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02/15/2005 01:05:14 PM · #26 |
How about just getting a monopod or tripod?
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02/15/2005 01:16:31 PM · #27 |
Wow you have gotten some great info. Is your body swaying any? I know sometimes I have a hard time when I'm really focusing my attention on something and looking through the viewfinder it kind of makes my balance a little wonky. It may not be your hands but your whole body moving slightly, in that case the bracing and making sure your standing solidly should help. Also maybe just being aware that you are swaying may help.
HTH, Melissa
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02/15/2005 01:41:58 PM · #28 |
As a former Marine, we learned to shoot a rifle, using the word BRASS, Breathe, Relax, Aim, Slack, Squeeze. Also try using your timer, set it for 2 seconds.
Frank |
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02/15/2005 01:48:01 PM · #29 |
| I was trying to find the link but can't right now...I saw a brace/belt you can wear that has a holster in front that you stand your monopod into to help support it. Similiar to the flag carriers use in parades and such. If I find the link I'll edit. |
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02/15/2005 01:51:14 PM · #30 |
Originally posted by nsbca7:
Originally posted by riot:
Surprised nobody's mentioned the relation between shutter speed and the focal length of your lens... you generally want a shutter speed at least one faster than the focal length of your lens in millimetres for handholding to avoid shake.
For instance, if you're using a 24mm lens, you want at least 1/30th of a second shutter speed, and ideally 1/60th... similarly for a 300mm telephoto you'd use at least 1/300th of a second, ideally 1/600th. |
But we don't always have that option is the point of the thread. |
Why not, exactly? All you need to know is the approximate 35mm focal length equivalent of your lens, no matter how cheap and simple your point-and-shoot camera is. If it has zoom, all you need to know is the 35mm equivalent focal length at both ends of the zoom, and you can estimate what your current zoom's equivalent is at any time - or just learn by trial and error what the slowest shutter speeds are that you can use without blurring.
My point was that i was surprised nobody had mentioned the relation between different focal length (or rather field of view) and the camera shake produced (although by now lots of people have reiterated my original point).
Afterthought: Did i misunderstand, and were you suggesting that not everyone has the option of setting their shutter speed manually? |
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02/15/2005 02:00:44 PM · #31 |
I know this sounds to simple to be true but it is a good guide:
Take your hand and place it on a flat surface like a desk, car roof or hood and if you out in nature, up against a tree or even flat ground.
1. Place finger tips, all five, on a surface.
2. Place the finger tips on the surface with just enough force to feel the surface. Feather lite touch.
3. If you hand or finger tips don't shack - you should be able to get away with a 1/15 and some time lower SS.
4. If your hand or finger tips shake lightly - min. 1/30 and up SS.
5. If your hand or finger tips shake visibly - min. 1/60 and up SS.
6. If you hand or finger tips shake to the point they leave the surface [bouncing] then nothing lower than 1/100 SS.
This is just a rule I use because I have some nerve damage in my arm from a ulnar nerve and 2 ruptured disk in my neck that causes my nerves to act up sometimes.
You can however use the sting tripod with your feet since the feet stay firm and it will help. Strap around my neck only makes it worse because of the disk problems. |
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02/15/2005 02:23:51 PM · #32 |
One point that hasn't been covered is triangulation. To get a steady shot use a tripod and a cable release. If you can't then aproximate one. You have two feet, and then you need to find that third point of support. Leaning on a post or in a door way will give you that third leg. If there is nothing around to lean on get your feet shoulder-width apart, front foot forward, pointing at what you are shooting at. The back leg should be pointed off at a near 90 degree angle from your other foot, sholder width back from the front. It sounds complicated, but it isn't, just get your footing as stable as you can, and get as many of the muscles of your legs involved in minimizing leg sway. Think of a surfer on his board and adopt that position.
One hand on the front of the lens, keeping as much of your arm in contact with your ribs as possible. Other hand on the shutter with that elbow locked against your chest.Don't strain them into position,just stay loose and relaxed. Now that BRASS thing will work wonders. |
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02/15/2005 02:26:38 PM · #33 |
Another simple tip is use a battery grip...it helps balance the lens and gives you a bit more weight.
Steve |
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02/15/2005 02:46:54 PM · #34 |
Bob's handy tip:
When I REALLY need to be steady, I notice when my heartbeats occur, and make sure I shoot in between beats.
I do notice that my hands will move slightly with each heartbeat. |
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02/15/2005 03:04:29 PM · #35 |
Originally posted by caba:
Also try using your timer, set it for 2 seconds |
Good tip :)
I found this article helpful as well
Long Handheld Exposures |
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02/15/2005 08:09:35 PM · #36 |
Thanks guys, this was some wonderful help! I'll keep in mind the BRASS tip, as well as all the others about stance and setting the timer for 2 seconds.
Great help, I really appriciate it! :) |
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02/15/2005 08:19:22 PM · #37 |
My tip for keeping the camera steady ... don't! LOL
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02/16/2005 11:11:49 AM · #38 |
Originally posted by riot:
Originally posted by nsbca7:
Originally posted by riot:
Surprised nobody's mentioned the relation between shutter speed and the focal length of your lens... you generally want a shutter speed at least one faster than the focal length of your lens in millimetres for handholding to avoid shake.
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But we don't always have that option is the point of the thread. |
Why not, exactly? All you need to know is the approximate 35mm focal length equivalent of your lens, no matter how cheap and simple your point-and-shoot camera is. If it has zoom, all you need to know is the 35mm equivalent focal length at both ends of the zoom, and you can estimate what your current zoom's equivalent is at any time - or just learn by trial and error what the slowest shutter speeds are that you can use without blurring.
Afterthought: Did i misunderstand, and were you suggesting that not everyone has the option of setting their shutter speed manually? |
Yes and no. No - that everyone does not have the option of setting their shutter speed manually. This may be true, but that was not my point.
My point was that often times we get in low-light situations where we need to make the shot as it is without using flash or uping the ISO level (introduces noise). We don't alway have a tripod or mono-pod in hand and don't always have the time to set them up.
The shutter speed/focal length thing is a guideline (not a rule) that we often find ourselves going well beyond. Learning good technique for reducing camera shake will not only help when we find ourselves in such situations, but will help us capture sharper images even when we do have the luxury of shooting at faster shutter speeds.
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02/16/2005 12:41:13 PM · #39 |
When my Dad got older, his hands started shaking quite a bit. He really wanted to keep shooting pix, so as an engineer, this was a challenge to overcome. His solution was to bolt a 1/4" thick plate of lead to the bottom of the camera (to the tripod mount hole). The lead plate weighed probably at least 3~4 pounds... it about tripled the weight of the camera.
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02/16/2005 12:47:29 PM · #40 |
Originally posted by alanbataar:
When my Dad got older, his hands started shaking quite a bit. He really wanted to keep shooting pix, so as an engineer, this was a challenge to overcome. His solution was to bolt a 1/4" thick plate of lead to the bottom of the camera (to the tripod mount hole). The lead plate weighed probably at least 3~4 pounds... it about tripled the weight of the camera. |
Should be about equivalent to using my 1Ds.
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02/22/2005 01:24:44 PM · #41 |
| No one has mentioned a bean bag. My wife made me one filled with flax seed so it is pretty light and easy to carry. Often there is something I can set the bean bag on and then set my camera on the bean bag. It allows the camera position to be infinitely adjusted and then I use self-timer when I want a really crisp shot. In addition, the flax-filled bean bag can be heated up in the microwave and then used as a heating pad. |
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02/22/2005 01:44:24 PM · #42 |
I have a 100-400mm Canon lens. This lens on my rebel is a 160-640mm. Yes the lens does have IS but face the fact 640mm is a long lens to be handholding.
I was having a lot of trouble getting really sharp pictures. I tried all the tricks...tuck your arms in, hold the lens tight to your face, breath slow and take a picture on exhale, role your thumb on the shutter release don't push it, Lean against something or go down on one knee... etc.... etc.....
The only thing that I found that worked for me was, I bought a good quality Manfrotto tripod with a ball head and I got a remote shutter release (cable release). These to things made more of a difference then all the other tricks I ever heard. Finally nice pictures....
Message edited by author 2005-02-22 13:48:44. |
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02/22/2005 02:23:36 PM · #43 |
| I use a small bean bag when I can't get a tripod someplace. it's nice I just keep it in the camera bag and pull it out when I need it |
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02/22/2005 09:39:56 PM · #44 |
Just wondering, if you try to hold any object still, do your hands shake? If so you might have medical conditions that might have to be evaluated. If you mainly shake with shooting pictures, never mind.
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02/25/2005 11:03:42 PM · #45 |
I read an article about some techniques to help this.
Two of the tricks that hadn't been mentioned already I remember from it:
- with your two hands holding the camera, gently apply force in opposite directions, almost like you are trying to twist the camera in half. by doing so you can cancel out some of the small muscle/heartbeak shake that occurs.
- your stance is important. Don't stand with a locked knee. Try different stances that give the best results. For some people standing with one foot in front of the other(as though in mid stride) works best. Some standing with feet apart, knees bent slightly work best. Locked knees & feet together guarantees you'll sway at least a little. As mentioned by others bracing on solider things then you can help.
- some other people mentioned the breathing, lastly combined with the opposing force trick, I always read you take a breath, exhale half way and hold it, then shoot. I think this is a sniper shooting technique.
speaking of snipers...the elbow sling brace is used by snipers. So maybe you can find something like that in shooting/hunting goods places. |
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02/25/2005 11:12:08 PM · #46 |
this is my first time hearing any of this info thanks for sharing definatly come in hand
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12/26/2005 07:31:53 PM · #47 |
I think you have to be 1/200 to get decent focus, anything below that always seems worse. I cant believe people can do 1/30 or 1/60 without shake! I guess it depends on the situation, but its good if you are managing that because I cant no matter what I do.
Im going to buy a mini tripod :) Its also especially hard to keep still when bending down and I always seem to be in awkward positions like this (like close up shots and abstract) so thats ideal for me.
PS: I also put my strap round my neck and full stretch it which helps, or full stretch it down on my chest/stomach and guessimate! :) (which i dont think has ever worked) |
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12/26/2005 07:39:36 PM · #48 |
i also once shot a dog, but i did not have the camera in my hand that time, dog did all the shaking.
just kidding,
Originally posted by K_Pugh:
i havn't got the steadiest hands in the world, in fact they shake quite a bit (i don't drink or smoke or do drugs, i just have shakey hands lol)... anyway, mostly i go down the beach to shoot my dog (not with a 12 bore, with my camera) and 99% of the time i crouch down for a better perspective of the dog at his level but i find it keeps the camera steady even at longer shutter speeds when i'm practicing my panning.
basically i crouch down, left leg in from of the right, arms tucked in although i keep my left arm resting on my left leg, looking through the viewfinder and left hand under the lense. I find keeping my right knee off the ground saves me getting dirty, but also provides me with more rotation!
That might help you, depending on what you're shooting. |
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01/03/2006 03:25:49 PM · #49 |
Originally posted by eyeronik:
I think you have to be 1/200 to get decent focus, anything below that always seems worse. I cant believe people can do 1/30 or 1/60 without shake! I guess it depends on the situation, but its good if you are managing that because I cant no matter what I do.
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Wow thread necromancy. :)
I almost reposted what I originally posted, good thing I read the thread.
Anyway, it depends on the situation, and the focal length especially. I can't do 1/30 with any sharpness at 300mm, but I bet I can do ok with say, 50mm if the lighting is decent.
Also I found I got better about it over time, and with my long telephoto, I found that gripping the lens like you would binoculars works better for me then cradling the lens from underneath. YMMV.
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01/03/2006 03:44:35 PM · #50 |
This string tripod is a fun little gadget that's easy to make. I have used it with some success in places where they don't allow tripods, plus you can carry it in your pocket.
Dave
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