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DPChallenge Forums >> Hardware and Software >> I need a macro lens but am overwhelmed by info....
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07/15/2011 11:32:27 PM · #1
That was a good choice. That lens will break the ice when you seem to be thinking that "there's nothing out there worth shooting today". The world gets a lot larger when you start looking at the details, and searching for tiny little patches of light and dark and color. Enjoy, and show us some pix soon.
07/15/2011 05:50:39 PM · #2
Originally posted by supanova:

Yay!

I have a Macro Lens!

I have searched around for ages and finally found a second hand 60mm Nikkor.
I have played with it briefly, I think I am going love Macro photography.
I mean...WOW...It is certainly different from any other lens but it is sooooo cool. I cant wait to get an entry into the macro without bugs challenge.
I only hope that I get a chance to as I am working now and very tired in the daytime.

But...Yay ;-)


Now slap some extension tubes on it!
07/15/2011 04:35:37 AM · #3
Yay!

I have a Macro Lens!

I have searched around for ages and finally found a second hand 60mm Nikkor.
I have played with it briefly, I think I am going love Macro photography.
I mean...WOW...It is certainly different from any other lens but it is sooooo cool. I cant wait to get an entry into the macro without bugs challenge.
I only hope that I get a chance to as I am working now and very tired in the daytime.

But...Yay ;-)
07/14/2011 06:51:20 AM · #4
Tamron 90mm f2.8 and Nikon 50mm f1.8 with reversal ring. Both are great!
07/14/2011 06:44:27 AM · #5
I have to add my self to the ongoing list of people... (105 2.8 VR) Love it!!
07/14/2011 02:31:17 AM · #6
Originally posted by Cory:

One question I'd like to know.... I suspect I know the answer, but.......

Does the DOF change with focal length @ 1:1 like it does on "regular" lenses?

Essentially, if I'm shooting max magnification - will I see significantly more DOF on the shorter lenses?


Originally posted by Wikipedia DoF:


When the subject distance s approaches the focal length, using the formulas given above can result in significant errors. For close-up work, the hyperfocal distance has little applicability, and it usually is more convenient to express DOF in terms of image magnification. Let m be the magnification; when the subject distance is small in comparison with the hyperfocal distance,

DOF = 2Nc((m+1)/(m^2)),

so that for a given magnification, DOF is independent of focal length. Stated otherwise, for the same subject magnification, at the same f-number, all focal lengths used on a given image format give approximately the same DOF. This statement is true only when the subject distance is small in comparison with the hyperfocal distance, however.

Wiki article

Explanation for terms is provided in article.

Message edited by author 2011-07-14 02:34:18.
07/14/2011 02:05:37 AM · #7
One question I'd like to know.... I suspect I know the answer, but.......

Does the DOF change with focal length @ 1:1 like it does on "regular" lenses?

Essentially, if I'm shooting max magnification - will I see significantly more DOF on the shorter lenses?
07/14/2011 01:59:24 AM · #8
It looks like this thread should have the answer you are looking for, but to add my two cents:

1. Establish what your budget is, make yourself a short list of possibilities based on that.
2. Remember to use DPC's hardware section to see winning images using any glass that you may be considering! If in doubt, go back to 1.
3. Wait until the latest two macro challenges finish, as the high scoring shots will be fun to study.

Recently, I just picked up a 90mm aftermarket macro in my budget range using rules 1. and 2. I am very pleased with my decision! It was money well spent (or saved, depending on viewpoint.)

07/13/2011 11:38:43 PM · #9
Originally posted by TheDruid:

Originally posted by NikonJeb:

LOVE my 105 2.8 VR!!!!!!

ditto


Max aperture goes F56 (that's macro lens). 1:1 subject focusing, size changes automatically. merging of multiple focused section shots, a big headache. but 105vr still my favorite out of 60nano, siggy and tammy. -ditto-
07/13/2011 10:32:43 PM · #10
I seem to do all right with the older manual Micro Nikkors. I have a couple of the 55 f3.5's both converted to Ai, and one 55 f2.8 Ai. I also have the 105 f2.8 Ai.
When shooting macro up close, you can move 1/2 mm and completely change the focal point, so I don't worry about them being manual focus, just move in and out a little to get focused.
I have found that the 55 is best for hand holding when shooting flowers and other things that you can get close to, because the shorter focal length allows slower shutter speeds without getting too much motion blur. The longer 105 is great for bugs and things that are shy. It's also an excellent lens for portraits if you want to be back a bit from the subject. Both are super sharp if you keep the camera still.
I use them with extension tubes as well to get even closer. The 55's go to 1/2 life size, then with the extension tube to 1/1 magnification ratio.
If you find an older manual one, be sure that it is an "Ai" model, or has been modified to the "Ai" configuration. The Ai models will safely fit on your camera, but the "NON Ai " version may damage a little lever next to the lens mount of your camera.
One of the nice things about the Nikon system is that you can use the old manual focus glass back to the mid 70's on the new models if you want.
You can find the 55's on eBay for less than $100 most of the time if you search for "55mm f (3.5 or 2.8) Micro Nikkor.
A last remark though, if you use the older manual lenses, you will have to shoot without a meter, just look at the results in the LCD and adjust. The D7000 and the pro Nikon bodies can meter with them.
Wishing you the best in your quest for the glass that makes you happiest.
07/13/2011 10:18:51 PM · #11
Originally posted by NikonJeb:

LOVE my 105 2.8 VR!!!!!!

ditto
07/13/2011 10:17:05 PM · #12
Originally posted by GeneralE:

It seems intuitive to me that the ultimate comparison would be how large the subject ends up when printed at some standard resolution (e.g. 300dpi).


Yes sir, that would compare apples to apples.
07/13/2011 10:11:08 PM · #13
Originally posted by kirbic:

Originally posted by james_so:

Does using a crop sensor change the macro ratio of a lens in a similar way to which it affects the [equivalent] focal length?


No, it does not. It crops the image, though, so at 1:1 you can fit in an object about 23mm long across the width of the frame, whereas on a 35mm camera you could fit a 36mm object. That said, here's a thought exercise:
1.) Shoot the same object with each camera at 1:1
2.) Blow up the resulting images to 240x360mm(about 9.5x14 inches)

The total magnification on the shot taken with the APS-C camera will be 360mm/23mm = 15.65
The total magnification on the shot taken with the 35mm camera will be 360mm/36mm = 10.00

In other words, the APS-C camera appears to give more magnification (and actually does, for the same print size), but the magnification from object to image on sensor is the same.

When you printing the image, resolution becomses relevant, and it seems to me that it's not only the size of the image projected onto the sensor, but also on the number of pixels on the sensor (pixel density). It seems intuitive to me that the ultimate comparison would be how large the subject ends up when printed at some standard resolution (e.g. 300dpi).
07/13/2011 09:55:12 PM · #14
Originally posted by spiritualspatula:

Originally posted by mike_311:

hijack alert...

when using a cheap reversing ring how does one control the aperture of the lens?


Using the aperture control ring, if it has it. If it doesn't... you can wedge it open by operating the lever manually and sticking a piece of paper or something into it. Obviously the wedging method is not so accurate.

ETA: Oh yeah forgot those Canon's have no lever.... here's the go around for that...
"there's no aperture lever on Canon lenses and as the electrical contacts are broken by mounting the lens backward the only way to stop down is to use the depth of field preview button to close the aperture, and then with the button held down remove the lens. The aperture should remain stopped down."


thank you that worked. now to get a ring...
07/13/2011 08:47:11 PM · #15
Originally posted by mike_311:

hijack alert...

when using a cheap reversing ring how does one control the aperture of the lens?


Bubble gum.

R.
07/13/2011 08:46:49 PM · #16
Originally posted by mike_311:

hijack alert...

when using a cheap reversing ring how does one control the aperture of the lens?


Using the aperture control ring, if it has it. If it doesn't... you can wedge it open by operating the lever manually and sticking a piece of paper or something into it. Obviously the wedging method is not so accurate.

ETA: Oh yeah forgot those Canon's have no lever.... here's the go around for that...
"there's no aperture lever on Canon lenses and as the electrical contacts are broken by mounting the lens backward the only way to stop down is to use the depth of field preview button to close the aperture, and then with the button held down remove the lens. The aperture should remain stopped down."

Message edited by author 2011-07-13 20:49:20.
07/13/2011 08:39:05 PM · #17
hijack alert...

when using a cheap reversing ring how does one control the aperture of the lens?
07/13/2011 08:29:50 PM · #18
Originally posted by james_so:

Does using a crop sensor change the macro ratio of a lens in a similar way to which it affects the [equivalent] focal length?


No, it does not. It crops the image, though, so at 1:1 you can fit in an object about 23mm long across the width of the frame, whereas on a 35mm camera you could fit a 36mm object. That said, here's a thought exercise:
1.) Shoot the same object with each camera at 1:1
2.) Blow up the resulting images to 240x360mm(about 9.5x14 inches)

The total magnification on the shot taken with the APS-C camera will be 360mm/23mm = 15.65
The total magnification on the shot taken with the 35mm camera will be 360mm/36mm = 10.00

In other words, the APS-C camera appears to give more magnification (and actually does, for the same print size), but the magnification from object to image on sensor is the same.

Message edited by author 2011-07-13 20:30:25.
07/13/2011 07:23:49 PM · #19
Does using a crop sensor change the macro ratio of a lens in a similar way to which it affects the [equivalent] focal length?
07/13/2011 06:55:58 PM · #20
True macro lenses are basically an evolutionary step away from copy lenses, with which you (GeneralE) are presumably very familiar. They're characterized by an extremely flat field and absolute edge to edge sharpness, because their heritage is the copying of documents and artwork for reprographics...

R.
07/13/2011 04:59:35 PM · #21
Originally posted by kirbic:

Optically, all the add-on close-up lens is doing is allowing the lens behind it to focus closer. It's like reading glasses for your camera lens.

Thanks -- presbyopia is a condition with which I'm all too familiar ... :-(
07/13/2011 04:35:05 PM · #22
Optically, all the add-on close-up lens is doing is allowing the lens behind it to focus closer. It's like reading glasses for your camera lens. Literally. Pun intended.
The optical design of macro lenses is as varied as the design of other specialty lenses. There are few, if any common traits. That's especially true because lenses on cameras with small sensors yield macro-like images at magnifications as small as 1:5.
07/13/2011 03:51:22 PM · #23
I'm not so concerned with the definition, but with the physical/optical difference between the two types of lenses. There may be none, other than one contains multiple elements and goes on a lensless-SLR body, while the other uses the camera's built-in lens as one component to "build" essentially the same thing as the macro lens.

It seems like the main difference between these and "regular" lenses is that the minimum subject distance is markedly reduced for any given focal length. My 436mm zoom would normally require the subject to be a minimum of five-six feet away to be able to focus; with the adapter lens it can get as close as a foot or so.

But I also have two "macro" settings built-in; with the "SuperMacro" setting I can use the 36mm end of the zoom lens to focus at 0" ... that must be doing something different than the external lenses. :-(
07/13/2011 03:28:18 PM · #24
Originally posted by GeneralE:

Can anyone explain the difference between a "macro" lens and a "close-up" lens?


The traditional definition of "macro" is a magnification equal to or greater than 1:1. In other words, the image of the subject, projected on the sensor, is life size or greater.
Today, that's a horrible definition. It means that if I shoot at 1:1 with my 5D, I can get a subject 1.5 inches long (36mm) in the frame, but if you shoot at 1:1 with your S3 IS, an object only 5.8mm long will fill the frame.
07/13/2011 03:10:08 PM · #25
Can anyone explain the difference between a "macro" lens and a "close-up" lens? I have this Canon 250D 58mm Close Up Lens (the 58mm refers to thread diameter, not focal length), which, along with an adapter, allows my otherwise fixed-lens camera to shoot at maximum zoom (436mm EQ) from about a foot away. Sample (essentially uncropped) images:

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