton University in England!!! LOL, production line stuff!

Another thing on her expression, I find that a lot of teenage girls don't like to have the cheesy smile so I normally just ask them to lick their lips and relax their mouths a tad so that their lips arent pressed together. So many teenagers these days seem to have braces on their teeth too which makes them self conscious.

When you lock your focus on the eyes, do you move the camera at all to frame the shot better? Sometimes the focus point is not quite in the area of one of the sensors and I find I am often tempted to move the camera slightly to get the focus and then hold the shutter and move slightly to reframe the shot.

Okay thats my diatribe for the day, hope it helps. Most of all have fun doing what you are doing.

Nusbaum

Fujifilm X-T1

Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM

01/07/2008 06:18:39 PM · #16

Originally posted by Eyesup:

a) lighting still needs some work to make sure the subject isn't washedout (suggestions on light configs that might work well would be appreciated)

I've struggled with lighting recently and starting with recommended light configs was a huge part of the problem. Start with one light and get it where you want it first. Look at the eyes and look for a 3 dimensional look from the shadows. Once you are happy, add a fill flash or a reflector if required. Once again look for dimension from the shadows. Once this is working, look for some separation from the background. If needed, add a hair light, rim light or background light to add some separation.

I had to go back to this myself, but now things are improving and I'm finding my own light.

geoffb

01/07/2008 06:16:59 PM · #17

Originally posted by Eyesup:

Originally posted by fotomann_forever:
... One Shot focus mode.

I'm not sure on Nikon equivalents, but this may be your problem.

I'm not sure if it does or not off the top of my head (don't have the camera near so I can't check) I'm sure it does though

It does. The switch is right next to the lens release button (marked "C", "S", and "M"). If it's on "C", that's probably the problem.

Nikon AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D

01/07/2008 05:59:44 PM · #18

Originally posted by _eug:

You get a pat on the back and an, ��Ataboy!� Points are no longer awarded. ;)

NO POINTS!!!!! Now that's something to go whining about....lol

_eug

Nikon D50

01/07/2008 05:55:36 PM · #19

You get a pat on the back and an, ��Ataboy!� Points are no longer awarded. ;)

01/07/2008 05:46:40 PM · #20

Originally posted by FocusPoint:

You know I admire you, you put those images direct from your camera. That actually is a lot better than showing PSed version, wouldn't help you too much.

So, maybe you skip (c) and go with others. If you need help improving your photography, not PS ability, put them as they came out from the machine and tell people what is your intention... to improve your photography :)

My point is definatly to improve the photography! cause really.. in the end... you can only do so much PSing to a crapy image... Thanks for the encoragement!

btw. do I get points for keeping to my work and not whining or complaining about the comments I got? lol... (which btw where all great and very much appreciated.)

01/07/2008 05:45:45 PM · #21

Originally posted by FocusPoint:

You do make a good point.

FocusPoint

XIAOMI Redmi Note 8 Pro

01/07/2008 05:41:09 PM · #22

01/07/2008 05:21:54 PM · #23

Originally posted by fotomann_forever:

Originally posted by Eyesup:
[quote=emorgan49]
True... I use spyder 2 to calibrate my monitor on a regular basis... problem is that even that depennds on when you're caibrating it, if you're near windows, what type of light you're under (we just switched from regualr to those high efficency things)... so even spyder isn't perfect.... I does match my prints rather well though, so...

The thing is, you need to proof for whatever media you are publishing to. If you're making a print, proof to the printer's profile (if you have one) If you are proofing for web, proof to sRGB or at least Monitor RGB.

Point taken... these are really for print.

So let's see what we've learned today (let me know if I've missed something:
a) lighting still needs some work to make sure the subject isn't washedout (suggestions on light configs that might work well would be appreciated)
b) Make sure the focus of the shot doesn't wander to the crotch (unless it's an artistic nude...lol)
c) do PS before you put them up on DPC (if time permitted I would have)
d) make sure your model doesn't wear pink eye shadow :) (well not much to do about that.... it's who she is)

Did I miss anything?