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06/24/2007 06:25:41 AM · #1 |
kinda new to the digital age, what are the real benefits to using raw vs. Jpeg or tiff. I have a d200, is large/fine JPEG good enough for making large prints?
Thanks in advance for any replies. |
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06/24/2007 06:53:44 AM · #2 |
You might try a forum search on that topic. A Google search on "raw vs jpeg" also yields lots to read. It also depends on how large you mean for a large print.
Message edited by author 2007-06-24 06:59:51.
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06/24/2007 07:26:57 AM · #3 |
Originally posted by Room11:
kinda new to the digital age, what are the real benefits to using raw vs. Jpeg or tiff. I have a d200, is large/fine JPEG good enough for making large prints?
Thanks in advance for any replies. |
When working with a jpeg (jpg) every time you open, work with it, or save - it looses quality. I use to shoot jpg all the time and it looks better out of the camera because the camera will process the image (color, sharpness, etc) but as post process the image the jpg begins to get artifacts. If you shoot in RAW that is what you get a RAW image. It's has not been manipulated by the camera so when you see the original it will look softer and bland. But that is where post processing comes in, you can bring out the original detail, work on it, and save it to psd or tiff. I save to tiff most of the time because I can open the image up and work on it some more, as many times as I want withOUT loosing quality. Then when I get the results I want I save the tiff and then save a JPG version for print.
Hope this helps, I know other will chime in that know more and can explain better. But I advise shooting RAW when possible. Tiff takes up to much space and jpg will degrade as you work on it.
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06/24/2007 07:47:56 AM · #4 |
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06/24/2007 10:15:21 AM · #5 |
I'm curious what you guys tend to play with when doing conversions and what you leave at default.
I use Capture One LE and I'm not always sure what's best to do in it and what's best to leave for PS. For example, correcting exposure/levels, brightness and contrast are better from RAW but noise, sharpness adjustment might better be left for PS?
Message edited by author 2007-06-24 10:53:49. |
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06/24/2007 10:30:51 AM · #6 |
Originally posted by pawdrix:
I'm curious what you guys tend to play with when doing conversions and what you leave at default. |
Nikon Capture NX
-exposure compensation
-whitebalance
-tone (contrast)
-color balance
-curves
-color profile (sRGB/Adobe RGB)
-anything else if I feel it needs it
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06/24/2007 10:55:47 AM · #7 |
Originally posted by swhiddon:
When working with a jpeg (jpg) every time you open, work with it, or save - it looses quality. |
Just to clear up that statement - the only time you lose quality is when you save the JPEG.
You are not the first I've seen that statement from and I dunno who started this "it loses quality when you open it" train of thought, but it's just untrue. If that were the case, images in the nude gallery at DPC would be unrecognizable in under a day, since they are opened every time they are viewed.
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06/24/2007 11:17:17 AM · #8 |
Ok, I've got a question. This thread got me thinking about RAW and I read the link from above and now know that I can work with RAW through Adobe Bridge. My question is this, I also have Adobe Image Ready and am not sure what that is for. Whats the difference between this and Bridge and CS2?
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06/24/2007 11:41:19 AM · #9 |
Not an expert but ImageReady is as far as i know more tailored to the design aspect and web implementation of images - so converting a set of images to an animated gif, or slicing images (cutting up a jpeg into smaller parts so it loads quicker overall) and adding html to "hot spots" etc...
Remember CS2 stands for "Creative Suite 2" which means it is the complete package, so basically includes Photoshop, ImageReady and Bridge (unless you get the premium edition etc). So Photoshop is image editing, bridge is ...well i think it is just a bridge/browser between the two - i hardly use it because i havent had anyone point out the benefits of using it as opposed to Windows Explorer and your right click options, and ImageReady is the design and web side of things.
That's how i see it anyway...
Message edited by author 2007-06-24 11:42:00. |
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06/24/2007 12:40:57 PM · #10 |
Originally posted by pawdrix:
I'm curious what you guys tend to play with when doing conversions and what you leave at default.
I use Capture One LE and I'm not always sure what's best to do in it and what's best to leave for PS. For example, correcting exposure/levels, brightness and contrast are better from RAW but noise, sharpness adjustment might better be left for PS? |
In Canon Digital Photo Professional
Raw Tab
Brightness (exposure) - Always
White Balance - Always Check
Picture Style - Sometimes to Boost/Calm Colors
Shadow Point/Highlight Point (RAW Histogram) - Always
Contrast (affects curve) - Always check to see how it affects the shot
Color Saturation - Sometimes add 1
Sharpness - sometimes add 1
RGB tab
Tone Assist, Tone Assist + or Luminace/R/G/B Curves
Brightness/Contrast (I do those on the RGB Histogram above)
Hue (I don't do hues during RAW conversion)
Saturation (sometimes I will bump it up a tad)
Question to those using DPP for converting RAW
Do you adjust Sharpness on the RGB tab or do you sharpen in your editor? If so, how sharp on the slider do you go?
The reason I ask is because when I sharpen on the RGB tab (usually around 140-180), it is easy to get artifacts with even the slightest of sharpen in post p. Is it easier (better) to do all sharpening after the conversion.
Message edited by author 2007-06-24 12:45:12. |
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