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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> Light Modifiers... Soft Box, ect...
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11/12/2009 11:53:51 PM · #1

I want to get into doing more portraits and body shots....

I have one 24x36 softbox... is that big enough, or would you suggest a bigger one?

what's an octabox or a strip box for?

I have a bounch of umbrellas but I don't use them much...
11/13/2009 12:03:25 AM · #2
Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:

I want to get into doing more portraits and body shots....

I have one 24x36 softbox... is that big enough, or would you suggest a bigger one?

what's an octabox or a strip box for?

I have a bounch of umbrellas but I don't use them much...


An octabox is a softbox that has (oct)(8) sides instead of 4. It just gives you a different reflection in the eyes of your models. I would say that it offers a better light source but you can a 6foot softbox and it will do the same thing as a 4' octabox.

A stripbox is generally used to light the length of a subject. for example if your shooting a woman and you want to light her form head to feet, you could use a stripbox. It's a tall softbox.
11/13/2009 12:06:08 AM · #3
The downside to using umbrellas is that you lose a lot ( A LOT) of light from the back side of them. The light does go through the umbrella but a large portion of the light bounces off the white and back the wrong way.

I actually have a small softbox 16"x16" I think I use all the time with my SB-800. I use it with about 95% of my set up shots. I even use it for weddings. I love it. The downside to it is I have to rig it with my Gary Fong Lightsphere so my flash stays on the softbox.

Message edited by author 2009-11-13 00:09:25.
11/13/2009 12:11:29 AM · #4
hmmm...

interesting, thanks!

is a 10x36 strip box big enough for a model?
11/13/2009 12:26:18 AM · #5
Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:

hmmm...

interesting, thanks!

is a 10x36 strip box big enough for a model?


Depends on what type of shot your after. One thing to remember is the further away you move your lights the bigger and softer they get. If you want to shoot from head to toe I would go bigger but if your using strip boxes then it's best to have 2 of them, one for each side. Another option is to use a white bookend or a reflector to bounce some of that light back on to your model. It will add depth and contrast to the image but you can do the same thing with just moving your second strip box back a good 4-6 feet. So another question would be do you have the room needed?

11/13/2009 12:32:20 AM · #6
Room isn't a problem =)

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I'll have to look more into those strip boxes...

What about lighting a car? would you use umbrellas or a Huge ass softbox?

Message edited by author 2009-11-13 00:32:48.
11/13/2009 12:42:07 AM · #7
Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:

Room isn't a problem =)

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I'll have to look more into those strip boxes...

What about lighting a car? would you use umbrellas or a Huge ass softbox?


Yeah I would say you have plenty of room. Another thing you should do is paint your bookends white. That way you can use them to bounce light around. You could point a light into them and the reflective light that comes off is VERY soft and perfect for a lot of things.

If I was lighting a car I would probable use about 6 umbrellas about 10+ feet away just so I don't get the reflections of the umbrellas. You could also use a long shutter speed to light it and it would probably give you better lighting but if your after the same affect that the big dogs use, your after a huge softbox. Let me look for it and I'll post it when I find it
11/13/2009 12:46:02 AM · #8
This isn't the one I was talking about but it's neat to see them working on everything.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=WplParZ63tM
11/13/2009 12:56:54 AM · #9
for the life of me I can't find it. It's a video that looks like it's shot inside of a huge fabric balloon. They have lights all over the place and a tiny hole for the camera lens. I'll look for it tomorrow or if someone else knows where it is post it please.
11/13/2009 12:57:32 AM · #10
Awesome! what about photographing cars outside on site?

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That's one I did last year but with just natutral sun light.. I want to do some at night and have more control of the light...

what lighting would I use for that?
11/13/2009 07:11:34 AM · #11
Actually The light tends to get softer when you move it closer.

Originally posted by Dirt_Diver:



Depends on what type of shot your after. One thing to remember is the further away you move your lights the bigger and softer they get.
11/13/2009 07:43:45 AM · #12
If your wanting to photograph cars at night I would probably shoot it just after the sun goes down and there is still light outside. You could put on an orange gel and set your camera to tungsten and it should give you some really awesome colors. It's going to be trial and error until you get something you like.

11/13/2009 07:45:29 AM · #13
Originally posted by Bugzeye:

Actually The light tends to get softer when you move it closer.

Originally posted by Dirt_Diver:



Depends on what type of shot your after. One thing to remember is the further away you move your lights the bigger and softer they get.


Ahh yes you are correct.

Message edited by author 2009-11-13 07:58:24.
11/13/2009 12:08:45 PM · #14
//www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtMQtAz250c&feature=fvw

Here is another method I think is fantastic if you can get the surroundings dark enough. Can be used on location as well.
11/13/2009 12:29:48 PM · #15
Love to have all that room. The height of my ceiling is only 8ft, makes it tough. You can get black covers over the back of the umbrellas to keep from losing light bouncing through them, helps you from losing light & you have more control over them like soft boxes.

Edit; when using my soft boxes I get as close as I can so to get a nice clean wrap around light on your subject. No further away than 5ft. or so

Message edited by author 2009-11-13 13:09:47.
11/13/2009 06:51:55 PM · #16
Originally posted by ace flyman:

Love to have all that room. The height of my ceiling is only 8ft, makes it tough. You can get black covers over the back of the umbrellas to keep from losing light bouncing through them, helps you from losing light & you have more control over them like soft boxes.

Edit; when using my soft boxes I get as close as I can so to get a nice clean wrap around light on your subject. No further away than 5ft. or so


Take a picture of the black side of your umbrellas with your flash on. You shouldn't see any light. If you do then your losing light. It won't be enough to be a deal breaker but you still lose light there. FWIW I use them all the time.
11/13/2009 07:34:09 PM · #17
Originally posted by Mike_Adams:

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtMQtAz250c&feature=fvw

Here is another method I think is fantastic if you can get the surroundings dark enough. Can be used on location as well.


That's pretty awesome!

I have to do a photoshoot of a Benz tomorrow... i might give that a try... it looks pretty awesome... easy too because you don't need a flash trigger... just pop the test button as you walk around the car...

Thanks!!!

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11/13/2009 07:52:08 PM · #18
ok... Here's a pic I took for someone randomly when I was down taking pics of the city... I had no flashes or strobes whatsoever...

I want to re-take this shot for a new client using a soft box... here's my question.. will I have white ballence issues with the city lights v.s. the soft box lighting on the car? will they be easily fixed in Camera Raw by ajdusting the white balance in layers for the car separately than the city lights?

thanks

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Message edited by author 2009-11-13 19:53:36.
11/13/2009 07:59:29 PM · #19
re: losing spill from umbrellas.

Get some silver foil, drape it over the back of the umbrella.

It won't be pretty but it works and increases the amount of light going towards the subject.
11/13/2009 08:04:56 PM · #20
Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:

will I have white ballence issues with the city lights v.s. the soft box lighting on the car?

You could always set your white balance exposure for the city lights, and gel your strobe appropriately...i.e. if you're on a tungsten WB for the city lights, you would use a CTO gel to bring your subject back in line.
11/13/2009 08:27:07 PM · #21
Originally posted by david_c:

Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:

will I have white ballence issues with the city lights v.s. the soft box lighting on the car?

You could always set your white balance exposure for the city lights, and gel your strobe appropriately...i.e. if you're on a tungsten WB for the city lights, you would use a CTO gel to bring your subject back in line.


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How do I Gel my strobe if I am using a softbox?

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Message edited by author 2009-11-13 22:44:19.
11/13/2009 10:44:11 PM · #22
How do I Gel my strobe if I am using a softbox?
11/13/2009 11:07:27 PM · #23
Originally posted by Shutter-For-Hire:

How do I Gel my strobe if I am using a softbox?


Sounds like a personal question, hahaha You might want to ask dad about this one.
11/13/2009 11:11:41 PM · #24
hahahahhahahahaha
11/13/2009 11:12:22 PM · #25
What strobe will you be using with the softbox?
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