Question(s)--from a non-strobist

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II

09/28/2009 04:27:07 PM · #1

I am, by no stretch of the imagination, a strobist photographer.

Having said that, I need to rent a flash (or two?) to take some photos Wednesday evening at sunset. These will be of some people (a couple) with the sunset in the background. I consider myself very proficient at landscaped sunset compositions, but need some tips on what to do for a flash to fill in the subjects. I plan on taking bust shots, as well as full body captures of the couple (and probably of a small group of people, too).

I have a Canon 40D and need suggestions on a flash. I plan on renting a flash. Also, if I put this flash off-camera (on a stand) how can I wirelessly trigger this flash with my 40D? Is this something that this camera can already do with the proper flash? Do I need something on my hotshoe to do this? I'm planning on going to the camera equipment rental place this evening and any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Finally, do I even need to set the flash off-camera? Could I get by with it on my hotshoe and only use that (with or without a diffuser or deflector)?

Oh, I almost forgot, I'll also be taking photos later on at an indoor gathering with a flash (mixture of candids and poses).

Thanks!

MattO

Nikon D4

09/28/2009 04:34:40 PM · #2

Just a suggestion, but this probably isn't the best time to learn off camera flash. Especially if this is an event you were hired for. But if you are hell bent on doing it then lets see if I can help.

I use 3 580EXII's off camera and an SB-28 as well. I have AB cybersync battery powered receivers with cords on the flashes with umbrella mounts and stands. Everything is manual on these. No ETTL at all. You will need a transmitter on the camera, and I highly suggest a light meter. Meter for the sky and then meter for the people with flash, I'd also suggest gelling them to match the wb of the sun, otherwise they will be very flashy white, with a warm sunset behind them. Also prepare to change your flash setting constantly as the sunset happens lighting conditions will change fast. As far as the other indoor, I'd suggest just using on camera ETTL and a modifier, either a fongster or Demb Flip it.

Matt

Olympus OM-D E-M1 Mark III

09/28/2009 04:47:46 PM · #3

Yeah, it's not that formal or critical of a shoot. I'm doing this for a friend. You're right, I don't have time for umbrellas, cords, etc.

I was with a strobist not too long ago and he has a Nikon body (D300) and a flash. He put the flash off to the side and it was trigger remotely without any extra equipment (via IR? or maybe through the built-in flash?) Can this be done with a 40D? If not built-in, what's involved with using a wireless transmitter?

Message edited by author 2009-09-28 16:48:41.

RamblinR

Olympus 12-40mm f/2.8 Pro

09/28/2009 05:08:11 PM · #4

The 40d does not have the ability to fire a flash remotely like the Nikon D300 does.

If you want ETTL a way around this would be to hire 2 flashes. Have one on the body and one on a stand. You can use the one on the body to trigger the other flash. The one on the body could also be used for fill depending on how you are lighting the subject.

You could also go with a flash and an ST-E2 to trigger it, or a flash and an OEC3 cord (a longer one would work).

Otherwise manual with a flash trigger. I have the Yongnu flash triggers and they are excellent. If you buy just the one for the Canon 40 do you can also use it to trigger your camera remotely when not using it for a flash so a worthwhile purchase anyway.

Hope I've been helpful.

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

09/28/2009 05:29:45 PM · #5

Thanks, Maria, for the available options.

So, it looks like I would prefer one of these options:

1) Use two flashes (one off-body, one on-body) and use the on-body to trigger the off-body

2) Use one (or more) off-body flashes and trigger them with an ST-E2.

.
To help in my decision, I have more questions:

a) For the first option, do the flashes have to be the same model? What does everyone recommend?

b) For the second option, what flashes does the ST-E2 require? Is there a link to a list of such flashes?

.
Thanks!!

robs

Canon EOS R6 Mk II

09/28/2009 05:42:32 PM · #6

Either of the 1 or 2 580's or 430's can be the off camera slave (as well as 550, 420 and some others but I never played with them. The master needs to be a 580 or a 550 - not sure past that but I know a 430/420 will not so it. The STE2 thingi replaces the 580/550 on the camera - although from memory it has less groups then the flashes on camera.

Valdo

Canon EOS-40D

Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di for Canon

09/28/2009 05:46:43 PM · #7

Les,

Option 1 question a) your will need both flashes to be the same brand (i.e. Canon, Sigma). If you go for Canon you need at least one 580ex or 580exII since those can act as Masters (triggers) for the second flash could be another 580ex(II) or 550ex, 430ex.

Option 2 question b) the ST-E2 will only control Canon flashes.

Note: Using canon flashes (in any of those options) will give you the option of using high-speed sync and it might be a good idea if you are shooting against the sunset. Normally the Canon 40D syncs at 1/200-50s, a bit slow if the background is too bright. Other brands have similar capabilities but can't talk from experience there.

Note 2: Even though the ST-E2 is quite handy, nowadays the sensors and controls of the 580's are way better both in reliability and functionality. For example if you don't trust E-TTL you may control the off-camera flash in "manual" from the master instead of walking to your flash, with the ST-E2 is either E-TTL (and ratios) or just trigger (making you walk to adjust the other flash manually).

LVicari

Canon EOS-50D

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

09/28/2009 05:56:33 PM · #8

You will find the right combination. Once you start with flash you won't stop! I have found it addictive and adds a whole new set of possibilities to your artistry! Have fun.

BTW if you rent the flashes, then rent the transmitter and receiver. It will save you some aggrivation. pLus you will be free to move those flashes around as you wish.

MattO

Nikon D4

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II

09/28/2009 07:58:56 PM · #9

Make sure you don't rely too much on Canon's master/slave setups for remote firing. Its line of sight and limited in distance especially outdoors. Indoors in smaller rooms it is fairly consistent, but even sitting next to each other if they can't see the red part of the flash they won't fire. I've been frustrated too many times with the ST-E2 and the master slave setup from canon flashes. that is why I own the cybersyncs.

matt

senor_kasper

Nikon D800

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8D IF-ED

09/28/2009 08:14:09 PM · #10

Originally posted by MattO:

...... I'd also suggest gelling them to match the wb of the sun, otherwise they will be very flashy white, with a warm sunset behind them. ....

Regardless of how you end up triggering your flash(es) you should not overlook the above piece of advice. Your picture will look very strange if you have a disconnect between the color temperature of the background and that of the subjects.

Olympus 12-100mm f/4.0 M.Zuiko ED IS PRO

09/28/2009 08:31:18 PM · #11

Originally posted by senor_kasper:

Originally posted by MattO:
...... I'd also suggest gelling them to match the wb of the sun, otherwise they will be very flashy white, with a warm sunset behind them. ....

Regardless of how you end up triggering your flash(es) you should not overlook the above piece of advice. Your picture will look very strange if you have a disconnect between the color temperature of the background and that of the subjects.

Thanks...How does one go about doing that?

LevT

Olympus OM-1

09/28/2009 08:35:55 PM · #12

Originally posted by AperturePriority:

Thanks...How does one go about doing that?

gel

LVicari

Canon EOS-50D

Canon EF 24-105mm f/4.0L IS

09/28/2009 08:36:39 PM · #13

Originally posted by AperturePriority:

Originally posted by senor_kasper:

Originally posted by MattO:
...... I'd also suggest gelling them to match the wb of the sun, otherwise they will be very flashy white, with a warm sunset behind them. ....

Regardless of how you end up triggering your flash(es) you should not overlook the above piece of advice. Your picture will look very strange if you have a disconnect between the color temperature of the background and that of the subjects.

Thanks...How does one go about doing that?

You need to buy a set of gels from your camera store and put them on the flash. Usually you would get 1/4 CTO or 1/2 CTO to warm the skin tones or you could do it in PS.

THere are plenty online options for gels.

MattO

Nikon D4

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR II

09/28/2009 08:39:23 PM · #14

Originally posted by AperturePriority:

When you go to the camera store ask for a Gel Sample pack, they usually give them away for free, but may charge for them. The samples are the right size to put in front of a speedlight. Pick up some gaffers tape as well to secure them without leaving residue on your rented flash. Every photographer should have a roll of gaffers tape in his/her bag.

If they don't have a sample pack you can get, ask to buy an individual gel 8x10 sheet, pick up a 1/4 CTO and 1/2 CTO and you should be good to go to match the sunset. Cut small strips from it and attach with the gaffers tape you picked up.

Matt

Message edited by author 2009-09-28 20:45:57.