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DPChallenge Forums >> Tips, Tricks, and Q&A >> Lighting a person without using flash or strobes
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08/02/2016 12:39:12 PM · #1
Hey all

I have a great new model to work with, who is very photogenic and willing to be a subject. Only one problem: they can get a terrific migraine from sudden light bursts, like even just seeing a lightning strike can result in a migraine the following day. Their condition is similar to the way seizures in an epiletic can be triggered by flashing lights.

Of course ambient light is always an option, but sometimes I'll want to do studio work with them. I am already fond of using shoot-through umbrellas, and my strobes can be set to modelling so there are no flashes. I'll probably have to make good use of reflectors for fill light.

Has anyone else had similar experiences with this? Any other non-flashy ideas that may work?
08/02/2016 12:47:32 PM · #2
Well, besides lights that flash and those which are "always on" you don't have too many other options. Maybe install a skylight or windows? Get one of those Sony cameras with ISO 100,000 and shoot in the dark? Sorry I don't have any actually practical ideas (other than using reflectors, as you already mentioned), but at least this will bump the thread ...
08/02/2016 01:04:41 PM · #3
I almost always prefer natural lighted portraits (although I have used flash for a special affect). A window with soft light works well as does outside in a good location. The light quality is the key. I have several rooms in my home where I use window light depending on the time of the day. One room is long and narrow and has just one window on one end. This is good light for key lighting with the remainder of the room dark. Hope this helps a little bit.
08/02/2016 01:29:27 PM · #4
Originally posted by grahamgator:

I almost always prefer natural lighted portraits (although I have used flash for a special affect). A window with soft light works well as does outside in a good location. The light quality is the key. I have several rooms in my home where I use window light depending on the time of the day. One room is long and narrow and has just one window on one end. This is good light for key lighting with the remainder of the room dark. Hope this helps a little bit.


Yep, ambient light is always a huge fave of mine, part of the reason why I bought my house is because it has huge windows and fantastic light! For the locale in which I next plan to use them, lighting won't be an issue so much there...it's more studio stuff, when I may want to freeze them in a leap or something, that I am concerned about. Maybe I should just get a bunch of really cheap reflectors and stands :-)
08/02/2016 11:25:04 PM · #5
I've been curious about the LED bank lights that people are using for video work. I haven't really looked into it, so I don't have any links. But it seems like an interesting option.
08/03/2016 12:41:06 AM · #6
Originally posted by vawendy:

I've been curious about the LED bank lights that people are using for video work. I haven't really looked into it, so I don't have any links. But it seems like an interesting option.

I think you can also make your own pretty easily -- I'm almost sure I've seen instructions somewhere ... I know you can also get LEDs which are embedded in plastic strips, which you can drape into unusual shapes or tack into position.

ETA: I can't believe I found it that fast ...! Not exactly what you want, but close ... :-)

//www.picturecorrect.com/tips/how-to-achieve-multiple-catchlights-in-a-portrait-subjects-eyes/

Message edited by author 2016-08-03 00:45:40.
08/03/2016 01:29:52 AM · #7
Susan, to "freeze" someone in a leap requires a really fast shutter, which requires a lot of light. I have used continuous light, as well as LED panels, and in a studio setting, they're not nearly enough light to support the shutter speed. You'll get a very dark photo, or a lot of noise from high ISO. The only way you'll get this particular model while leaping is in natural daylight.
08/03/2016 07:12:59 AM · #8
Originally posted by tanguera:

Susan, to "freeze" someone in a leap requires a really fast shutter, which requires a lot of light. I have used continuous light, as well as LED panels, and in a studio setting, they're not nearly enough light to support the shutter speed. You'll get a very dark photo, or a lot of noise from high ISO. The only way you'll get this particular model while leaping is in natural daylight.


Yeah, pretty much what I thought...well will just have to find other uses for him :-)

Thanks for the link Paul, will look at it later.
08/03/2016 08:57:53 AM · #9
window light is the way to go combined with a wide aperture or take them outside and use a reflector.

08/03/2016 02:02:39 PM · #10
I have used a 6 in 1 reflector but just used the soft white side.. but window light is my favorite or outside
08/03/2016 03:56:30 PM · #11
Ok, so pretty much will have to go with how I usually shoot anyway *grin* Thanks everyone for feedback!

Susan
08/05/2016 09:50:09 PM · #12
Do you know if they would have the same issue when using strobes with natural light? If the natural light is your main light and you are using the strobe as fill, it shouldn't be near as noticeable, assuming of course you are shooting in daylight with strong natural light.

String natural light will work for you freezing motion case as well of course, but I don't think this is attainable in a studio with constant lights (not easily anyway).
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