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08/13/2011 12:22:50 AM · #1 |
| I would still blow up the old tank just on principle. |
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08/12/2011 11:46:19 AM · #2 |
| awesome. brilliant. - slippy all dry now - no more slippy slidey? |
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08/12/2011 11:05:45 AM · #3 |
Originally posted by Strikeslip:
It's done. The old tank is gone and a new one is installed. Unfortunately, not fast enough to beat the mathmagicians. ;-D |
I was going to say just leave it to the professionals. LOL! I had mine replaced a few weeks ago (though mine was still running well) and they didn't get a drop of water anywhere. |
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08/12/2011 11:03:56 AM · #4 |
It's done. The old tank is gone and a new one is installed. Unfortunately, not fast enough to beat the mathmagicians. ;-D
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08/12/2011 10:10:45 AM · #5 |
Multiply the time calculated by 3 because all those numbers clog up the hole.
ETA, This isn't the first time Slippy has gotten himself into hot water around here.
Message edited by author 2011-08-12 10:13:58.
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08/12/2011 07:52:36 AM · #6 |
Originally posted by JH:
Slippy, I think your calculations are off.
The maximum possible drain rate for a tank with a hole or tap at the base can be calculated directly from Bernoulli's equation, and is found to be proportional to the square root of the height of the fluid in the tank. This is Torricelli's law, showing that Torricelli's law is compatible with Bernoulli's principle. Viscosity lowers this drain rate. This is reflected in the discharge coefficient, which is a function of the Reynolds number and the shape of the orifice.
In summary, you should be using the following equation to determine how long it'll take to drain the tank.
You'll need to adjust this if you increase the size of the hole with a hammer. |
that will give him that max drain rate, not the time to drain.
you need to use a differential equation since the height of the water varies with time. the tank will drain faster with more water in it and then slow as the column of water get shorter.
V=Volume (cf)
T=Time
Ad=area of the drain hole (in^2)
g=Gravity
h= height of tank
we set up our DE of Volume with respect to time
dV/dt = Ad*sqrt(2gh)
after intgrating we get
V = Ad*sqrt(2gh)*t + C1
now we need to apply the boundary conditions, namely at t=0 V=6.7CF (50 gal)
substituting we get
V=Ad*sqrt(2gh)*0 + 6.69 yields C1 = -6.7
so now if you want to know the volume at any time, use the equation
V = Ad*sqrt(2gh)* t - 6.7
or in this you want to know how long it will take, so solve for t when V = 0, you can make an assumption on the drain area.
t = 6.7/(Ad*sqrt(2gh)
the size of the drain hole (Ad) will govern the flow rate, so in conclusion if you want to drain it faster, drill a bigger hole.
Message edited by author 2011-08-12 07:54:11. |
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08/12/2011 07:17:00 AM · #7 |
| COULD NOT HAVE SAID IT MYSELF better |
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08/12/2011 05:34:32 AM · #8 |
Slippy, I think your calculations are off.
The maximum possible drain rate for a tank with a hole or tap at the base can be calculated directly from Bernoulli's equation, and is found to be proportional to the square root of the height of the fluid in the tank. This is Torricelli's law, showing that Torricelli's law is compatible with Bernoulli's principle. Viscosity lowers this drain rate. This is reflected in the discharge coefficient, which is a function of the Reynolds number and the shape of the orifice.
In summary, you should be using the following equation to determine how long it'll take to drain the tank.
You'll need to adjust this if you increase the size of the hole with a hammer.
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08/12/2011 12:10:40 AM · #9 |
Get a 5 gallon bucket or two, a big funnel, and a big shop-vac. Take the wires off the upper element and unscrew it. Use the funnel to drain the water into the bucket or buckets. When the water gets down that far, then you can use the hole and siphon the rest of the water out with your garden hose. To start the siphon, hook the hose to a faucet, put the hose into the hole, and toward the bottom of the tank. Turn on the water to the hose to drive out the air, then disconnect the end at the faucet. You can then lay the end outside, or catch it in buckets. If you are using a short hose and buckets, there are several ways to start the siphon.
You need to use the vac to pick up all the water that you can, and get some fans or blowers to help dry the carpet. Some places here rent big blowers that you can place under the edge of the carpet to force air and help dry it out. The moisture in the air will need a way to get out too, so it will help to make sure that you have ventilation through the room or rooms that are wet. If you close it up, it will be like a greenhouse and ruin everything in the rooms.
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08/12/2011 12:02:23 AM · #10 |
Assuming you have hard water, and if you do not drain your tank on a regular basis then I would bet money that your drain pipe is plugged solid.
You might consider looking at the following Removing Sediment from HW Tank
Good luck to you with your project.
Ray |
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08/11/2011 11:45:18 PM · #11 |
Originally posted by Art Roflmao:
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Getter Done! |
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08/11/2011 08:46:36 PM · #12 |
Now, I think you should try this...
It'll drain the water heater AND remove it from your house all in record time. |
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08/11/2011 07:49:40 PM · #13 |
get a bucket and a sump pump. drill a hole, let it drain into the bucket and use the sump to pump it out.
also make sure that you pull that carpet back and replace the pad so you don't get mold and a mildew smell in your mancave.
Message edited by author 2011-08-11 19:52:21. |
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08/11/2011 07:33:29 PM · #14 |
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08/11/2011 06:45:30 PM · #15 |
| I don't know much about water heaters, but I really like your Canadian accent. :) |
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08/11/2011 06:25:47 PM · #16 |
Originally posted by Marfun:
Opening the pressure relief valve on the tank itself usually relieves any vacuum better than opening a faucet. If you have access to compressed air you can occasionally alleviate this problem by blowing air back through your drain hose to push the sediment out of the valve and back into the tank. If you're going to go be beating on the valve with a hammer make sure all your faucets and other valves are closed first, or you'll never keep up with the water flow if you break that valve off, you 'll want all the vacuum you can get then. |
Or use air Like suggest above, I was to slow.... |
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08/11/2011 06:24:36 PM · #17 |
| If it is sediment you might try forcing water into the tank through the drain hose so the sediment gets pushed away from the drain. To do that you need to make an adapter for one end of the hose so you could hook it to a water faucet and to the drain, then open the drain and a few faucets so the water has a place to flow then turn the water on. If it is sediment the water flowing into the tank should clear the passage then it might drain. |
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08/11/2011 06:04:18 PM · #18 |
| The fun starts when you've had one whiskey too many and decide to start sucking on the pipe instead of blowing. |
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08/11/2011 05:46:52 PM · #19 |
| Opening the pressure relief valve on the tank itself usually relieves any vacuum better than opening a faucet. If you have access to compressed air you can occasionally alleviate this problem by blowing air back through your drain hose to push the sediment out of the valve and back into the tank. If you're going to go be beating on the valve with a hammer make sure all your faucets and other valves are closed first, or you'll never keep up with the water flow if you break that valve off, you 'll want all the vacuum you can get then. |
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08/11/2011 05:31:53 PM · #20 |
Originally posted by Strikeslip:
Video update part 2
It's running a bit faster now than when I started this video. At this rate maybe 10 hours to drain? It's tempting to take  JH's advice and go at it with a rod & hammer, or maybe a drill... we shall see.
Hopefully it's not half water & half sludge like  Spork99's 8-O |
Originally posted by pointandshoot:
Be sure to change into your Batman Snuggie before the plumber gets there. They give discounts to Batman. |
That could make an entertaining video.
Originally posted by mundilitli:
If that poking thing didn't work you could try if the first fitting on the bottom right (where the cold water goes in) is an union is to put the hose there. Just have all the valves and faucets are closed while you unjoin the union and put the hose on. You will probably get some spill though. but it should work. |
That's out of my reach without breaking the copper pipes that exit the top. I'd leave that to the pro's... or the wife. ;-)
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I emptied & measured the first bin, Six gallons went in about an hour, not too shabby. 40 more to go, which divides to about seven, but I expect the flow rate to decrease or stop as time goes. I'm going to break out the whiskey and play some Black Ops while keeping an eye on the bin.
Message edited by author 2011-08-11 17:37:26.
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08/11/2011 04:51:51 PM · #21 |
Video update part 2
It's running a bit faster now than when I started this video. At this rate maybe 10 hours to drain? It's tempting to take JH's advice and go at it with a rod & hammer, or maybe a drill... we shall see.
Hopefully it's not half water & half sludge like Spork99's 8-O
Message edited by author 2011-08-11 16:52:50.
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08/11/2011 04:43:12 PM · #22 |
| If that poking thing didn't work you could try if the first fitting on the bottom right (where the cold water goes in) is an union is to put the hose there. Just have all the valves and faucets are closed while you unjoin the union and put the hose on. You will probably get some spill though. but it should work. |
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08/11/2011 04:02:22 PM · #23 |
Just one more advice and then I am oot of here. When you replace your tank make sure you have room to troubleshoot any leakage problems.
So glad we live in Canada where the plumbing is more subtle: 
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08/11/2011 03:49:24 PM · #24 |
Be sure to change into your Batman Snuggie before the plumber gets there. They give discounts to Batman.
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08/11/2011 03:48:24 PM · #25 |
If it's like mine was, you have 25 gal of hot water and 25 gal of sludge.
Have you opened a hot water faucet somewhere? When you drain it, you need to shut off the fill valve, open the outlet and then open a hot water faucet or otherwise vent the system to allow air in to replace the water.
If that doesn't work, I'd close the outlet valve, open the drain and poke around with a screwdriver, then if you get it to drain a bit, put the hose back on the drain, open the outlet/faucet and drain.
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