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05/16/2007 10:32:31 PM · #1 |
I was looking this picture  and many others and I was wondering how to achieve this. photographs are very sharp and colorful and DOF is perfect..Similarly I have seen an entire object in the water droplet along with the sharpness in the near by entities.
Does it have to do anything with lens? or some kind of trick?
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05/17/2007 10:35:43 AM · #2 |
bump!!! any one?? :):)
I am trying to take picture like this but no luck :( |
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05/17/2007 10:52:33 AM · #3 |
Did you check the photographer's comments underneath the image? There's a pretty complete breakdown of how they did it.
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05/17/2007 11:10:51 AM · #4 |
| To take images like this you need the appropriate lens. The photographer used a 105 macro lens - great up close clarity and shallow DOF. The photographer adjusted the DOF by adjusting the apeture. The rest of the details are well described in the photogs notes. |
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05/17/2007 11:17:36 AM · #5 |
Here's one my attempt:
I just used a small aperture number (which means it's wide open), put it in macro mode, and found a distance where the image in the drop was in focus.
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05/17/2007 11:28:26 AM · #6 |
give a shout to  banmorn...he's been doing this sort of thing for years.
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05/17/2007 12:25:37 PM · #7 |
You accomplish this by trial and error at first, and then experience comes into play and you start to get it right more often and more easily. You have basically two variables you are dealing with, assuming you only have one macro lens. If you have more than one macro lens, that's a third variable but it's less significant.
The two variables that count are aperture and point-of-focus. The larger your aperture, the shallower is your depth of field. You have less depth of field at f/2.8 (large aperture) than you do at f/22 (small aperture). You can do a pretty good job, if you have a tripod, just by setting up the shot and shooting it at every aperture your lens has, and then studying them all and choosing the best one.
The other variable, point-of-focus, is a little more complicated. Basically, at any given aperture, the DOF will extend from 1/3 in front of the point of focus to 2/3 behind it. In other words, if your DOF is 6 inches, that's 2 inches in front of the focal point and 4 inches behind it. So if you find that focusing directly on the subject (or a particular part of it) is giving you too much BG in focus, you can shift your focal point in front of the object a bit and the background will go more OOF while the object will still be in the range of acceptable focus. But this is REALLY tricky in extreme macro work, where DOF is measured in very small increments. It's a more useful technique in "near-object shooting" as opposed to macro shooting.
Another factor, incidentally, is the magnification/size at which the image will be viewed. I'm sure you've noticed things seem sharper in thumbnails than in 16x20 prints up close, but if you step across the room to view the 16x20 from a distance it looks sharper again? Check out the apparent sharpness of the BG house in Levyj's image in the thumb vs the 640-pixel version it links to.
R.
Message edited by author 2007-05-17 12:26:47.
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05/17/2007 08:31:36 PM · #8 |
| Thank you so much for all the responses. So the deal is that I would need to go for a macro lens that would be say 100mm canon or similar and do experiment. I will try it out and send you guys message :) |
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05/17/2007 09:00:50 PM · #9 |
Originally posted by pgirish007:
I will try it out and send you guys message :) |
Cool. Send me a line too :)
You have a nice Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 lens. You can try to get a closeup filter for it. I've seen really nice bokeh shots with that one and bug macros too. Lookup the Hoya and Canon 500D for more info and sample shots. Oh and, the FStop isn't the only setting that affects the OOF bokeh look, the distance between the object and background also makes the difference.
Message edited by author 2007-05-17 21:02:26. |
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